I think I may have messed up my hub today
 

When I removed the triangular brace assemble the axle came out super easy, no need to remove the sway bar or links (so far) However when I tried to use a large bearing separator and three lugs to pull the hub something went wrong. It pulled slightly about like what I would have expected for tension, but I did not notice that I had run out of threads on the lugs being used. one came out easily, the other not so easy even after I put lubricant on the threads that extended out the back...the third was a bear requiring a lot of force to back it back out. Now I loosened all three in a criss cross pattern until the bearing separator was lose and that was not much at all then I removed the separator so I could get a look at the back of the lugs...the bad one looked like it was distorted ??

I tried some unused lugs I had then they went in with some resistance to the hole I removed the last one from. I think I will try to source a used hub to replace this one...any help from you guys ?

Thanks in advance

I would chase the threads on the hub with a tap and test it with a good lug if it solves the problem then replace the lugs with new ones. If the threads are boogered on the hub and can't be saved then you will need a new hub. If you pull the hub you will need a new bearing because you will destroy the outer bearing getting the hub out of the carrier. I do not recommend trying to do bearings on the car. It is far easier and IMO far better to use a hydraulic press.

The reason I am doing this is I am installing new bearings , I looked on Ebay and hubs are 40 to 90 bucks...I expected much higher

I used a hammer puller and a large socket that matched the diameter of the hub spindle to yank the hub out, then you have to get the race off the hub which can be tricky. Don't bother taking the a-frames out, just plan to pull the carriers and take it to a machine shop if you have not done this before. They can get the race off the hub, I had to use a cutting wheel to cut notches for a three armed puller to get a good grip on one of mine but the other gave it up easily. But the machine shop can do it. Also make sure you put the proper torque 240+'lb/ft on the stake nut once you get the whole shebang back together or it will wobble on the outer race. The whole do it on the car thing is a cluster eff and you will break expensive stuff.

You mean the axle nut ?
 

That is 340 ft lbs ...got brand new ones to replace the old ones I removed

I never can remember torque values for more than 5 minutes, I always look them up right before I do a job. I have a 1" impact that zips them up tight.

1 inch impact
 

Drooollll...I just have a 3/4 inch one

I have a shop, the lift is what really makes the difference. Well that and the press.