Stupid question: I just jump these and turn the car on? And if it doesn't work, I try to measure the fuel pressure? Any suggestion on what tool/brand to use?

Yes, just jump the two female holes with a jumper wire. Turn the key on ( may not need to) look at presure gauge or with proper safety attire tap the shrrader valve at the fuel rail. A strong force of Fuel should spray out.

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So I did jump those connectors after removing the relay. The pump comes on. As soon as I plug, i hear a whirring noise from the engine (which I thought it was weird because the pump is on the front, right?). However, putting my head near the battery, I can clear hear it on.

The car did not turn on, though. I don't have any equipment to check the fuel pressure yet, but the pump seems to be fine. This is what looks like:
http://youtu.be/kDAgZ362qls

I still have the P0102 - Mass air flow sensor short circuit/open circuit error after erasing the fault a couples times. Could be it?

Absolutely. The MAF is what tells the ECU how much fuel to inject, so definitely could be the issue.

Sorry...I guess I missed the MAF code on your first post.

No problem. I'm learning a bunch. So, the MAF should I bother "cleaning" it or re-sitting it or it's usually a new part I have to get?

Fuel pump is in the front, easy to hear in the front no question about that, I'm deaf as a post and can hear that when jumping the relay. Not sure why you'd hear anything from the back. You sure you're jumping the correct relay?

If it says "shorted or open", check the connector. Other than that, replace.
I guess you could try cleaning first, but I'd bet that won't help.

I can hear the pump in the front. There's a whirring in the back (i have the access to engine open behind the sit so it's very easy to hear). I read a couple other people also hear something in the back when the pump.
I do believe I got it right. I have the relay on my hands. This is it:

http://i.imgur.com/la9Ii9L.jpg

Thanks a bunch for your help so far.

Any opinion which MAF should I buy? Is this good enough? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CO317M?colid=37GW3JQRWEZSS



Also, I installed a bulldog keyless entry 1 year ago. Any chance that I ****************ed it up and that's why i'm having short circuit around my car? (Far fetch, but trying to rule out everything)

Clear the known codes it's throwing first. Then trouble shoot if needed from there.
I just went though no start and FP. It thunked and made a sound but no fuel pressure. If you're getting a code like a MAF, clear that first.

I think i cleared the MAF code 3 times over the last 2 weeks. It keeps coming back. I will clear it again tomorrow and see how fast it comes back.

If you have a maf code i would try to start the car with the maf disconnected (unplugged) and see if there is any change

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I erased the code and removed the MAF connector. The code didn't come back. But I think it was intermittent anyways. Not sure it is conclusive.

I recorded another video of the action: http://youtu.be/E5MA9wEHCZg


I'm leaving the car for now and I will try a couple times again to see if the MAF code comes back.

Some updates (work has been crazy, no time to work on the car):

I took the alternator out and brought it to Autozone and OReilleys. Both place tested and said that that the alternator is fine, and so is the Voltage Regulator. I put it back in.

Since I was inside the car already, I changed the belt and the air filter. The belt wasn't so bad, but the filter was.

I keep resetting the codes, and the MAF warnings keep coming back. I heard that it could be the battery being disconnected or some electrical problem somewhere else, but if the Durametric is to be believed, the MAF is bad.

These are the errors that I believe keep repeating:

P1062 - Supply voltage open circuit
P0102 - Mass airflow snesor short circuit/open circuit
P0112 - Intake air temp sensor


I will disconnect the MAF again tomorrow and try again.

Late update for people who ends up in this thread looking for a solution to the same problem.
It was the CPS (crankshaft position sensor)

I bought this one on Amazon for $90 and it works wonders. Car never has problem turning on again.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006K8ZHOU

That should have made your tach not move. That's the give away for the CPS. Glad you're wife stayed with you.

Weird. Tach always moved when I was having the issue.
I am 99% it was the CPS. I changed a bunch of things through out 2 months and nothing seemed to resolve it.
Changed the CPS and the car immediately behaved better and never gave any issue. It's been a month of 2 as of right now.

I replaced it with a brand new one, but I feel like the old one was fine, just very dirty. There was a thick layer of oil/gunk on it. It feels like it is a part that shouldnt break.
Anyways, $90 was a cheap fix.

Not sure it's a good thing.