986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners
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986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners (http://986forum.com/forums/index.php)
-   Boxster General Discussions (http://986forum.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=5)
-   -   Looking for advice (http://986forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62768)

DFromC 08-16-2016 01:54 PM
You understand Canadian customs very well... but it would be rude of me to point out that I'd been offended ;)

He can take me in his Porsche - I'll reciprocate and take him out in my NAS Land Rover Defender 90. Or the Range Rover.. either way, it's a different kind of fun.

Appreciate all the recommendations to do a PPI - None of the local dealers want to do one, so I'm going to contact the local PCA chapter (yes, there's a few Canadian Chapters!) and start asking a lot of questions.

The only dealer that was interested in doing something like a PPI was offering a 110-point inspection, plus a 4-5 hour compression and leak-down test @ $159/hour... and I thought Land Rover dealerships had expensive shop rates! LOL

I also have a sailboat, so I'm familiar with shredding hundred dollar bills and getting wet...




Quote:
Originally Posted by 78F350 (Post 506795)
If I understand Canadian customs correctly, Mark_T has offended you and is now obligated to take you out to Timmy's and make reparations. Have him let you drive his car.



Like any 10+ year old used car, some are good, some are bad. If you are not familiar with them, hire a professional to do a pre-purchase inspection.

I generally buy them wrecked or highly depreciated at my own risk. I enjoy doing most of my own work, short of machine shop stuff. Competent shops that work on these cars charge a bit over $100/hour for labor and will not discount your parts. That makes a big difference in whether a problem is cheap or expensive to fix.

Very common problems:
-Missing/broken plastic panels on the undercarriage.
-Malfunctioning windows.
-Airbag system failure (most commonly seat belt wiring).
-Horn contact failure.
-Water pump failure.
-Coolant expansion tank (or cap) leak.
-Brake wear.
-Uneven tire wear.
-Worn suspension parts - rear trailing arms especially.
-Broken parts in the top mechanism - gears, cables, and linkage.
-Blocked drains. Leads to: Wet padding under carpet, failed immobilizer box, corrosion inside brake booster, and more.
-S models commonly have a problem with 2nd gear pop-out
-Spark plug tubes leak. (1997-2002)
-Alternator bearings/idler pulleys seize.
-The Air Oil Separators fail internally and dump oil directly into the intake.

Those are just some of the most common, easy to fix things that I have found on my cars. There's plenty more scary stuff that is less common:
-Failed hydraulic lifters.
-Bad chain tensioners.
-Sheared crankshaft.
-Oil pump failures.
-VarioCam actuator failure.
-Connecting rod bolt failure.
-Rear main seal failure.
Most of these can lead to a repair cost of thousands of dollars (or Very Many thousands of Canadian dollars).

My advice: Buy one that looks pretty and drive it hard. Consider your money gone. For me, it somehow worked out better than my investment in the Oil and Gas industry.
:cheers:

BruceH 08-16-2016 01:58 PM
Post what part of Canada, there might be someone close to you with a mechanic recommendation. Otherwise, the folks in your local PCA chapter will know someone.

DFromC 08-16-2016 01:59 PM
Toronto - east end.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceH (Post 506822)
Post what part of Canada, there might be someone close to you with a mechanic recommendation. Otherwise, the folks in your local PCA chapter will know someone.

DFromC 08-16-2016 02:13 PM
As a side-note, I have a highly modified 362HP 2007 Audi A3 going up for sale that will fund the purchase of the 986... APR tune, S3 intercooler, K04 Stage 2 Turbo, APR downpipe, carbonio intake, APR HPFP, Bosch Hi-Flow injectors, poly dog bone bushing, BSH engine mount, BSH PCV revamp, etc, etc.. list goes on for a while..


Quote:
Originally Posted by 78F350 (Post 506795)
If I understand Canadian customs correctly, Mark_T has offended you and is now obligated to take you out to Timmy's and make reparations. Have him let you drive his car.



Like any 10+ year old used car, some are good, some are bad. If you are not familiar with them, hire a professional to do a pre-purchase inspection.

I generally buy them wrecked or highly depreciated at my own risk. I enjoy doing most of my own work, short of machine shop stuff. Competent shops that work on these cars charge a bit over $100/hour for labor and will not discount your parts. That makes a big difference in whether a problem is cheap or expensive to fix.

