Reviews of this product?
 

https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/131718222886

About time I replaced the struts and shocks. Browsing and I found this set which is equivalent in price to just one strut/shock from Koni.

Anyone use these before?

Well, the OEM shocks are specially designed for each engine type / model year. If one fits all - no comment. ;)

Regards, Markus

Good point..

actually ... shocks are the same. s shocks the same part number as base shocks. and they don't change part numbers from 97 to 04 either.

m030 sport suspension option is different.

I saw those too recently, but didn't want to be the first one to try them out :)

I just put in Koni FSD they're perfect for me


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Please tell more, I think you might be the first on here with a set on a 986 Boxster. It sounds like you are liking them pretty good so far? What springs are you using?

Thanks,

Steve

My take is that they are similar to cheap coil overs;

Will they work? Yes.
Will they fail in a month? Probably no.
Will they fail in a year? Depends on how many miles you drive.
Will they last as long as an OEM shock? Probably no.
Can I drive canyons with them? Yes.
Are they better than stock? Hard to say but probably better than your old shocks but not as good as a new OEM shock.
Are they better than PSS9's? Definitely no.
Are they better than my worn/blown OEM shocks? Yes.
Will they be good on the track? Probably no.

BMW Reviews: Stagg Shock/Strut Reviews?

Honda Reviews: Ever heard of STAGG SHS shocks? Pretty cheap, but not sure of reliability. - Honda-Tech

I used H&R sport springs and the Koni FSD. I drove my mechanics car with the Bilstein coil overs and loved the handling but seemed to stiff for every day driving. They give a very comfortable hwy ride and stiffer in the twistys. Very happy so far. If I was going to do a lot of track day's it would be bilstein for sure but I'm on the street 99.99% of the time.


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I forgot to mention I have a 2000 Boxster S the car is about 1 inch lower with this set up. I'm using stock wheels no clearance problems. Other mods include IBD pelinum, larger throttle body, fabspeed headers, cat bypass tubes,Borla exhaust, limited slip Dif,GT3 short shifter, upgraded shift cables,softronic tune. Direct oil feed to IMS. I bought this car 1 year ago with 32k on the clock. Engine replaced by Porsche at 17k because of IMS failure. I have all paper work since new


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I read through the reviews at bimmer forums and there's mixed feelings. One owner said they blew within 5 months, another was going strong for 3 years. Of course the mileage matters. Some also said there were fitment issues, where others had no complaint.

Seems like for the price it's good enough for daily use. If you track, I would definitely stay away. If I do pull the trigger on these I'll be sure to review it here.

Thanks all for the input

remember that the internet is a strange place. 999 people could be using a product with no problems, and the one failure gets posted multiple times on multiple different forums. further, failures early in the manufacturing life of a product due to an unforeseen initial design flaw shouldn't reflect on a current product which may have had that flaw long since engineered away, however most internet dialog is typically not that informed.

I'd be suspicious, they are just too cheap. You usually get what you pay for.

At $70 each, they are cheap compared to bilstein replacements which are original equipment for the boxster. But for most cars, $70 is an average price for a replacement strut. My contention is that the bilsteins (Porsche) are over priced.

how in the wide world of sports did that car pass smog?

JayG the cats are built into the headers. Passed sniff test the Boxster is harder to do visual inspection. So the lazy guy just doesn't look


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I saw them the other day and did a search, finding the threads on the bmw forum. I would day thstone wrote what i was thinking. Definitely better than 125k mile blown stock, bit don't expect miracles.

Funny thing, products like this are the result of manufactures squeezing profits by having their products made in China. Trouble is, those companies have now taught the Chinese how to make their stuff, to the last detail.

Next they'll act surprised to see "their product" sold with a different color of paint but cheaper.

I just bought a Boxster 98 and I need new shocks urgently!
I did some research and I was about to buy the Stagg's for 309 bucks including shipping on ebay.
Before to buy I did more research on google shopping and I just found the Bilstein's B4 OE Replacement for front and rear (22-113313 and 22-113320) for total of 372 on raceconsultingagency.com

I think that for this small difference, it have no sense to go with Stagg.
What do you guys think??

