Potential 2002 Boxster Purchase
 

Hello everyone,

I've been looking for a Boxster for some time now, and I believe that I've found a good candidate.

It's a 2002 Boxster (non s) with 90k miles

Apparently the original engine blew at 36k miles and was replaced by Porsche.

The seller recently put in an LM ims, new clutch & flywheel.

Apparently one of the spark plug tubes is leaking slightly, but as per the owner no other mechanical issues.

I think I can get the car for around 12k.

I'm going to see the car tomorrow, and if I like it, I'm planning to give a deposit pending PPI.

I found some local shops to the car with good reviews from the Porsche community- what should I expect a comprehensive PPI on one of these cars to include & cost? Is there anything that I want to be sure they will do?

Any input here is greatly appreciated. I'm relatively mechanically savvy, and can usually pick out the bad eggs, but I want to ensure that I've picked the right car and am not walking into $xxxx of repairs immediately.

Thanks!

I bought an '02 base last year with 136,000 miles. Even at 90,000 miles, I would expect to do a suspension overhaul. Shocks are not cheap and then there are all the track arms and control arms, etc. It quickly adds up. Also consider brakes and tires and condition of convertible top. I'm sure some of those things will come up on a PPI but just know that the suspension parts add up fast, even doing it yourself. I'm slowly doing suspension work a little at a time so I'm not dumping a lot of money at once. Oh, and that $2000 a year maintenance that you may hear of, it's true. Good luck with the car if you go with it! It is a fun car!

Just my opinion, but 12 k is way to much for this car, you can pick up an S for about 5k to 7 k,

I was thinking about the suspension--- I figure there are a few thousand tied up in that. I'd probably do it a little at a time as well.

I had also been thinking about brakes and tires. Apparently the front pads and rotors were just recently done. Leaving me to likely do the rears.

The car also has new rear tires.

I had planned to budget 2k/yr in maintenance.


Essentially I'm hoping to here from you guys about some things I wouldn't know to look for unless I owned a Boxster!! Thanks in advance for any input.

Comments post test drive:

1. The clutch had just been replaced, but it felt strange to me- it was as if the pedal was sticky- it squeaked a bit (the pedal) and the clutch seemed to take up at the end of the pedal travel.

2. While the 2.7 cars may be faster on paper, it felt slower to me because of the incredibly long gearing- I think 2nd goes to 70mph+... So essentially you aren't in the power band until you're speeding--- I didn't find that very ideal in comparison to the 2.5's gearing

3. I found the 2.7 to be significantly less visceral of an experience in comparison to the 2.5. I would attribute this to the gearing & sound- the 2.5 seemed loud to me (in a good way) all the time, while the 2.7 wasn't making any noise below 4-5k

4. The shifter was not as crisp as other boxsters I've driven. It had more "slop", and was a little bit sticky in between the left side and center of neutral.

5. The owner just replaced the front motor mount, but it felt like there was still some movement in the drivetrain- particularly when shifting or getting on and off the gas. I didn't notice this in other boxsters I drove-- could it be the trans mounts??

6. There was some vibration through the steering wheel on the highway, and it seemed to wander a bit. It felt like when my car had bad ball joints.

Otherwise the car felt good, the engine ran very well & it was incredibly clean both on the inside and exterior. The interior is such an upgrade in comparison to the early cars.

Even considering that though, I think that I enjoyed driving the early cars more.

This is an interesting comment - I had the same experience back in 2012 when I was test driving Boxsters. I only drove a handful, but by far the best shifting of them was a 99 2.5 Boxster 5 speed - it shifted like butter, every gear change was silky smooth. The 2001 2.7 5 speed I drove was different, not nearly as smooth, still good but in comparison not as smooth. It had a lot more power than the 2.5. The 2000S that I ended up getting had the worst shifting of them all (still not bad, but relatively speaking) but that resolved with a gear oil change and upgrading to a 9x7 shifter. When I took the old shifter out it looked like a dog had chewed some of the rubber pieces which I believe were binding up.

are you talking pounds or dollars?

I'm in the states--- $

Brakes are a relatively low cost item and a very easy DIY

Squeaky clutch pedal could be a failing clutch booster spring, again an easy and low cost DIY

Vibration could be wheel balance and or alignment

Yes, I know, but k9dbm is in Gibraltar and they use pounds

Okay- so I guess it would need a rebuild. What did that overhaul run you, if I might ask?

I am in England, we use pounds Stirling, at the moment 1 pound = 1.687 U.S. Dollar and 1.262 euro, therefore your 12000equates to 7100 pounds of US dollars or 9500 pounds if euros, so still a little dear compared to UK, it would be about 5000 in our pounds

$12,000 = £7,689 and you said £5k-£7k, so...:confused:

Anyway, $12k is bit high, especially for a car with possible bad motor/transmission mounts and alignment (and probably suspension) issues.

I agree about the power band...S has more power, but where are you supposed to use it without breaking the law or tracking your car (and therefore dumping tons of $ into tires, suspension and brakes much more often)?
I prefer to use that peppy power band on a daily basis with the 2.5, 5 speed. Fast acceleration, fast and smooth shifts. :D
(also a dual row IMSB :p)

Agreed, I did say 5 - 7 thousand, if you lowered the high 1200 then this would fall in the 5- 7 bracket,

I bought a 2001 S model late last year with only 75K miles on it for $10,900. Looked absolutely stunning inside and out. Over 10K now in reconditioning it. At this vehicle age expect to sink some dollars in it getting it up to snuff. And even then it is going to have that vintage feel. No glove box, no glass rear window, controls in odd places, no connectivity for your cell phone, mp3's etc. But with the right mind set this vintage feel is part of the allure. But if you are going into it expecting instant reliability and no issues then chances are you should move on to a 987 model and spend more up front.

List of items so far:

LN IMS bearing
RMS
Cam plug
Clutch
Front motor mount
Three of four Cats.
Two of four O2 sensors
New Muffler
New brakes all around with new rotors.
Front trunk release actuator
Four new tires. Old ones were dry rotted.
Air Oil Separator (smoke on startup)
MAF sensor
Spark Plugs
Transmission fluid change.
Oil change
Right half shaft (torn CV boots)
Front struts and springs (used)
Instrument Cluster
Short shift kit

Still worried about the Water Pump and Expansion tank but so far no problems.

Bottom line, buyer beware and expect some investment.