The problem is the same for one hole or one hundred holes - swarf clogging the flutes of the tap .Galling is also a specific problem in aluminum tapping. If you just power-through a galling tap in aliuminum you'll have very loose threads.
Btw fitting a s/s stud +red Loctite instead of a bolt may be a better fix .

Wd40 will not work as cutting oil. Cutting oil, fluid really, is there to oxidize the metal as it is being cut so the workpiece and the cutting tool don't microscopically cold weld at the cutting surface which creates the aforementioned galling.

You don't need cutting fluid to tap one tiny hole, lmao! :D
You guys crack me up sometimes...does he need Porsche specific cutting fluid? It's tapping a 1/8" hole for a bracket, not an engine rebuild. :rolleyes:

You better replace that IMSB while you're at it. Those things can explode at any time! :p

I got the fluid anyhow. I got everything to finish the job, just need to do. Thanks everyone for the help. I'll report back.

Particle wave, I appreciate your humor.😃

When tapping, it is good insurance to have protection.

Helicoil is only like a 1/2 inch, bolt is just under an inch. Is that right?

Sorry, wife left table and I was trying to write quick. Waiting outside store now. So is the heli size correct? Do I just drill the hole the length of the bolt and spin heli to bottom? Leave heli flush and cut bolt? Find longer heli?

see #24 it is a video that gives the basics

Stupid question which way do I turn the tap. I would think clockwise but my track record is not so hot.

WD will work perfect for what you have to do. With the tap, get it started and then go in a turn and then out a turn, this will clear the chips from the tap flutes.

Yeah clockwise. Then blow it out with some brake cleaner. Gently test fit the helicoil but just a turn or two. The red loctite that mother in there. Don't forget to knock the tab off the end of the helicoil after you set it. Wait a bit for the loctite to set and then proceed with your installation.

I would only tap as deep as your helicoil is long, (or just a touch deeper) and then install so the helicoil is flush with the surface. Edit: I just saw your post. Drill down to the depth of your bolt. But tap and set the helicoil flush with the surface and red loctite it in so it is permanently installed, flush to the surface. Shouldn't have to cut the bolt.

Also did you get my pm, I have an extra stud for the brake bracket, send me your address and I will send it to you if you want to go the stud approach for that one.

Tapped, heli coil in. Not the best job. I couldn't put out so it is grabbing something. I'll need to cut the bolt a little. I'm a bit depressed at the results. Moving on. Thanks everyone.

Bolt seems to hold pretty nicely. I feel pretty comfortable I could torque the bolt over 7.5 lb ft. Just curious, everyone says to put loctite on the bolt. Wouldn't I be better with anti seize since the bolt not coming out caused this debacle? Just curious.

You should always use anti seize on dissimilar fasteners.

Loctite the #$%^ out of the helicoil to the wheel carrier but then a little antiseize sounds good on the bolt. Sounds like you are done, congrats! Go for a drive :)

I wish I was there. I still need to figure out why the left side front is not dropping to correct height. I put in lowering spring. Lowered and it looked ok. I then notice I put the bottom washer on the strut the wrong direction. Flipped and put back together. Now the spring or strut is not compressing. Hoping once I get the right down, it will fix it self. Right was down on the ground when it settled ok. Right up when left didn't settle. I tried lowering right with jack. Left still didn't settle. Not sure if I could have ruined strut. Don't see how I could have.

Righty tighty lefty loosey. Sorry couldnt help it.
Normally you shouldn`t use anti-seize if the faster has a specific torque value but 7.5 sure.

Front end is lowered. Thanks everyone for your help and patience.
David

This is a priceless thread. Folks who have never machined anything in their lives giving sage advice. Olive oil! Bwha ha ha ha ha!!!!! Brilliant!!! WD 40?!?! Hope you're looking for some nice loose threads! What a bunch of jokers! Hey, Ive got some vegetable oil I could spare... I'm sure somebody out there has some K-Y, or maybe consider the right tool for the job, cutting oil. Almost like it was made for just such an application. I'm glad to see you ditched the primitive Pete's and are doing the job right. A textbook example of folks giving bad advice on the forum.

Now to be completely fair, a crappy thread cutting job for you application really doesn't matter, but if you were cutting threads where fit mattered olive oil advice is deadly.

I know you're not referring to me since you know that I'm an engineer and have been machining and turning wrenches for 20 years. Or did you forget? ;)

You don't need cutting fluid for a 1/8" job, as you just stated (and contradicted yourself). ;)
Have you been drinking? :cheers:

BTW, a proper engine rebuild would have included an ultrasonic bath (or does doing things by the book only apply to others?).

#dontinternetdrunk