clutch cost
 

what should I be prepared to pay a German car specialist to replace clutch 2000 986 S....... And if I decide to upgrade the IMS bearing to ceramic how much more cash will that add? Peace to yall :cheers:

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wow, saved a whole $89.25 what a bargain

Hahaha - those are actually all very fair prices.

Clutch kit and pilot bearing $744.53
Dual mass flywheel with bolt kit $1,036.03
Air Oil Separator with tube $121.34
Oil line assembly $68.14
Rear Main Seal $26.50
PP Bolts $5.52
Oil Change $56.00
Transmission oil change $21.32
Labor for 8 previous items $1,089.00

Total $3,168.38

How often do you have to change the clutch? Every 30k miles? 40k?

That's kind of like asking "How long is a piece of string?"

It really depends on how you drive
Could be 30k , could be 100k+

Change it when it starts to slip

I had the clutch and flywheel replaced at 90,000KM because clutch pedal was very hard to depress $2100.
Bearing was fine and left alone.
I do not track my car.

We have customer's with 200K on the factory unit, and others who are on their third by 100K. Has more to do with driving style and environment than miles.

When people refer to has to do with their driving styles, what does that comprise of?

Are there certain driving styles that are easier or harder on clutches/transmissions? revving high, racing, engine breaking, "not knowing how to drive a standard transmission vehicle"/ mashing gears...

Driving style covers a lot of sins, some people ride their clutches, particularly on hill stops; others beat up the clutch because they drive in urban environments (traffic light to traffic light). Some are harder on them because they spend a lot of time on road course tracks.

Just had the flywheel and clutch done last week in the UK at an independent Porsche garage. Total bill was £1250

Just shy of $2000 earlier this year for clutch, flywheel IMS and RMS. I'm in Delaware where everything is cheeper.

When a clutch/transmission starts slipping what does that feel like? Does it mean anything if occasionally it might slightly harder to get into a certain gear?

I have only had the car for a couple weeks and just want some clarity.


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A typical symptom of a slipping clutch is the RPM goes up without a corresponding speed increase.

Sorry for the stupid question, but do we have to change/service clutch (or any equivalent) on a Tiptronic? :confused:

Another symptom of a weak clutch is it releases way high on the pedal (like almost before it runs out of room when you take your foot off the clutch).

I had the clutch and RMS changed on my CSS this spring - $1700. Right around 30K mi. I use my CSS for DEs and I don't know how to heel-toe so I was abusing the clutch with high rev downshifts. Since I'm now $1700 lighter, I've gone to using more brakes to slow me down. A set of pads is $165. The math works out better.

My clutch shot craps after a DE w/e at my local track and 9 days before I was supposed to leave for a 3 day DE at COTA. The folks at Woodhouse did an excellent job of working me into their schedule and got it done at 5pm the day before I left. I really had to cross my fingers that everything was done correctly, but it was and I didn't have any issues to, at, or back from COTA.

No, the Tip uses a torque converter in place of a clutch and only requires fluid changes.

I think I paid $4k. This included new OEM flywheel the old was close to ashtray condition. RMS was upgraded with the Cayenne unit and both rear axle boots were serviced both were torn not unsual given the mileage. LNE dual row bearing and the requisite oil change to keep it all kosher. Lots of weekends in NYC meant only 70k miles on original and I still suck at clutching out in reverse.

I paid 1515$ for clutch, flywheel, IMS LNE, oil, +miscellaneous.
But this is without labor !

Bought the clutch un flywheel from rock auto, the cheapest I found.

Thanks for the answer.

I just did my 2000 S. Paid $3k for clutch, flywheel, LN IMS, RMS, Clutch slave cylinder, Oil change, fresh brake fluid and coolant.

I only saved about $1000 doing it myself but I enjoyed doing it. Parts from Pelican in a master clutch kit.

When I picked up my '03 in '09 with 80k miles, the clutch was hard to depress. The seller told me that is a sign that the clutch needs replacement. How/why does a worn clutch make it more difficult to depress? I'm currently at 92k miles, clutch feels the same. No slippage.

So many high price tags. I went with a Stage 2 Pressure Plate and a 6 puck sprung disk. Spent 400 plus fluids. Was around mid 500s when done. I didn't do ims or rms as they were good. However since it's a 30 minute job to drop the trans I'm not to worries about doing either here soon. Probably will replace lots of suspension bushings while car is up.

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It cost me around 4,500 in Denver, NC by Porsche specialist. 2nd gear became a problem and the transmission had to be removed disassembled and new synchros went in springs. The mechanic rebuilt the transmission himself. As soon as I left the garage the same problem showed up on 2nd gear again. This time he had to tweak the cable and adjust the spring and problem solved. I also installed a short throw shifter that took a little to get used to.

I have nicknamed my car my mistress, god knows it costs just as much in pampering her.

I'm focusing on my transmission now. I also have the 2nd gear that Porsche of Albuquerque doesn't understand the quote "Its a common problem with the 6spd" lol. Yet you google "Porsche 2.." and Google fills in the rest lol. Why? Because its a very common search string.

My 2nd gear when I got the car was hard to get in. After some fun with a cutie pie in a SS Maro, 2nd gear is no more. IDK if its linkage, or fork, or the gear itself is totally smashed.

