Time for a new gasket
 

Was doing a oil change yesterday ran into some issues but saw some evidence of a leaking oil pan gasket. Can I get your thoughts on this? Wanted your wise insight before I buttoned everything up and filled it with oil. http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1485111917.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1485111962.jpg

Check to make sure that the oil isn't coming from somewhere other than the sump pan - sometimes the path that oil takes can be surprising.

Also, there isn't a true gasket on the oil sump pan, just a light coating of sealant between the two machined surfaces. Thus, when you drop the sump pan be sure to check the sump pan for any warping which may be contributing to the seepage.

If it was me, I'd refill it with oil and clean it up so make it easier to monitor. If it continues to seep or leak to the extent where its dripping, then drop the sump pan and re-seal on the next oil change.

If we are to have some fun with this by proposing culprits, my bet would be on the cam cover gaskets.In my own case recently it would have been the oil seals on the heat exchanger.That proves Mr.Stone's contention -you can't find a leakage point much higher on the engine than the HeatX but the drips were from the very bottom. Gravity and surface tension never sleep.

From your pictures, there's really no way to be sure of the source. Here's one of mine that had a leak that made the pan oily. This picture is after cleaning it and watching:
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02/leak1485121082.jpg

I cleaned it, and checked it regularly. There were lots of things that I hoped it was: spark plug tubes, oil cooler, leaky plug... I ruled them out over time. It got worse and I finally had it fixed by a shop while I had it in the shop for an inspection. It was the seal for the IMS. The IMS bearing itself (dual row) was still good, but I had them install the LN bearing anyway.

Lucky catch -but only because of great attention to detail. Congratulations ,you saved an M96 from IMSB failure+destruction

Thanks Guys! I will clean the entire pan and do a search, I do have some spots on the garage floor about the size of a dime on the right side so I will start there. When I had the purchase inspection done I had a slight leak in one plug tube and a secondary pump. I will track those down as well.

In the mean time I am waiting on a oil drain plug as I torqued the plug down to 37ftlbs not realizing it was the newer billet one :eek:

G

It is not a bad idea to remove your sump periodically to see whats lying in there but getting the right amount of sealant (very very minimal) back on is not so easy. Most of your leaking is above your pan seal, unless you store your car on it's roof.
So that would indicating it's coming from above.
Definitely clean it up and watch

If you have a leaking spark plug tube it explains the burning oil smell. Oil falls on the exhaust and Burns. The clattering noise sounds like something in the valve train. Does it get worse when you rev the motor.

Someone had the sump off before and goobered too much sealant on it. I would take it off and do it right and at the same time see what's in the sump. Too much sealant can clog the oil pickup and ruin the motor.

On my other car I sprayed and cleaned about a inch or two from above the pan gasket everything below with brake cleaner or carb cleaner wipe or air dry then immediately start the car and look for leaks. This could eliminate the pan gasket altogether. These solvents dry real quick being alcohol based.

Sump pan removal and big surprises
 

Last spring I decided to remove sump pan and check baffles. Everything ok but a piece of camshaft chain roller at bottom of pan.
What a bad surprise..how long has it been sitting there...decided to have all chains replaced plus other things while engine was apart.
Never had any metal debris in oil filter.
Lesson 1 Do not trust your oil filter 100% for engine health
Lesson 2 check your sump pan once in a while, easy job that can prevent bigger job

Redboxsta

If you plan to remove the sump plate often, it may be worth considering replacing the bolts with s/s studs. It saves wearing the threads in the crankcase halves.It is an inexpensive mod. There are s/s studs with an internal hex socket in the head. I think they are M6 coarse but verify length and thread pitch.If you measure crfully ,you'll find the holes in the c/c halves are much deeper than the bolts would suggest. Longer studs in the c/c halves give more 'purchase' for the threadlocker.Make sure you do not have overlong studs hanging below the sump plate.If a dangling stud got caught .....
I used them when I installed a deep sump Blue Loctitie in the c/c and green 290 or 294 after correct torque on the new (flanged?) nuts.YEMV

Good idea, thank you.

You mean something like this?


http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1486511825.jpg

Fortunately my engine is OK, but this shows why they say "apply sealant sparingly"!

Well Rodj make sure this is sealant, not chain rail guard parts. Sealant would be on the soft side, guard rail very stiff I suppose.
Redboxsta

If there is no gasket make sure and use a proper sealant (not silicone). I'm sure there are recommended products for this application out there. I have used Loctite 574 on aluminum case halves with success.

ps I see some recommendations include silicone type sealants so I don't know