Replacing tranny fluid
 

2000 boxster s. I am reading that the lower diagonal brace and metal transmission cover need to be removed. Unless I am reading this incorrectly, the rear sway bar then needs to be lowered. Am I going to screw anything up removing the two bolts attaching pan cover to the aluminum support bars? Will the pan come off and go back on easily with the six bolts removed? Is it really a 1hr job? Anything else I can screw up/ruin besides fluid levels?
Thanks,
David

This should help; Porsche Boxster Differential / Manual Transmission Fluid Change - 986 / 987 (1997-08) - Pelican Parts Technical Article

It's been a few years ago, but I've done this task. I definitely don't remember messin' with sway bars.

Do you recall it taking only an hour? Trying to determine the time needed. Thanks

I have a 2000S and did my transaxle fluid change. I had it up on 4 jack stands, wheels off (was bleeding brakes or something) took off the diagonal sheet metal brace and the two long aluminum pieces that go with the diamond shaped sheet metal brace. I did not have to loosen or move the rear sway bar at all. Once everything was ready it was a 20-30 minute job to drain and fill the fluid. I do not recall having any trouble getting my sheet metal brace back on. I ha e heard with some folks it spreads and they have to get a winching strap to draw the sides back together.

If you added in jacking up the car on stands, removing the brace, dran and fill, put back together and lower the car, for me maybe 90 minutes or so. I am slow :)

Make dang sure you are loosening the right drain and fill port. There may be a nearby plug that when loosened may drop something loose in the trans and you have to take it apart.

Thanks, I am really slow so I'll allocate 2 hrs. Thanks

Just something to add, make sure you undo the fill plug first!! If you drain all the fluid out and for whatever reason you can't get the fill plug undone you are **** outta luck.

I did this over the summer. Use jack stands, not ramps, or you could throw the alignment off and/or have issues reinstalling the metal plate. You do not remove the sway bar. It took me 2-3 hours, but I took my time.

All good advise
 

Not a tough job, but take your time.....and yes be sure the fill plug will come out before you drain it.

A couple of simple suggestions ,but I am not an expert:
1. saturate the fill plug with PB Blaster or better penetrating fluid for hours. Do not use excessive force to remove it -just reapply the penetrating fluid.
2. with the drain plug removed and all the fluid drained ,insert your finger in the drain hole and try to feel for a disc shaped magnet. Gather up as much of the 'goop' on the magnet and from the bottom of the case to examine.
Lots of goop means the seals on the main bearing have failed and the goop is the grease that should be in the bearing - yes the same fool who specified the IMSB also did the bearings in the gearbox? The bearing will fail because of inadequate lubrication because it is above the level of the fluid.
Wash the goop with solvent/gasoline and look for shiny gold colored flakes and particles. This is your 2nd gear dog wearing. Fitting an aftermarket detent (search) may help if the part is not excessively worn. If you do not do this ,you will have the 2nd gear pop-out problem.That requires a gearbox rebuild to fix.
Check the engine mounts for leakage and check the front mount for cracks. Look for leaks from the w/p.
Be careful about selecting the most appropriate gbox oil.Lots of discussion about that here. Basically, the factory fill -Shell - is expensive but works !

The car shifts great. I am just thinking about changing because car is 15 years old with 49k and not sure what previous owner did.