Oem Shock life
 

I bought an 02 almost a year ago and although it rides and handles great I'm hearing some faint rattles from rear suspension area. Raised car up and looked for loose suspension components but everything's snug/tight. Car has 65K miles. Are my shocks worn? What is the average life of these shocks? It's mostly when going over rough surfaces and never on highways.

My car has 145000 km and one of the rear oem shocks has started leaking. Replacement scheduled for this winter. I'm thinking I'll have a go at doing it myself. I bought a spring compressor and I found a couple of DIY guides, including the one in the Pelican book. Would be nice to find a good video or two, or even a more detailed guide with lots of pics.

Worn shocks usually don't cause rattles - there is something loose or worn in the suspension somewhere that is only apparent under driving loads.

In regards to shocks, most people replace around 80K-100K miles. Over 100K they are pretty well worn out.

Rear Control arms....easy fix

Yep, this fixed my rattle from the rear end on my 2000 S with 50k miles. Plus, the car feels much more planted now in turns.


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Could also be a worn engine mount.

+1 on the control arms

Hey @Pdwight / @AaronPDX / j.fro and anyone else that's done this... I also have a clunking back end (hehe) and just want to check that the part you replaced to fix it was #8 in the diagram below...?

http://www.renntech.org/forums/uploa...1255694856.jpg

Several seemingly random variations on the 'Control Arms' name seem to be used interchangeably between parts #8, #9 and #17 depending on where I'm looking, so want to be sure I buy the right bit!

Thanks!

So, On the control arms which end usually goes? is it the bushings that wear or the metal fatigues?

Yes
 

And it does not matter...when it goes you can not usually feel the slop....you must replace it

While I agree that your issue may very well be the rear control (track) arms, one other source of rattles, front or rear is the drop links. Easy to inspect and cheap to replace.

What exactly do you check on the rear control arms to know if they are good or not?

Hi oldskool, yes I replaced #8. You'll also see that referred to as trailing or track arm sometimes. I was able to diagnose it by hitting it with a rubber mallet. Instead of a dull thud, it made a metallic noise. However, dghii is correct. It could easily be your drop links.


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Rattle over bumpy roads will be your best clue I think.
I don't know if there is any easy way to check but to remove it and look at the rubber boot.

Lapister,
Hi neighbor ! I also live in Pasadena Ca. Suggest you find a good Indie to ensure you get a knowledgeable diagnosis. Parts are expensive -particularly if they aren't worn and you replace them!
If you get the car up on a rack ,heave on the suspension parts and you'll soon find any excessive 'play' or rattles.
Check the drive shaft bolts and boots while you are under there and look for coolant leaks from the water-pump!
Check oil leaks from the bell-housing.
You really need the kind of Indie who will give you a knowledgeable 'guided tour' under the car so you can see and verify issues. Many won't do this for "insurance " reasons.

Gelbster, Yeah, I know the woes of boxster ownership. Researched a long time before buying. It's been really good to me. Recently did the 74mm TB and 987 Airbox conversion so I do wrench too. So, while doing a cursory check of my rear suspension I came across this little 6 inch long by about 1/4 inch rod that seems to be rattling under my car. Can anybody tell me what it's for? It's the rod just below the blue line ahead of axle. Hey Gelbster we should compare notes sometime. I'm in East pasadena. We should do a run!http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1445801066.jpg

Update : I replaced both trailing arms in the rear with TRW parts (shipped from UK to Oz and still half the price of buying here!), all the banging over bumps is gone, I'm happy!

Lapister, looks like you have a worn drop link. They're about 6-8 inches long and not too thick and these run vertically from your wheel hub to the stabilizer bar. They make a clunk or rattle when they're worn. When you buy parts, avoid cheaper versions from say, DeutcheParts. They're crap and won't last six months. I finally went back to factory Porsche parts on my drop links, bought from Sunset Imports in Oregon (10% over their hard cost is what they sell stuff for).

Gelbster and Lapister - I am in South Pas. We should definitely meet up. :)

By the way, I personally know most of the indy mechanics in the Pasadena area and House Automotive on Walnut is my racing sponsor.