Very common problems:
-Missing/broken plastic panels on the undercarriage.
-Malfunctioning windows.
-Airbag system failure (most commonly seat belt wiring).
-Horn contact failure.
-Water pump failure.
-Coolant expansion tank (or cap) leak.
-Brake wear.
-Uneven tire wear.
-Worn suspension parts - rear trailing arms especially.
-Broken parts in the top mechanism - gears, cables, and linkage.
-Blocked drains. Leads to: Wet padding under carpet, failed immobilizer box, corrosion inside brake booster, and more.
-S models commonly have a problem with 2nd gear pop-out
-Spark plug tubes leak. (1997-2002)
-Alternator bearings/idler pulleys seize.
-The Air Oil Separators fail internally and dump oil directly into the intake.

Those are just some of the most common, easy to fix things that I have found on my cars. There's plenty more scary stuff that is less common:
-Failed hydraulic lifters.
-Bad chain tensioners.
-Sheared crankshaft.
-Oil pump failures.
-VarioCam actuator failure.
-Connecting rod bolt failure.
-Rear main seal failure.
Most of these can lead to a repair cost of thousands of dollars (or Very Many thousands of Canadian dollars).

My advice: Buy one that looks pretty and drive it hard. Consider your money gone. For me, it somehow worked out better than my investment in the Oil and Gas industry.
:cheers:

Giller 08-16-2016 02:25 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by DFromC (Post 506823)
Toronto - east end.
PCA UCR | Upper Canada Region of the Porsche Club of America, great resources, tons of owners in Toronto.

husker boxster 08-16-2016 02:26 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by DFromC (Post 506820)
None of the local dealers want to do one, so I'm going to contact the local PCA chapter (yes, there's a few Canadian Chapters!) and start asking a lot of questions.

The only dealer that was interested in doing something like a PPI was offering a 110-point inspection, plus a 4-5 hour compression and leak-down test @ $159/hour... and I thought Land Rover dealerships had expensive shop rates! LOL
Sadly, fewer places are doing PPIs because they don't want the liability of something breaking 1 mo later and the customer coming back to them to pay for it. Good things always go bad when lawyers get involved.

And welcome to the world of expensive German cars, but you should be aware of this world if you have an Audi.

Good luck with your search. You are heading into a good time to buy with fall approaching. Any dealer in your area with a Boxster should be willing to deal on it. They don't want to go deep into Sep with a convertible sports car on their lot.

Giller 08-16-2016 02:29 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by nicecar (Post 506780)
The only people who say not to get an S is people that dont have one. Sort of like people who say" money doesnt matter" they either have way too much or none. As far as this forum... it is great but you have to weed thru all the smart ass know it alls hiding behind the comp. Ask anything you want, someone will help. Old threads are fine but things change all the time. Want any oil or tire advice....ask away. I can say that if you buy one drive it ....hard and often, Fast and slow. Great machine
Wow, super arrogant. Many of us bought non 'S' models because the bigger engine simply isn't worth the extra purchase price, for us. Lots of other reasons too. I'm on my second Boxster, never even thought about an S this time as I am totally happy with 'the base' model.

DFromC 08-16-2016 02:32 PM
I do all my own wrench work on the Audi, unless it's electronic...

Quote:
Originally Posted by husker boxster (Post 506826)
Sadly, fewer places are doing PPIs because they don't want the liability of something breaking 1 mo later and the customer coming back to them to pay for it. Good things always go bad when lawyers get involved.

And welcome to the world of expensive German cars, but you should be aware of this world if you have an Audi.

Good luck with your search. You are heading into a good time to buy with fall approaching. Any dealer in your area with a Boxster should be willing to deal on it. They don't want to go deep into Sep with a convertible sports car on their lot.

paulofto 08-16-2016 02:33 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by DFromC (Post 506823)
Toronto - east end.
The Upper Canada Region is the largest chapter of the PCA so you are in good hands out there in the Big Smoke. Join the PCA and make some friends, you won't regret it.

You are also lucky with a great selection of roads up in Muskoka, Halliburton and down in the Niagara region. I really miss those roads!

