To me, this is mega
 

About a month ago San Rensho posted the following in response to a first-time oil changer:

This clicked with me as a possible approach to dealing with all the chain noise I was getting on startup and indeed it's solved that problem. About me ... duh!

Yes, I know those that have changed to a spin-on filter get a new anti-drainback valve with every filter change, but I'm staying OE. Will try to monitor how long it takes before I need another canister.

I do still get plenty of revs on a cold start and think that may be a starter problem as much as anything. I'm procrastinating on trying some greasing, but now I'm at least not wincing at the chain clatter.

Part number's in PET (since updated) and my dealer had one in stock.

Have had car for 3.5 years now and on forum since acquiring it and first time to read of this part availability. Thanks San Rensho!

I had been thinking about replacing my old filter cups for a while, but hadn't got around to it. Read your post and just got 3 from Pelican. $25 ea with free ship. (Nearest dealership is about an hour drive.)
Oil Filter Cover Cap 99610702055 - Genuine Porsche - 996-107-020-55 | Pelican Parts
Porsche#996-107-020-55

Good tip - I appreciate you relaying your positive experience with this, Kent.

I also have a bit of chain noise on start-up on my 2001 boxster, so I will look into this as well. Much cheaper to try this than replacing the (three!) hydraulic chain tensioners!

A better idea would be to just can the OEM canister and switch to a spin on full flow filter set up. Problem permanently solved...............

I'm new to Boxsters. When I got my PPI, the mechanic said he thought there was excess oil system pressure caused by an old pressure relief valve. I also have chain clatter on startup. So, it sounds like this is something I need to do.

Just to be sure I understand: The Boxster uses a filter element that inserts into a reusable cannister, and that cannister should be replaced from time-to-time.

Also: Does the engine oil have to be drained to changed the filter? If not, I'll do this myself. If so, I'll have my mechanic change the oil and take care of the cannister/filter at the same time.

I had bad start up chatter. Went away as it warmed up.

My water pump was scraping the side walls and the plastic impellers were worn on the outside edge. Took a while past that to leak. Zero noise when replaced. FYI.

I have startup chatter on my 01 Boxster. Replaced all 3 chain tensioners with new ones when I did some work on my car. I hope to never have to replace the one under the A/C compressor again. New water pump and thermostat at the same time. Also switched to a LN spin on filter.

Startup chatter still there.

Shawn,

Yes, you can remove the oil filter without draining the engine (remove the canister and replace the filter element) but, if you can do that, why do you want to ask your mechanic to change the oil..?

Just buy the plug seal at the same time you buy the filter.

Sorry if I was unclear, but that's exactly why I wouldn't ask my mechanic to do it. If I don't have to drain the oil, I'll take care of the filter and canister myself.

Thanks for the tip!

I'm guessing, but I'd say that it's likely that he doesn't want to have to deal with purchasing new oil, and discarding the old oil.

(Though he would still need some oil to replace what's lost out of the canister)

Received mine from Pelican ($25 and a Porsche branded filter was installed). Today I used some JB Weld to put the magnets on them.
http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/60715-my-take-magnetic-oil-filter-housing.html
This weekend, they'll go on the Boxsters.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4200/3...1418dd39_c.jpg

To me, this is not about chain rattle, but more the fact that the bypass valve in these is known to fail over time. An inexpensive bit of maintenance that may keep your engine healthy for a lot longer. Of course, the spin-on full flow adapter JFP mentioned is probably a better long term solution ($$$).

A few years ago I also replaced the three tensioners in an effort to stop chain rattle at start-up. It didn't help. I just recently completed a bunch of work that included replacement of the cam to cam chain ramps which were badly worn. No more chain rattle!

What other work did you do at that time? I also replaced my cam to cam chain ramps and new chains at the same time as I replace the tensioners. I would say the start up rattle is the same as before.

Last weekend I finally got around to putting on my new filter housing and filter (did not do oil change - 2500 miles to go on DT40)
Seems like my start-up chain rattle is reduced by 80 - 90%.
There is still a little but not as much as before!
I think my old canister was original - 16 yrs old, and probably had a very weak spring.
I can see why many mechanics say replace every 2nd or 3rd oil change!

Hi,

I had my oil changed a few weeks ago (PO had Motul in, my indy used Mobil 1) and since then have had, to my ear anyway, more start-up rattle. I thought it might be oil related, but having just read about replacing the canister it sounds worth a try Can someone please give a quick overview of the process. Other cars I have changed the oil on would lose a lot of oil when the filter is removed. However, that doesn't seem the case here. Can I simply remove the canister and only have to deal with the oil in the canister? I would plan to save the filter for the next oil change.

Cheers,

Paul.

Yes, only the oil in the canister and a few drips will be lost when you unscrew and replace the cup. I sometimes do this to check my filter in-between oil changes and add less than a 1/2 quart after.

Let's cut to the chase. Buy the LN Engineering kit that includes the spin-on oil filter adapter, magnetic drain plug, and FilterMAG. Problem solved.

Just sayin'...........

TO

p.s. this may not eliminate any "chain rattle", as I have never been convinced it has anything to do with the oil filtration system.