+1 or buy an inexpensive scope and do it yourself. If the piston is damaged or there is anything in the cylinder that should not be, the cost for repair is very likely more than the car is worth. something beat up that spark plug and it wasn't a non functional valve. Pulling the valve cover off is more work than just scoping the cylinder.

That's way I'm saying pull the spark plug. If it looks like that he has bigger issues. If not then fixing it might be worth it.

15 grand for a special tool
 

I think you need to talk to someone else....drop the oil , remove the plugs.....it is not kryptonite ....it will not bite you ....jump in....what do you have to lose

go to Harbor freight and get a borescope or if time is not an issue anymore ...
5M 6 LED Waterproof USB Borescope Snake Inspection Endoscope Tube Camera Mirror | eBay

Then pull the coil, plug, and take a peak.

Otherwise tow it down here, I would not mind playing with it. Give me 1700 and Ill do a straight R+R, of course thats not including parts or any add ons you want to do. I even have a inexpensive tow guy.

What a champ! http://forums.evga.com/upfiles/smiley/thumbup1.gif

While doing the diagnostic the shop removed and replaced all plugs with new plugs to rule-out any problems coming from the plugs. He didn't mentioned any major damages to the plugs except the following in his report: "R&R all spark plugs, found plugs to be carbon tracked"

Everyone should have a borescope. Absolutely invaluable in situations like this (or about a million others).
I use mine all the time.

I also have that USB camera endoscope that healthservices linked above and it works just fine. It's a little more awkward to need to have your laptop with you to view the image, but not terribly inconvenient.

I would say that's somewhat good news. Let healthservices have a crack at it if you have the funds.

BTW: I searched Harbor Freight for borescope and they didn't show one.

Sometimes called an "inspection camera".

http://m.harborfreight.com/digital-inspection-camera-61839.html

Thanks! Very cool, I want one just to play with it now lol.

Hmm this looks like it would be helpful...

Amazon.com: 16ft USB Waterproof Endoscope Borescope Inspection Camera: Camera & Photo

Don't forget the 20% off coupon you can get almost anywhere!

Sorry to ask but what is Healthservices (beside the obvious medical term)?

Actually, I'm pretty disappointed and angry at the shop owner because when I asked him if he used a borescope too look into the cylinders to see if he could find any damage he told me that he didn't because it's too difficult and too deep on those cars. Is it really?

Healthservices is the person who if offering this help to you.

Quick question: Is it possible to remove the camshaft cover without taking the engine out of the car?

Yes, but it is very tight and requires the use of special cam holding tools to prevent damaging the cams in the process.

Sounds like you need a new mechanic. Seriously, a boroscope is an almost-necessary tool for internal inspection and diagnosis.
His 27 hour labour quote likely includes engine removal and a total tear down. Sure beats using an inspection camera!?

Sorry KRAM36, this thread became so long I didn't even notice that Healthservices is a member and responded to one of the post.

Thanks for the offer. I'm located in the Bay Area, where are you located?

No it is not. It's just as easy as removing the spark-plugs. $15,K tool must be the PIWIS Porsche diagnostic tool which you don't need to rebuild the engine either.
Your semi retired mechanic can't do anything more for you with possible exception of storing your Box until you decide it's next destination. You need someone that knows this engine to borescope it, then remove the camcover with engine installed to further the evaluation.

Actually, I got it towed back to my house this morning because he didn't even want me to leave it in his shop any longer. I think he's in a hurry of retiring and didn't want to deal with my car.

Im new to Boxsters
 

I have had mine for two glorious knuckle busting years....but I have to ask this question

What the heck is the $15,000.00 tool to take an engine apart

+ 1
... Lol

Harbor Freight inspection cam coupon. ...and a decent jack while you're at it. Print it up, or have them scan the image directly on a phone at the register.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1427331205.jpg

3.2 engine ebay $4500, installation $1700, incidentals $300 = $6500 back on the road. I'm thinking that's about as cheap as it gets.

Did you see this post?

I bought 60 cores in 5 months last year; because of that I am heavy on cores for everything except very late engines, and M97.21 cores. We just don't need it.

We only need cores if someone has a failed engine. We don't shelve engines and we build the customers engine. This isn't a core exchange/ mass production initiative, so a core doesn't mean much to us.

This year I have given huge incentives for elective builds, and its worked to change our program a bit. Last year we only saw 3 elective builds; this year we have already seen 6. I am tired of dealing with blown up stuff where the core is wasted.

You told me in one of my thread you could take my engine and turn it into a 4.0 with over 400 HP. I assumed (my mistake) you would want these cores that were not blown. The engine mod you told me would surely command a handsome price tag for you. I also thought you said you had a back log of people waiting for your engines.

Im in so-cal give me a zip code and I can PM you a est for a tow. Afterwards you can drive it back up.

My ZIP code is 94553 Martinez, CA

My current delivery time is April of 2016, so yes, I have a healthy backlog. Core engines are something that we only need when we deal with an engine that has failed; because we always reconstruct the customers engine. We do not do core swap ours, thats for the mass production guys; here we custom build.

My necessity for cores has decreased this year, as I am giving big incentives for elective big bore builds, and trying to fill the schedule with engines that have not failed. I am being very selective with failure build acceptance these days, since most of the time the engine is a total loss and that complicates everything. I hate variables, with elective builds we don't have any, with failures, there are no constants and its all variable.

In times past I have bought cores just to keep them away from circulation, and out of the hands of those who have tried to start an engine program. Today, those people, and their work, has taken many of them out of the equation with a self inflicted wound, so the cores are not as valuable to me as they once were.

4l 400 bhp
 

I cannot imagine that in my little car......but I sure would love to try it and see how it would fit.:cheers:

With my little 3.2 pushing me to well, really fast on the on ramp I can't imagine what 4.0 would do.

With just the air intake upgrade I did, my Boxster it is currently at a point to where I can't drive it as fast as it could go due to the tires not being able to give enough grip.

Any 3.2 owner wanting more grunt should look into a full air intake upgrade, really wakes the engine up and sounds so much better. It's not just top end either, it's completely through the RPM range.

What system did you use
 

I would love to see actual Dyno numbers on that, I did a K&N on my E36 a few years ago and could not tell any difference except for the sound. Tell us more please.

I stared out with just thinking of the 987 air box upgrade.

http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/32074-987-v-986-air-box.html

Then decided to go with the rest of the intake system.

http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/31693-maf-throttle-body-diameter.html

If you want to use the larger 987 MAF housing you have to get a tune or the car will run too lean. So I molded a 986 Maf Housing into the 987 MAF housing so I could just clip it onto the 987 air box like normal and used the honeycomb air straightener so the MAF sensor gets a more accurate reading. This also gives me the option to clip in a 987 MAF housing, run larger piping and get a tune down the road. I don't plan on doing that until I have done my exhaust upgrades.

987 air box with my 986 MAF housing clipped on.

http://i59.tinypic.com/11ka8ph.jpg

The 986 MAF housing molded into the 987 MAF housing.

http://i59.tinypic.com/2moqzxl.jpg

Honeycomb air straightener.

http://i60.tinypic.com/s2z720.jpg

Tune
 

I know we are headed off in a new direction on this thread....but this always seems to happen. For a tune can you do it with a Durametric ? , or could you disconnect the battery and then let the car re-learn the new larger throttle body ?

You can not do a tune with a Durametric. The car can not compensate for the larger 987 MAF housing, no matter what without a tune. The car can and will adapt to the lager TB.

Tune options ?