Convertible Top Question
 

Please see refer to photo taken from driver side rear quarter panel towards front of Box. Not sure what push rod goes on this ball, if any. Pelican has two push rods:

A) Push Rod for Convertible Top Transmission Pivot (Left or Right, sold per each)
Part #: 986-561-279-02-M100 - 2 required

-or-

B) Convertible Top Push Rod
Part #: 986-561-579-00-OEM - 1 required

Any idea? My mechanic exchanged my top and frame from a donor Boxster and noticed a good bit of rattles after installation. Not sure if this is the culprit. I tightened tension cables that reduced some rattles but not as quiet as original top assembly. BTW, top goes up and down nicely but will resist operating top if there is actually a missing push rod for fear of damage. Thanks in advance.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...co/Top%201.jpg

That's the thin adjustable rod with screw on plastic ball cap end. It has a rubber grommet w alen bolt in other end that bolts to the boomerang arm at top transmission.

Thanks. There's one of these on each side?

Yes and I believe they are Left and Right so if you need both buy carefully

Ok, so i now see that the push rod is connected on the other end but am having a hell of a time fishing it out. Any pointers??

I'm not sure how your top is functioning correctly....is the other side connected?

Yes it has. Have raised and lowered trying to figure out how to get to the rod. It appears the other side is connected.

.... but it's has to be putting a lot of stress on the passenger side transmission...

Ok. Just put the top in service position, remove tension cables to allow the rear window to be raised up. You should have good access to dig that rod out.

Get a helper to raise/lower the top a bit to help you get access and alo to connect the rod when you do get it free.

Thanks, will try. The rod is wedged in the cavity left and below the ball in the photo below. You can barely see the transmission arm and the connected rod. The rod is positioned towards the front of the car. Tightly wedged.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...35AB3EDE30.jpg

Once the rod has been pulled up into it's normal place, inspect the foam water tray for holes and clean the drains. If the rod has poked holes in the tray you will get water in the car.

Refer to your manual on how to operate the top manually, you'll find instructions on how to pop the rods out with the aluminum tool in your toolset. Best way to do it is with the top fully down, that's when you'll have the best access to them. You can figure out what's broken or not sitting properly. Be very careful operating it, I'm amazed you say it still works, if a ball joint is out it should twist in a bad way or at least out unwanted stress on the frame.

Make sure you removed the plastic covers from the clamshell lid on both sides, the banana shaped ones, they come easy and once the top is down you'll have the access you need.

As mentioned above, if you are still having a tough time getting the rod free, disconnect the rod on the other side using the pry tool in your tool pouch. Disconnecting the other rod will allow you or a helper to move the top around a bit while you try to get the rod free.

If push comes to shove, remove the whole top assembly and get the rod free. It may sound like a lot of work but it isn't really. Basically three bolts on each side and maybe one or two small phillips screws. With you on one side and a helper on the other, you can lift the top assembly up and off the car.

Also, as mentioned, make sure you check the foam trays for rips. Any small rip will result in water entering the cabin behind the seats.

Here is the DYI link for removing the whole top and frame from Mike Focke's web site.

https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/removingthetopandframe

If the plastic part of these rods has broken, keep in mind that something else may have caused these to break. I bought quite a few of these before realizing the problem was not the rods, but something else was causing them bind up and snap off.

I still haven't fixed it, I just went to manual until such time I feel like digging in there. I think that triangle piece might be bent on mine which leads me to believe that something else caused that to happen and down the rabbit hole I go.

Second the comment to check the foam trays for holes. Check well. Look all the up under the metal bracket that it may be jammed under. You can also unbolt the tod from the other end. Then slide the entire rod out. I would recommend taking both rods ought. You will need to compare them to ensure that neither one has bent.

Had to order a couple of bushings. Mechanic tweaked the roof. It seems perfectly aligned now since connecting rod was returned to its right full place. Knock on wood, seems that all is good. Car is a lot quitter now that changes were made.

Thanks to everyone for your advice.