Quality Porsche Parts offered me a 30k for 800 and a 80k for 600. I've also been talking with some locals about it, rebuilt for around 1500 or doing it myself. I've heard about special tools being required, and I've heard that the only special tool is a press. Which I have access to numerous high pressure presses.

I'm thinking I would like to get the cash to at least buy the used transmission, but spend a weekend tearing it down to inspect it to hopefully fix it myself. I've built numerous transmissions, changed syncro's, gearing, final drives etc.

The Clutch itself was easy. A few places sell nice aftermarket clutches for much lower than a lot of people are paying, I didn't do OEM. I went with a stronger pressure plate and a 6 puck sprung disk. A tad choppy at low rpm engages but rev the engine just a lil and it has smooth engages. The transmission itself is about a 30 minute job to get out, its super easy. Spending thousands of dollars for labor is just insane. But I come from a long line of mechanics and building high hp drag and SCCA Cars so its no state secret to me to pull out a wrench and get to work. Anyone with mild experience can have the transmission out in an hour using a couple floor jacks, its not too heavy.

So in all, its a decent weekend job to save a few grand. Coming from the world I have lived, I don't see any reason to spend such money, just because it has the Porsche Badge.

Cali Tom,
This thread drifted to include mention of gear selection problems. One of those problems - 2nd gear pop-out can be addressed quite inexpensively if you act early/preemptively. Just search for 2nd gear detent.

clutch job cost
 

I know im brining up a 2 year old thread, but I was doing search on this issue and thought I'd post regarding my current state of affairs with this little mistress :matchup::cool:

Bought the car a year ago, only put 2500 miles on her since getting her home, had noticed there was a different feel here on the clutch than my 2000 S had, even at 90k miles that clutch was solid -
I bought this car from a older gentleman, he only put 36k miles on it in 20 years( its a 1997) finally decided it might have a slave cylinder issue took it in to independent service (George the head mechanic was with Porsche for 45 years!) - so for sure its the disc and pressure plate just worn since the previous owner must have been really hard on it slipping it a lot - in my 35 years of driving , owner of 10 standard transmission cars most sports cars I have never burnt out a clutch , ever! I have had cars go well over 150k miles on original clutch SO you never know about the original owner. -
Now my quote for the job with new RMS is $1400 with out the flywheel - if we do that oem its $750 more (no extra labor cost) and I am looking at doing the IMS while there since its only $700 or so more while there - probably doing the Cylindrical bearing like the Vertex - George says hes done over a hundred of those with none of them coming back or failing - I know the LN dual row has a good rating too etc but they still only warranty it and recommend replacement before 50k miles - will see but will all the chatter on forums all over the place you have to go with what the experts recommend - either LN or the Cylinder type both have almost a zero failure-

wonder if anyone here has experience with the Vertex type or (don't know brand)
either way with out flywheel im into it for $2100 including IMS, RMS etc, OR just under $3000 if we have to do the flywheel , but hard not to do the ims even with a early dual row that hardly ever failed- hate to take the chance. ,

Phil

Since you brought up an old thread, I've learned how to heel-toe and have been doing it for the last 2 DE seasons.

For the DIY mechanics you could do all the work for just the price of parts which would be more like $2K from internet sources and might take 2 days of your time, which would be worth $3k of savings.

Is your time worth $1500 a day, ~200/hr?

You could take a nice Porsche engine building course with those savings :)

When a clutch starts to go you will know it. It feels funky and the revs go up with no immediate acceleration if you punch the gas (Slipping clutch)

Symptoms started occurring rather suddenly over one week of daily driving, as I think the throw out bearing was binding occasionally as well due to wear (Funky clutch engagement).

I think between myself and the former owners the previous clutch lasted about 35K miles.

I did the work myself, first time ever doing a clutch job, and it took about 6 hours, though I was working really slow. Next time will likely be a 2-3 hour job, now that I have that stupid security bit for the 1 transmission bolt and know how and where everything attaches.

Wow thats a great price.

clutch cost etc
 

So in the end I chose to leave it at the shop and have the whole thing done, - yes I could probably do this myself, and save a grand but in the end there were several things to consider- one is that it looks like the IMS is close to failure, and the slave replacement is not so easy on the 97 models, as Porsche changed the connector, they don't make the original design and it hast to be replace which means replacing the whole line, new coupler MC,slave etc. - I actually thought it was this first not the flywheel and disc, but here we are, I don't have the full final bill but having this all done a the same time saves a lot on labor
$1400 for RMS, pressure plate and disc - new flywheel(OEM SACHS) adds $750, no labor , so now at $2100., ok now we add IMS of $600 for cylinder type dual row, one extra hour labor $100, $2800 + some tax etc and im expecting $3,000 - clutch hydraulic upgrade new line MC SC etc is $300 plus another $100 labor -
in the end, I guess I could have saved about $1200 labor cost to do it all myself, but I don't have the IMS puller tools and its done by a master mechanic that has been working for and on Porsche since before my 914 was new. I have to say am glad it will be done,, done right and warranty to boot.

BUT that was my budget for new coil overs and exhaust!!! that will all have to wait another year or two,.