Excellent! You won't be disappointed!
Cheers.

Bought the 3550# version ~ 3 years ago and really like it. I could find anything even close for the money. Very study and would buy it again. Also really like the portability and ability to store it.

Just purchased the Quickjack 3500 unit for my garage. I saw a commercial on TV with a $100 off promo code plus free shipping. The lift was on sale and with the promo code the final price was $899.

Don't know how long the promo will last but the code I used was "safe". This promo has been offered a few times since Christmas.

Quickjack 3500,
$1600.00 in canada.

and same height as jack stands.

Quickjack 7000SLX arrived today
 

My Quickjack 7000SLX w/SUV and light truck adapters arrived today. Because everything around here is still under 2+ ft of snow, maybe I'll assemble it this weekend. I'll keep you guys posted.

Here's a pic. It is well packaged and was delivered by Fedex. I did most of the damage to the boxes walking them from one garage to another. Total shipping weight was listed at 295 lbs (4 boxes including the SUV adapters).

http://www.pbase.com/picsbyfw/image/165138826.jpg

Received my Quickjack 7000 and SUV/light truck adapter kit yesterday. Four well packaged boxes arrived undamaged. The 7000 is heavy. Each frame weighs ~91 lbs. Worth it for me because I'll be lifting my Explorer Sport in addition to our s5 cab and our 986.

Tried to post a pic of the packaging I took yesterday (resized to 800x600) by linking to my personal pBase account (which I have had forever), but the forum moderators blocked the post and have not released it even though I sent a PM. I bought the Quickjack from Pelican. It was shipped quickly. Too bad they don't trust me enough to let me post a properly resized, on topic pic to the forum.

So I assume all 3 quick jack models fit under / work with the 986? I only ask since my boxster is still in winter storage and I can't do the measurements they give to do on their website.

my 986's PO confirmed that his 5000 fit. I saw his 5000 but we didn't lift the car. The 7000 has a minimum 3.5" height and its overall length is a little less than 73", so the 7000 physically fits under the car. We just did a quick measurement on our 2004 and it is ~54.5" from jacking centerpoint to jacking centerpoint. Overall tire to tire clearance at the bottom of the rocker panel is a little over 72 inches. Min-max rubber block spread on both the 5000 and 7000 is listed as 31.5" - 60". I measure ~5"+ from the garage floor to the bottom of the jack points. Only question remaining to confirm is relative positioning (in relation to the jack points) of the rubber pads in the lift frame rails. I can't confirm until I actually assemble the 7000 and perform a test lift, but it appears that the 7000 will fit ok. I'll post an update as soon as I perform the test lift.

Looks like a good lift. My concern would be is there enough clearance to drop your motor etc. I've had the Maxjax also since 2010 about a month after purchasing the car. It costs more but over 6.5 years of not taking the car to the Porsche dealer or a independent it has paid for itself several fold. It makes the motor or transmission removal simple. I use a 24. Bike jack and then slowly raise the car off the motor. I believe that would be harder with a jack system that does raise straight up. Those fold down jacks all Raise on an Arc.

Motor and trans out 3 times
Trans alone 3 times
Strut replacement.
Control arms 2 time once standard arms, once GT3 arms and toe-links
Oil and filter about 5 times a year. Every other track weekend at least, and year end.
Exhaust system R&R.
Trailing arms.
Tires before and after every DE and AX.
Brakes before and after every DE since starting to use race pads
Bleeding and flushing brakes. Flushed 2 times a year and bleed before every DE
Cooling system Mods twice.
Power steering Mod.

I agree. IMHO, no way to easily drop the engine with a Quickjack. If you're into full blown maintenance and repair, a two post jack is the way to go. You make an important point about foldowns raising in an arc. Even if ~21" of lift height were enough to clear the engine, the arcing trajectory of the car on a fold down would bring too many alignment and clearance issues (for me anyway).

For my intended use (winter/summer tire changes on 3 cars, oil changes, fixing my loose heat shield, brake jobs, suspension work, periodic inspection, etc., etc.), the Quickjack will be great. I would have went with the QJ 5000 except for the fact that I need to lift my Explo Sport which probably surpasses 5,000 lbs with full fluids and I like to err on the side of caution. The 7000 weighs almost 20 lbs more per frame than the 5000.

My mid rise scissors lift works fine:

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d6...t/P3120033.jpg

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d6...t/P3120032.jpg

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d6...t/P3120039.jpg

Another great option for full service maintenance. What's the price range on those?

This is it. It uses 110V power and can be used on most any level concrete surface.

Atlas® TD6MR 6,000 Lbs. Capacity Portable 110 Volt Scissor Lift | GSES

Thanks, only a couple of hundred more than the QJ 7000 with over twice the lift height. Lots of good options out there.

That price also includes the truck adapters.

Yeah, the QJ7000 w/SUV-truck adapters is 1,800 and change unless you can find a rebate.

The QJ was the best choice for my needs, but for more serious wrenchers there are other options in the price range that might be a better fit. Especially if you consider used lifts.

Of course the QJ7000 is overkill if all you need to do is lift a 986 for oil changes, brake jobs, etc. According to the specs a QJ3500 should meet those needs for a lot less money and weight.

During my muscle car days in the late 60s and early 70s I bummed use of a couple of pits at the gas stations where my friends worked. I much prefer working with a lift. Drive over pits do nothing for you if you're doing brake or suspension work, or if you need to remove wheels for component access. IMHO a pit would not be a great assist for Porsche engine removal because you need to support the engine, detach all connections from the car and then either lift the car or lower the engine to remove. Even if you manage to remove the engine, you would need to then hoist it out of the pit.

do these require any special concrete specifications ? besides flat and level.
i just scratched maxjax off my list because i have no idea what my floor psi is and there is no rebar in it.

Get yourself some steel or aluminum plate maybe .500 - .750 thick for the rollers and pivot point to rest/slide on. Will distribute the weight nicely . I do this even with the 6 " + thick pour I did for my scissor lift . I do it mainly to protect the concrete from getting a " wear groove " from the rollers going back and forth . You don't need a full sheet just pieces 6 "- 8 " wide is sufficient x about 40 " long .

the specs say 44 inch of lift, what are they like to work under?
and how are they for moving around for set up / storage?