Filters are a compromise between catching small enough particles vs keeping a good oil flow rate especially when the oil is cold.

When I dissected the filter I would expect some of that magnetic type sludge to be caught in the filter element itself but the filter element seemed clear of those size particles so I can only assume they are passing through the filter element.

I'd rather catch this stuff with the magnets and not let it circulate through the bearings and stuck on the cylinder walls. Its like having 600 grit sand paper passing through the engine....no thanks, lets get rid of that stuff and have longer bearing life and higher compression for a longer time.

If you could pay $30 one time to make your engine last another 20,000 miles or perhaps much more, what would that be worth to you?
It will not even effect your warranty and with the magnets being external if it fails for some reason there is no chance of damaging anything.

That's the point! $30, DIY in 15min, no downside, only benefits. You can't loose on this one.

OMG,:eek: the horror!

LOL

I've seen them in transmissions, as you're expecting more particles there, but if you've got that much metal in your engine oil, you've got other problems.

Also, while it seems these are crazy strong magnets, I'd still be concerned that oil flow + a large pothole would release a clump of the sludge all at once, which would be more likely to cause a stroke. As opposed to Coumadin (frequent oil changes).

I recall from my Miata days some Blackstone comparisons in oil samples from magnetized filters, but I can't find it. (no pictures, so it didn't happen!)

All internal combustion engines generate a fine ferrous grit as a normal offshoot of parts wear and tear. A major problem is that most of this material is very fine, so fine that it can pass right through an OEM oil filter, and continue to accumulate over time.

Magnets on the outside of the filter housings see all the oil before it passes into the filter media (oil flow is from the outside to the inside in these filters), trapping this material. And if some compressed grit did pop loose, which I serious doubt happens, its first stop would be in the filter.

Serious racers have used filter magnets for years, both to limit the circulation of the grit, but also as a diagnostic tool for checking on the engine's general health.

One of the best DYI mods I have seen in quite a while. Elegant and purposeful. I haven't tinkered with the box in a while, this would be a great one to do as well as on other rigs.

Ordered my magnets today

Dwight, where did you get the heat shrink?

I don't believe the oil filter housing will get anywhere near that temp
The oil in the engine, sure, but not the outside of the filter housing

FYI: The Samarium Cobalt magnets are better for high temp locations.

Since Oil temps can reach about 240C the Neodium Magnets may be ok
on the outside of the filter as they tolerate up to 175 C, anything inside will need the SmCo which can stand 250 C temps without losing magnetism.

I used the SmCo magnets on the outside of the filter and they are proven to work, and I'll never have to replace them. I think the set of 7 were about $30, but I can't find the source where I got them from at the moment.

The maximum operating temperature for the neodymium magnets which Dwight linked is claimed to be 302°F. ;)

Time will tell...

You can grab the oil filter housing with your hand, even when the engine is hot, so it does not get anywhere near the oil temp

I doubt very much the oil reaches 240 deg C - I wouldn't want my oil more that 120 max....

JayG - you must have asbestos palms !!

I think he meant Fahrenheit :D

Mine will be inside the canister, so hopefully it will maintain strength at oil operating temp.

That was the most difficult to find, lots of folks have 4 inch heat shrink.....but they want you to buy a roll at several hundred dollars..............but ;

https://www.wirecare.com/product.asp?pn=WC53706020

Looks good. I have 2 done so far with the hose clamp. Heatshrink tubing looks like a great idea.
To initially apply the magnets, I used JB KwikWeld. I did them one after the other doing opposing sides of the housing. Even so, they started to slump towards each other a little until I put on zip-tie and the tape. The JB Weld alone may hold, but I am going to do the heatshrink.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1529/...ea2ed9eb_c.jpg

Ooops, correction those engine oil temps are 240 F not C, however the magnet temps are in deg C so 175 C = 347 F so the Neodium Magnets are also well within their range and will do just fine.

Thanks for catching that guys.

Good news
 

SO now once these super magnets magnetize or polarize the minute metal particles we have to figure out a way to turn them into Nanites and program them to constantly sacrifice themselves to constantly rebuild the IMS and other bearing surfaces and then our Boxsters will last forever....of course if we had that tecnology we could sell it and buy Porsche LLC :cheers:

Here's mine. 3/4" high temp disc, stuck on top of the existing disc which is a bit weak. I wanted to go 1" to fill the whole cup on the bottom of the filter element, but couldn't find 1" in high temp.
This thing is crazy strong...interested to see what it pulls out.

http://i875.photobucket.com/albums/a...56B55D86A6.jpg

http://i875.photobucket.com/albums/a...EB8E79010E.jpg

super fast shipping from KJM. Ordered Thursday and they just arrived !
Had a quick look at their website today and the magnets are on sale for 20% off today

If you want to save some $ on shipping, select USPS regular mail ($5.00 shipping) instead of their default fedex.