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Walshie, here's another thread -- water entering via the side mirror, running down the wire harness through the bottom of the door and into the footwell.
http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/22781-drivers-side-footwell-wet.html?highlight=Wet+door+panel You would only have water building up in the a/c drain if the a/c was running. I don't think this is the problem. Good luck my friend! |
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Thanks again Walshie |
To get to the bottom of this you really need to pull the carpet out. The backing is about 2" thick foam. This absorbs and retains water. You might think it is coming from the front but I could be anywhere.
To pull the carpet the seats and centre console need to come out but once you have a bare tub you can dust it with talcum powder and then follow the tracks to where the leak is. This also gives you the chance to get the carpet dry. You won't otherwise. Even leaving the roof down it will stay damp. Trust me on this. Tracing water leaks is tough. The Boxster isn't designed well to keep the rain out but if you take your time and trace and seal the leaks you will get this. |
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I will post result Walshie |
At last it looks like I have found the point of entry for the rain water. After extensive stripping out and water testing I have found water coming in around the lower extrusion of the heater box as it passes through the bulkhead. I am not sure what is on the frunk side of this but I think it's going to involve shipping the dashboard out to re seal it. Has anybody else had this problem.
Walshie. |
Check the drain in the center of the frunk - it is like 5-3 in this diagram linked in this thread: http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/61272-someone-please-explain-986-drainage-system.html
It is near the heater core. If it is blocked it might be allow water to seep through the firewall. |
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Thanks so much in advance if you don't mind taking the time to share! - Scott |
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Hi Scott Yes I did The water was coming in through a blanking panel bonded to the bulkhead on the passenger side. I had to remove all of the dash and centre console. I then had to remove the heater box assembly complete to get to the panel. I then re bonded the panel with Wurth bond and seal and for an extra measure, I then applied dynamat to the whole area before putting the carpet back. It never leaked again Walshie Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Thank you so much again, and cheers!! - Scott |
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It took best part of a day for me to remove everything but it was well worth it. The longest job was plucking up the courage to start it. There was a fantastic post that I used to help me . I am not sure how you re send something like that but it must still be in the thread somewhere. I was from meir. You may need to search for him but it is brilliant . Check all other remedies first. Good luck and let me know how you get on . I am here if you need help Walshie Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Step 1 - heater core removal/replacement: https://www.dropbox.com/s/6bi2dlsy47ygaky/step%201%20heater%20core%20removal.pdf?dl=0 Step 2 - dashboard cover removal: https://www.dropbox.com/s/lcthesknynmqaaz/step%202%20Dashboard%20cover%20removal.pdf?dl=0 Step 3 - replacing the evaporator and re- foaming the flaps: https://www.dropbox.com/s/gja11v6yi6h6sq9/step%203%20Evaporator%20replacement.pdf?dl=0 And did you do all three steps or just #2? I understand entirely the daunting prospect and the need to pluck up the courage, but I think I'm sufficiently psyched up to give it a go this weekend. Will let you know how it goes. I'm certain water is seeping though the heater box pass-through, but there might also be an accompanying source more toward the car's midline in the vicinity of the heater core. Am likely to attempt all of Meir's three steps for good measure. The car is throwing a "temperature flap" code, and I believe that is associated with missing flap insulation so I may as well do it all at once... Any other advice/recommendations before I proceed? Thank you so much for the brilliant guidance so far! Best, Scott |
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I actually responded to this post a couple of days ago but included the DropBox links to see if they looked familiar to you, but the forum said a moderator needed to review it before posting... I must have done something wrong because the response never posted. Anyway, thanks so much again for the help. I completely understand the daunting prospect this project presents and the need to muster courage--definitely there myself, but I think I'm sufficiently psyched up to make a go of it this weekend. I am sure of the leak through the heater box pass-thru, but there might also be an additional leak source more toward the midline, possibly the heater core, so I'm likely to attempt all of Meir's three steps. Will let you know how things go, and once again I appreciate your help! Best, Scott |
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Hi Scott Yes I did use all 3 posts. My advise is buy some zip lock food bags and a sharpie and put each set of fixings from each step in a different bag. Label them with the items and number them . Then reassemble in reverse order. I also took photos to remind me. It was actually quite fun in the end. Good luck and let me know how it goes. Walshie Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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I spent considerable time trying to clean out the small crevice right below the expansion valve. Tons of gunk in there and it was like flossing teeth because the car body at the base of the right strut mount (LHD car) has an outcropping just forward of the bulkhead plate that obscures visibility to the joint of the plate with the body. Also creates a channel where water accumulates thus causing this whole leak problem. Ended up using toothpicks and the end of a zip tie to get in there to scoop the gunk out, then flushed with water, and then dried with a heat gun and compressed air. It should be ready for the seal. Anything else you did or parts that you replaced in the process that I should pay attention to? Once again, thank you SO much for your experienced guidance! Best, Scott |
Hi Scott , if I am totally honest , I cannot remember what I did about the foam seal, although I know I didn’t buy a new one. I did however use the bond and seal to re stick the foam cover over the matrix in the fronk. One hood thing about the bond and seal is that it works if the surfaces are damp.
I am glad all appears to be going well. Good luck with the re build Walshie |
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Anyway, thank you SO much for the help in sorting out the leak problem--I couldn't have done it without you and Meir! I hope all is well in the UK and that you're staying out of the cross-hairs of the coronavirus. All the best, Scott |
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