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-   -   Tire Issues - Why? (http://986forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58871)

The Radium King 09-25-2015 10:19 PM

i'm running -1.5 on my fronts and the overall wear i see from the track greatly offsets the street wear i see from the increased camber (yoko ad08s). well worth it from an ecomonic pov as well as the handling benefits.

R8 Pilot 09-26-2015 12:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Radium King (Post 467738)
i'm running -1.5 on my fronts and the overall wear i see from the track greatly offsets the street wear i see from the increased camber (yoko ad08s). well worth it from an ecomonic pov as well as the handling benefits.

So I tracked every car I owned and I usually run at -1.8 on the front and around -1.2 on the back.

-1.5 should be sufficient..but then as you probably know it also depends on your toe in or out

Toe in and out effects edge wear as well.

The only way to really know if your set up is maximised with the limitations of your car is to get the best bit of help which is a tyre temp gauge.

This helped me a lot by tweaking my suspension settings so that the end result was the temperature across the tyre was much more consistent and even and there where no large hot spots in one particular part of the tread.

I picked mine up for around $120.

jsceash 09-26-2015 10:53 AM

You realize he running a 300AA tire, Which is a great street tire in rain and dry but add a 1/2" lower side wall which on a stiff tire already reduces side wall flex as you start to push time and speed your going to have issues. Last the stiff tire he's on won't tolerate much - chamber. The proof is that he blistered of a set. The Pilot Sport PS2 are a much better choice, Hankook RS3, RE11, RE71, and others
Better yet buy a set of beater 18" rims and keep running the Super Sports on the road and get a tire like the RS3 RE71 or RE11, PS2 or Pilot Sport Cup put them on at home and drive to the track.

Racer Boy 09-28-2015 08:35 PM

Not to be a stickler here, but that tire wasn't blistered. That is something completely different from what is shown in the OP's picture. That tire that is just worn out.

Chunking happens when a fully treaded tire overheats, and chunks of the tread separate from the tire. Blistering is when a racing slick tire with no tread overheats, and the "tread" (which is not in fact treaded) develops blisters.

jsceash 09-29-2015 04:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Racer Boy (Post 468095)
Not to be a stickler here, but that tire wasn't blistered. That is something completely different from what is shown in the OP's picture. That tire that is just worn out.

Chunking happens when a fully treaded tire overheats, and chunks of the tread separate from the tire. Blistering is when a racing slick tire with no tread overheats, and the "tread" (which is not in fact treaded) develops blisters.

Sorry but the picture in the OP post are tread blisters that have pealed. Blister are areas where the layers in the tires construction separate most often from over heating. They can happen in a treaded or un-treaded tires. Looks the same to me, and the OP post show gravel graining from cooling down while still rolling on the asphalt

https://sites.google.com/site/tracks...steredtyre.jpg

stephen wilson 09-30-2015 02:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jsceash (Post 468245)
Sorry but the picture in the OP post are tread blisters that have pealed. Blister are areas where the layers in the tires construction separate most often from over heating. They can happen in a treaded or un-treaded tires. Looks the same to me, and the OP post show gravel graining from cooling down while still rolling on the asphalt

https://sites.google.com/site/tracks...steredtyre.jpg

That picture doesn't look the same to me. I agree with Racer, the 3 pictures by the OP look like the rubber is worn through to the carcass. Look at the strip of heavy wear on the outer edge. Chunking usually happens with taller tread blocks overheating, his tires don't have any grooves or tread left where the damage is located.


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