DFromC 08-16-2016 02:38 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by DFromC (Post 506829)
I do all my own wrench work on the Audi, unless it's electronic...
Just did both rear hub and bearings - you do NOT want to know what the torque setting is for those axle bolts... think as high as you reasonably think a bolt goes on, then add something insane, and you're getting close...

paulofto 08-16-2016 02:40 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by DFromC (Post 506831)
Just did both rear hub and bearings - you do NOT want to know what the torque setting is for those axle bolts... think as high as you reasonably think a bolt goes on, then add something insane, and you're getting close...
What, your torque wrench doesn't go to infinity?

DFromC 08-16-2016 02:53 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by paulofto (Post 506833)
What, your torque wrench doesn't go to infinity?
<Off topic warning>
It's 150ft-lbs (ok, not too bad - my wrench goes to 250) plus a 180-degree turn (WTF??!!) The bolts are one-time use only, as the end 'twists' to set the hub just right.. and the bolts are 8.50$ each and the only place I could find them was the dealership...

I had to buy a 36" long, 1" format breaker bar with a 18mm triple square bit to get that bolt set right... INSANE. I had to stand on the bar and bounce to set it.
Took a month just to order the tools.

I'm 99.9% sure I'll never need that again. Even the hub bolts on my Rover were 202ft-lbs - no extra twist..

nicecar 08-16-2016 02:55 PM
[QUOTE=Giller;506827]Wow, super arrogant. Many of us bought non 'S' models because the bigger engine simply isn't worth the extra purchase price, for us. Lots of other reasons too. I'm on my second Boxster, never even thought about an S this time as I am totally happy with 'the base' model.[/ Many of you need to chime in because I cant tell you how many times I have read "should have got the S " Maybe I should have searched for it first so I could be exact....too lazy I guess. Arrogant?

kjc2050 08-16-2016 04:14 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by particlewave (Post 506789)
All "S" models have a single row IMSB.
This is not true. 2000 was the transition year: early model year 2000's had the dual row, later 2000's had the single row. My 2000 S had a dual row bearing. I've even heard of 2001's that had the dual row.

mikefocke 08-16-2016 04:30 PM
Owned both an '01S and a '99 base, actually preferred the base! Loved them both. Neither was my first sports car nor my first Porsche. But they were both by far the best of both categories. Mine were economical to operate (lucky) once I had the PPI and resultant maintenance done.

Dozens of pages on buying a Boxster of the 986 vintage here. Includes model year differences, best and worst features, etc. One man's opinions.

Good luck.

Steve Tinker 08-16-2016 11:02 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjc2050 (Post 506845)
This is not true. 2000 was the transition year: early model year 2000's had the dual row, later 2000's had the single row. My 2000 S had a dual row bearing. I've even heard of 2001's that had the dual row.
You are correct kjc - my early 2001 S has the dual row bearing but I suspect the engine was built some time in 2000 and then shipped to Finland & co-joined with the chassis in January 2001.

tommy583 08-17-2016 02:25 AM
I have a base model and am more than happy with it. I have also driven my buddies S and Cayman S models. While both are faster, they don't really seem faster. Maybe the lowish torque in the flat six engines has something to do with it. They just don't pin you to the seat like a WRX and Evo would. When I drove a friends Evo the other day I couldn't believe it had the same HP as the Cayman S, it felt much stronger. Of course with the turbo 4 it also sounded like crap compared to a flat six.

Tcar 08-17-2016 09:37 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by DFromC (Post 506772)
... if say, it can be assumed most cars of this vintage have had the IMS and RMS replaced with a clutch maintenance...
No, you can't assume that. Most cars have NOT had the IMS bearing replaced.

I've even seen a number that had the clutch replaced but not the IMS. Even single row cars (like the one I bought.)

I like the extra torque that the 'S' has.
The 6 speed is a non-issue for me (assume it's mostly for better gas mileage).

The base is still pretty peppy and they both handle very, very well.

Jamesp 08-17-2016 12:49 PM
Underpowered, yet slow, the base continues to fill a much needed void. :eek: :matchup:

Ok - I just posted that to see if there was anyone who would rise to the bait! :)

steved0x 08-17-2016 01:18 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by paulofto (Post 506833)
What, your torque wrench doesn't go to infinity?
I did my axle nuts until the axle started to twist off and then I backed it out a little.


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