Motive 0100 European Bleeder
 

Anyone use one of these ?

I'M thinking I need to replace my brake fluid in both my E36 and the Boxster, this looks like it would make it easy. There is a video on building one but by the time you buy the gauge and make a cover it looks like you would have the $55 bucks these cost. A valve to cut it off and on would be nice.

I bought the 0109 with the aluminum cap that swivels nicely. I never knew flushing/bleeding could be so easy. Indispensable tool.

It doesn't need a valve, just remember to dump the pressure on the canister before removing your cap (I spaced out one time on that and won't be making that mistake again).

Indeed get the #0109 Euro Black Label bleeder - very nice piece and swivel cap is a nice (and worthy) upgrade...

Agreed, I have the lower one with the plastic cap and no swivel and wish I had sprung for the black label. I think the hose is longer too. I use it all the time!

Steve

What those guys said. Order it & wait. Don't accept any substitute.

Have a Black Label on the way, now to make the Brake Fluid decision...it looks to be as controversial as a oil question

I am ready to buy as well
I want to be able to do my jeep as well
I'm assuming an adaptor is available

I think they have an adaptor for most everything including boats and farm equipment.

Napa has 1 liter can of Pentosin Super DOT 4 for $9 something; if I was not tracking mine I would use that. I am using ATE super gold or whatever they call it, $15 per liter.

Cleaning
 

Im curious how you clean one (Motive )

I need to do 4 cars when I get mine in, only 2 will use the Pentosin Super Dot 4, one will use Dot 3

They say not to use brake cleaner , so just get as much out as you can ???

Anyone had any experience with this ??

I use mine dry. Just keep an eye out on your Master Cylinder fluid level.

OK after you use it the first time how do you get it dry for reuse ?

I also have the black cap Motive bleeder. It works great.

To clean up the bleeder for reuse, just get out as much as you can and then I wipe out the inside of the bleeder with lint free towels.

I also use ATE Type 200 Super Gold ($15/liter) and you typically only need 1 liter per car (I have no idea why some instructions say that you may need 2-3 liters). In my case, I am able to use the same brake fluid in all of my cars so whatever might be left in the bleeder after cleaning is at least the same fluid as the new stuff.

Instructions say clean with denatured alcohol. And that stuff is more expensive than the fluid.

I use mine dry also. By this, I mean fill up the reservoir to the brim, and use the bleeder pump to pump low pressure air to the reservoir. Never have to clean it, just have to refill the reservoir before it hits the min level. I usually draw as much old fluid out of the reservoir prior to adding new. I found a really nice product that will draw the fluid out of the reservoir, and also hook to the bleed valves, allowing no drips and no air to be pulled into the caliper. Its seems silly to pay for a bottle and a hose, but it's perfect.

Bleed bottle:
Bleeder Bottles [001-AA145-GA1075] - $14.95 : Advanced Autosports, Miata Race Parts, Spec Miata and TRANS AM Race Car Sales, Service, Build & Rentals Support in Midwest

Last note:

The Boxster brake job was easy for me. My Mazdas were not. If your worried your bleed screws might be seized, heat just the screw with a propane torch for 15 sec, then tap with a hammer. Spray with PB Blaster, and then use a good fitting 6 point socket to break them loose. I figured this out the hard way braking the first bleed screw I attempted on both of my Mazdas. One cost me a new caliper.