That $372 will buy you 1 front and 1 rear OEM Bilstein.

Nano305 - I think it's gonna be twice that cost, you need 4 of them!

It was too good to be true! Thanks guys!

Anyone end up getting them?
 

Need new struts. 78k miles 2001 boxster. Anyone end up getting them? Would like to know if they are decent. Thanks

With struts/shocks, you get what you pay for. If you intend to keep the car, especially since it's a Boxster (good handling should be important to you, if you own a mid-engined Porsche!) spend more on this item, don't cheap out.

If you sell the car, keep used shocks, or if you are going "in there" for some other reason before you can flip the car, sure - cheap out! If your buyer doesn't pick up somehow looking at recipts, based on what you say, or on a pre-purchase inspection, knowing the cheap parts used, the test drive will initially seem ok.

As another cheap option, EPS sells inexpensive strut inserts which can be retrofitted into the OE strut bodies.
https://www.europeanpartssolution.com/shock-absorber/

I wouldn't expect the cheaper options to feel very "new like" after 20k or so miles. Get a quality shock, and you'll get 100k+ miles of good service out them.

Another viable option is buying used, low-mile OE shocks. If I were buying a used car, I'd actually give preference to used quality shocks, over a new, cheap aftermarket shock.

My 2 cents... (maybe based on some very bad experiences in other cars getting very short service life out of cheap Monroes, aftermarket Tokico's, etc).

OE Boxster shocks are really some of the better quality shocks out there! Bilsteins are some of the best in the business. The comment someone made they are "overpriced" is absolutely uninfomed.

Remember, again... with shocks, you get what you pay for. :)

This is coming from a person who has 0 idea about cars so bear with me. :(

If I buy a Porsche boxster and simply want to lower it a bit (for looks) & don't intend to take it to tracks and simply do street driving without worrying about speed bumps and pot holes what do I need to buy EXACTLY?

1) I don't want to lower it to the point where I hit my bottom with speed bumps etc ... just want to lower it as much as possible without hitting the bottom somewhere.
2) I want a smooth ride, i don't want my body jumping every time I ride over a small bump.
3) Simple street/highway driving + not having to worry about speed bumps & pot holes what is the max I can lower the boxster?
4) I intend to keep my boxster for a long time as a daily driver/everyday car

I read some definitions of the terms used here.
->Coilovers - help lower the car
->Shocks/Spring/Suspension - what come stock with the car & help absorb the shock from pot holes/bumps on the road
->FSD - no idea still
->Struts - no idea still
->Spacers - read definition but don't fully understand it

Why are H&R spring set $315 while their h&r coilover set is $1790.
What's the difference if the springs can also lower the vehicle ... why buy more expensive lowering coilover's?

Basically I want my boxster to look like this:
Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet

How much is this lowered by approx?
What 'wheels' does it have?
What 'tires' does it have?

Again guys, I am new to cars. Sorry.

Thanks!

Those and other cheap Chinese made shocks are barely adequate for your minivan and have no business on a sports car. If you ever have a chance to look at the cheap tubing and pogo stick valving you will know why they have such a high failure rate. I put the Stagg on the back of an e36 once and they lasted only a few months and had terrible rebound (basically one stiff bounce with wheel hop that the car barely had with the aged stock units the Staggs replaced)

Neal, to answer your questions: coilovers are struts and shocks in one unit where the coil spring is over the strut, they have adjustable threaded collars to move the spring to adjust the height of the car to your preferred setting. Springs are just springs, they go on your struts that you already have and lowering springs have a shorter installed height and often a higher rate of compression. The inside of a shock or strut is gas charged or oil, there is a piston inside a tube and valves that control how fast and smooth the piston can move up and down the tube absorbing the bumps in the road and making sure your wheel doesn't jump and lose contact with the road. Go to the website howitworks and look up how shocks work for an excellent graphic describing this process.
The price difference in struts stems from quality of materials to make the tubes and pistons and the complexity and sophistication of the valves inside to get the best rate of rebound and movement to soak up the bumps. Not always but the more you pay the more sophisticated they are and cheapies are made from cheap steel tubing instead of aluminum with just one simple gas valve inside just like they were back in the 60s when cars rode like crap.