Calling on Master Mechanics… Again.
 

I successfully replaced the chain tensioners on my 2001 Boxster this weekend but the deviation on bank 2 did not get under 6 degrees… What can cause this? Chain? Solenoid? Thanks

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Remember "7 links apart" ? It is very easy when refitting the camshafts (particularly Bank 2) to have the chain slip 1 tooth. You need to use a paint Marker pen on both sprockets and both links. Even so, it is very difficult to check your work on Bank 2.
How did you confirm that Bank 2 Solenoid and Actuator are functioning correctly?
Did you dismantle the Actuator?
Replacing the Tensioner for Bank 2 is quite difficult -access. Did you soak it first?
Check some of the Threads by dporto in 996 Section for "hard reset".
If your Durametric reading is with a cold engine it may be misleading
This could take a while to diagnose. Ask me .........

Wow that looks foreboding
 

Did you do this while the engine was in your car ??

And one more question please, after replacing the tensioners / does the engine still rattle when first started cold...I have always been curious about this

Myself, not even being a YouTube certified mechanic, did similar work on an Audi V8. Rather than just changing the pads, I replace the entire tensioner on both sides. After putting it back together and turning the crank, the link count was off by 1/2 link on one side. Turned out I had the tensioners on the wrong side. They fit and looked identical other than the part number. Any chance you swapped the tensioners?

Gelbster,
Remember "7 links apart" ? It is very easy when refitting the camshafts (particularly Bank 2) to have the chain slip 1 tooth. You need to use a paint Marker pen on both sprockets and both links. - The chain had different color links to line-up with the marks on the cams, I'm positive chain position is not the issue here.

How did you confirm that Bank 2 Solenoid and Actuator are functioning correctly? - I did not confirm the actuators are functioning, that's why I am wondering if these readings are an indication of a failed actuator.

Did you dismantle the Actuator? - No

Replacing the Tensioner for Bank 2 is quite difficult -access. Did you soak it first? - I did not find it anymore difficult and no I did not soak them.
Check some of the Threads by dporto in 996 Section for "hard reset". - Thanks
If your Durametric reading is with a cold engine it may be misleading - The engine was warm.

Pdwight,
Did you do this while the engine was in your car ?? - Yes

And one more question please, after replacing the tensioners / does the engine still rattle when first started cold...I have always been curious about this -The engine starts better and runs better, probably because timing better overall, and it idles smoother. I never seem to have too much rattle during start-up before, maybe a couple seconds.

78F350,
Any chance you swapped the tensioners? - No, if you look closely at the last photo you can see one of the pads has a set of holes for oil feeds. Under that pad is an O-ring that fits between the pad and tensioner. They fit tight and did not come off after I installed them.

Update
 

I tried to activate the solenoids (engine running) with my Durametric and there was no response. I did a hard reset by disconnecting the "+" side cable from the battery and grounding it. Then when I restarted the engine and used the Durametric to activate the solenoids the motor almost stopped when I activated each side. So it seems both solenoids are working. Then I checked the cam deviation and there was no change.

I got similar results when changing out those pads.

https://uniim1.shutterfly.com/ng/ser...520284/enhance

Paul,
Did you go back and try to re-time Bank 1?

I have been contemplating pulling the oil pump on Bank 2 and trying to get the timing a little better. Six degrees at the crank is only three degrees at the cam.

Yes, it's on my going to do someday list.:)

I suspect the real issue is a worn chain and tensioner pad from the IMS to the head.