Central Control Flap Position - possible problem with the control motor

[BFeller]

I have a question about the central control flap. After suffering the usual problem with the foam falling off the blend door that problem was repaired. The cooling system was bled using an Uview AirLift. However, the system was still not generating a lot of heat. It is blowing cold air. I did some additional troubleshooting and and noticed the In Dash Temperature sensor was dirty. It is not clean, but does make a loud buzzing sound. A replacement is on the way. Digging deeper into the system and checking the flaps for proper movement led me to checking the Central Control flap.

Currently it does not seem possible to adjust any of the buttons on the AC control unit to make that flap close completely. When is does try to close, it sounds like the motor is trying to close it off, it moves, stops and the motor continues to whir. Dropping the blower motor and removing the passenger side vents and ducting have provided a good view. I can move it manually to completely closed, so nothing appears to jamming the flap.

My questions are: That flap should close completely? Would a failed In Dash Temperature effect the amount that the flap closes? Lastly, I can see the motor and put a hand on it - does anyone know if it could be replaced without dropping the Heater Air Box?

[BFeller]

I swapped in a junkyard sourced dash sensor. The problem did not go away. I still get cool air when the heat should be on. I decided to do additional tests since the sensor swapped in is not a known good part. As a test the outside air intake was completely blocked off with a piece of cardboard under the cabin air filter. I mistakenly referred to that as the Central Control Flap in my earlier post. The idea being that Fresh Air Intake Flap being blocked would answer my question about the flap allowing in to much air to heated. The was no change in the amount lack of heat. The system does pump out an awesome amount of cold air. When pressing the snowflake button the air gets colder. There is also coolant flowing through the heater core. When the blend door was done, so was the water pump and front motor mount. The system was refilled using an Airlift. I am thinking about pulling the power wire on the air conditioning compressor clutch to keep the air from coming on. Redneck diagnostics - problem is this still won't tell me why the system may always be cooling. I am not sold on clutch disconnect helping - it does seem that when hitting the snowflake button the RPM changes as it engages.

[BFeller]

I decided against trying to disconnect the air conditioning compressor. I did bleed the system using the process detailed in the Bentley Manual and at Pedro's website. A big air bubble pushed through. A test drive provided much more heat for a while. I switched to Auto Climate control and afterwards it seemed like there was less heat. When I got back there was evidence of steam on the trunk lid above the coolant fill. A new cap and o rings for the bleeder valve are on order. I am also in possession of a pressure tester of the coolant system. So I will replace the o rings then pressure test the system.