Not starting or turning over
 

My 2003 Boxster S will not start. It doesn't turn over or anything. When I turn the key, the dash lights come on and you hear the fuel pump kick on but that's it. I have checked the fuses, checked the relays(switched them out) and nothing. I have changed the electrical portion of the ignition and checked the switch at the clutch. What else can I look at?

Is this the same car where you think you miss-wired the starter when you reinstalled it?

Yes, I'm back to my original problem now.

Are you absolutely sure the starter is wired correctly now?

Yes, I'm absolutely positive....
The no start issue is my original problem and that's what I'm back too

Did you test the starter out of the car after the miss-wiring adventure? Are you positive it still works correctly?

Yes I did…
This no start issue was going on before my starter wiring fiasco. The no start was what had led me to the starter in the first place. Now that is resolved and I am back to the no start issue.

I've seen posts where the immobilizer under the driver's seat caused a similar problem. I would research this if I were you.

Ya looks like that may be my next step. It's dry though and never has gotten wet.

If you have incorrectly wired the starter and tried to turn the car over, you may have fried the solenoid on the starter, or blown one of the heavy amperage fuses on the power center behind the heater box. If you have since taken the starter out and had it tested, and it was good, I'd check the power center fuses.

JFP I never tried to start it cause I wasn't able to connect the battery cause of the short. It was a dumb mistake on my part which I'd rather not discuss...lol. Like I've said I had the no start problem before I played with the starter. It's back to the way it was before the starter problems.

And you have tested the starter outside the car, showing that it works? Yes or no?

If it does work, you need to look at the heavy fuses on the power distribution block on the firewall by the heater box. That short had to fry something..................

Yes I tested the starter outside the car after and it is fine. That short fried the battery, hence why I never reconnected it u till I found my mistake. I've checked all the fuses and relays

Have you checked the heavy current power distribution block fuses behind the heater? Looks like this:

http://rennlist.com/forums/attachmen...tion-block.jpg [IMG]http://www.****************************************.com/UserData/Images/Large/200475.jpg[/IMG]

I will check those in the morning and let you know what I find.

There is also a relay and a fuse in the rear trunk, behind the liner in the left rear corner.

The power distribution thing that JFP is pointing out can be reached from under the dash (two bolts plus the wiring connections in the front trunk). When you open it up it has fuseable links, which of course you might have fried.

you may want to try this
 

I went crazy for a couple of weeks trying to find the cause for my power loss and the culprit was the connector that attaches the + on the battery to the power distribution box (# 4 on JFP's diagram), because after it got removed, I notice some corrosion on the connector that goes through the firewall.

I disconnected the cable from the battery, then pried out the connector (it comes along with the plastic covering), then cleaned the connector with electric cleaner and also used a dab of dielectric grease, and so far no more power outages...

Good luck

Had the same problem. It was the ignition cut out switch on the clutch pedal. 30 bucks at Autozone.

Sorry for not getting back sooner, but I gave up on the car and concentrated on building my garage. Anyway, I brought the car to a Porsche mechanic and he came to the conclusion that it was my immobilizer under the seat. He called and told me that he would bring it to the dealer cause they can fix them. He has brought quite a few boxsters to that particular dealer for the same problem. Well I get a call from my mechanic the other day with some news...turns out it was corrosion on the connectors to the immobilizer. The dealer mechanic called him and told him he noticed the corrosion, so he cleaned it up and put on new connectors. He hooked it up to the dealers computer and reprogrammed everything. Grand total of $500. Im quite happy! So just a heads up if someone has this type of problem.