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One big air bubble in the cooling system could explain all the current symptoms. It is very common to have air trapped in the system on these cars.
First thing to do - Take a deep breath. Second thing to do - Take another deep breath. This will get sorted. I would follow the procedure for burping all the air out of the system before making any rash decisions. |
Thanks for that.
The mechanic insists that there's no air in the system, but I'm not convinced yet. |
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I honestly don't know.
But he's a very reputable Porsche guy here in Lawndale CA. He was pretty insistent that there is no air in the system when I asked him earlier today. I was unable to ask him before he closed for the 3 day weekend if he uses a vacuum or not. But what doesn't make sense to me is that if there is a circulation problem as he indicates, why wouldn't the temp go up or it overheat? A second opinion mechanic (a very reputable guy in OC) told me to drive it tomorrow stone cold and not refill the coolant and see what it does. He also suggested a test for hydrocarbons in the coolant. Please weigh in, there are some very kind and knowledgeable people here who do not have skin in this game. Thank you. Rob |
Please help with advice.
Thanks! |
DUde. Drive the car!
That half cup of coolant that came out from the overflow means that the air pocket already passed. When air gets in contact with hot in a closed environment the pressure increase by 1000%. That's gone now - you should now see the coolant level 3.24mm lower than it was before and that's all there is to it. RE vacuum; "all" mechanics (in-the-world) use vacuum to refill. Even the cheapest shop you can find in the middle of china use vacuum refill. How the hell would it work otherwise. Come on guys... As per advice: "drive it tomorrow stone cold and not refill the coolant and see what it does" My advice: "drive it EVERYDAY and have fun" :cheers: |
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I am beginning to believe that the water pump impeller melted or broke based on the fact that there is a fine black powder in the bottom of the coolant tank now that it's cooled off overnight and is only about 1/3 full.
Do I try bleeding it first? What do I do? It's become a money pit and I think that I may have a clogged cooling system as the mechanic suspects from the meltdown. Any advice? Junkers will give me about $1500 for the car. Is it worth putting the kind of $$ into it to see what's going on? It's a 2002 with 145k that was run while completely overheated. It seems to me that even if I do get the coolant thing sorted out, are there cracked heads or cylinders in my future? Is this the type of scenario where the temp gauge will not register a problem as going above 190 but if there is no circulation, the temp is actually a lot hotter and then that is causing the overflow to dump coolant once it gets hot? I'm trying to stay logical and reasoned without losing my mind here. |
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I was double checking everything before I went on track -- even undid the water cap and screwed it back on. As I came off track -- temperature started to rise -- and it was peeing all over the paddock, right in front of the right rear tire. I thought my weekend was shot. Water pump for sure. NOPE -- dummy me I had cross threaded the screw on cap. Found a jug, filled it with water. Opened the pressure vent, and carefully put the cap back on. Went out and ran the next session, took it a little easy -- no issues ever again. Don't give up on things... Just be diligent and work through some of the kinks... Mike |
There is a possibility the residue in the tank is from the previous water pump. Did you see the removed pump? I don't think your WP saw high enough temps to melt or cause the impeller to fail since they are designed to operate in conditions to 220 deg. Once the system lost pressure steam is only ~212 deg. Yes the cylinders no doubt saw much higher temps but with no coolant transferring that heat, the entire block would have to be heated to the failure point of the impeller. If that had happened I don't think your engine would be running now. The caveat to this is, was there collateral damage to the pump when the alternator failed? Since the car appears to not be overheating while driving then the simplest step is bleed and drive again.
However if this was my car, in order to have any confidence in it, I'd pull the WP and check it's condition. if good, a new gasket and a new thermostat and you can have some confidence that your coolant circulating system is at least functional. If bad then the next steps can be considered to find the parts. |
Sorry if this is overly obvious, but has a total system flush been done? I would suggest a flush, drive a while, maybe flush again, and see where you stand. Oh, and yes, get the new cap. I lost coolant about a year ago due to a bad cap (and I would have sworn it was something more serious).
Best wishes. |
Thanks guys!
I am encouraged. I just bled the system and then drove it up and down a very steep canyon road. It's sitting in the garage now and only let out a few drops! from the overflow. I'm going to let it cool down for a few hours and then drive it again. Temp gauge stayed right around 190 which was good. I need to change the oil from the meltdown tonight, which I have not done yet. I also will also change out the water pump and thermostat as soon as I can swing it. I will also need to flush the whole system. I like the idea of multiple flushes, but not $120 in coolant again (still cheap insurance) And yes, I did see the old pump when it was removed and all of the vanes were intact. But so far, so good! This is a new cap as of yesterday. I read on here to drive for a few days with the bleeder valve open. Is that a good idea? One guy said that's what they do when they race Boxsters. I'm just a daily driver guy, though. This board is a lifesaver and I'm beginning to think that my mechanic is a "Worst case scenario" thinker. He's right in the fact that he doesn't cut corners and does lay out all possibilities though. I LOVE my Boxster and need to listen to the warnings from now on. |
Good news! BUT get that oil out of there before you drive again!!! That oil has done a marvelous job but should be changed out ASAP since I'm sure it's suffered from Thermal Breakdown and if any engine deserves it I think this one qualifies. And yes leave the bleeder open and the cover off and see if you can identify where the coolant is leaking from. Congratulations on maintaining sanity/
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Thanks Monty!
We know for sure that the coolant was coming from the overflow. The mechanic had it on the lift yesterday and showed me. I just looked again (OCD) and there are only a few drops on the garage floor. One other question, there's nowhere to get a German oil filter (Hengst is what I like to use on this Sat of a 3 day weeked. I found this at Autozone: STP Oil Filter S8278 - Read Reviews on STP #S8278 I guess it's going to have to do as it's all I can find within a short distance to go pick it up. I think it will hold me over until I change the oil again which will be in way less than 5k just to play it safe. |
Yes I have no doubt it's coming from the overflow. The coolant cap and the purge valve are in the overflow formed into the top of the expansion tank. With the cover off you should be able to open the trunk and see the coolant leaking. Just don't attempt to tighten when leaking!
Do you have a NAPA nearby? I think they carry the Hengst filter but I'd put a WIX/NAPA gold in if they have it. |
Napa is not answering their phone and they close soon.
Oreilly has this Wix: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/wix-5291/filters-16470/oil-filter-16731/oil-filter-12090/oil-filter/57211/4836299/2002/porsche/boxster?q=oil would this be a better choice than the STP one? |
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I'm going to get it and the oil now.
Should I let the oil drain overnight? Does that really make a difference? You have been most kind. Thank you! |
You're welcome! Just let the oil drain for 30 min to an hour.
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Ok thanks!
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