Or you could consider roller bearings or .. or...


:D:D:D

Yeah I was thinking of just waiting until the rotors cut through the IMS. :p

I don't have the tools to do the job. I could buy them, but with the cheapest price on the IMS Solution at $1,698.75 then buying all the tools and replacement fluids I'd probably be close to the $4,000 mark.

Always wanted to know if you had your IMSB upgraded?

That crosses my mind too, spending $4k and the bearing is fine.

I like your thinking! :D

What I've read (and I'm not saying it is correct) is that Mezger (Metzger, Metsger) designed the 2.7L motor and there are two versions of it, a three chain and a five chain. I have not been able to find out how to tell the difference. I recall that I heard about the motors and how hardy they are from a post I read from Jake Raby. Perhaps he can enlighten us on the 2.7L.
I've seen the prices on used low miles ones drop because no one wants them they all seem to prefer an upgrade to the 3.2 or 3.4. It's the same with the 2.5L, used ones are appearing for under $2K.
I've also wondered if the 2.9 would fit in an early Boxster, what is involved in the install, how much a used one is going for and how well they are built.
I would be looking for a plug and play swap.

I agree with THStone, post #9. I just bought my 2003 Boxster S Tiptronic this month, with 102,500 miles on it and I knew that the IMS bearing was an issue so I researched this topic as much as possible before making the decision to buy the car. The majority of failures seem to occur well before such elevated mileage is attained, so a well-used car may be a better prospect than a low mileage garage queen. I am an eternal optimist, and if 20% fail, I see it as 80% being just fine, and I kind of like those odds.

The Boxster (and 996) M96 was either a 5 chain (1997-2002) or 3 chain (2003-04). The Mezger engine is a whole different animal, from the TT or GT2:

Technology explained:

Think race car engine (i.e. $$$$$$$$).

Thanks Norm, excellent information and clears up my confusion. I would still opt for a 2.7L as a replacement for a 2.5L or paying $4K for an IMS upgrade. I'd drive the 2.5 until it died then pick up a low mileage 2.7L and had a few hp to boot.:cheers:

not if you spec racing guys keep buying up all the 2.5's!

You got a deal there.

Would the IMS Guardian trigger in time to save the engine? Install that and the screw on type oil filter to keep the debris out of the engine?

Geez, just checked on the IMS Guardian and it's $439.00 for the system.

I have a magnetic drain plug. What about doing the spin on filter, that's supposed to keep metal from getting into the engine, right?

No. In order for the system to alarm, there has to be a minimum amount of ferrous debris circulating in the engine, which means it is already all over the inside of the engine, which has to come out and apart.

While the spin on filter will do a better job of trapping materials than the OEM style, you need to remember that the debris starts off inside the engine and gets picked up by the oil, and carried to the filter; so it is already spread around before the filter even gets a chance to remove it.

Neither of these products are designed to prevent catastrophic failures, that requires preemptive steps by the owner, such as replacing the IMS before it starts to crap out. Both the Guardian and the spin on filter can help reduce the amount of damage from an IMS failure, but cannot prevent it from happening.

I think you should get the IMSB done.
If you're going to keep it, you could easily get another 100k out of that engine.

I've had mine done and one big advantage is that I enjoy driving the car so much more, now that I'm not always wondering in the back of my mind about the IMSB destroying the engine.

Just picture yourself being in the middle of nowhere with a detonated engine. That would be a bad day. I know it can happen anyway but, I feel a lot better with that extra insurance.

Hope that helps! :cheers:

Just because you have a high mileage engine doesn't mean your home free with the IMSB. Partial bearing seal failure is one of the main reasons IMSBs break. Leaking seals allow oil to wash out the bearing's grease over an extended time period, but the oil flow through the leaking seal isn't enough to fully lubricate the bearing.

Low mileage cars see more failures because their seals sit in acidic oil for extended times and degrade. For various reasons, seals degrade more slowly in high mileage cars so one sees failures happening less. Eventually, high mileage cars will see problems too its just nobody seems to know when.

If you do nothing else, it's probably a good idea to remove the outer seal of the OEM IMSB when your in there changing the clutch. Personally, I wouldn't and didn't stop there when I changed my clutch. If your doing the work yourself, it just the cost of parts that you're saving. I'd bet some Forum member would be willing to lend or rent the special tools to you.

Giller, mind telling me who your Indy is?

I've decided not to do the IMSB upgrade. I want to see how many miles I get out of it, at 117k miles right now.

Honestly, I think there is way too much fear mongering going on about the IMSB. Not the part that if it goes, it's a catastrophic engine failure. It's the people saying you need to replace it right now, that is the fear mongering.

An engine is going to eventually give out. One day I will replace this engine, that's a given because I plan to keep this car until I die or it doesn't get involved in an accident.


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Mike at German Autotech in Waterloo. Busy little shop, lots of good reviews online.