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I paid $1k for the water pump. My indy charges $85 an hour.
$3K for your IMS quote includes the new clutch which you already have so you can discount that. An experienced Porsche shop can do the IMS in a day, maybe you'll need a new OEM flywheel $600 (I think) if it wasn't replaced, you can opt for a less expensive IMS bearing (Pelican) so I'm guessing $1,500 all in. The point is to replace the original bearing which is the one that nearly always fails. An IMS failure on a second bearing (Pelican or LNE) seems very rare if a proper inspection was done beforehand to determine if the original bearing had already compromised the engine. While you're at it service the axle boots and replace the RMS seal. Although some guys have done the their own IMS bearing swaps with no special tools or experience taking down transmissions, it's not a good choice for a DIY job. The cost savings does not provide a good risk reward proposition. |
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maybe I am reading what you meant wrong. I'm not going to say the IMS is not a problem, but if 92% don't have a problem, well...... Granted, there are a % that have been replaced before any failure, what that number is I have no idea, but I would bet a dollar it nowhere close to 90% or nearly all Will I get mine replaced, most likely when the clutch is done, its good PM at that point, but I don't lose sleep over it |
Well I have to admit its a concern for me and I have no one to blame but myself. I might luck out but after reading the replacement procedures I realized I am hearing the slight mild rattle when I first start my engine. Its my first Porsche and not only did this issue not come up in my research (again, my fault) but I also didnt know it was unusual or indicated a problem. Its pretty mild and the engine sounds and runs so good at all others times I (again rookie) wrote it off as a quirk of no consequence. Ive not heard it while driving as the guide suggests is also possible. I did buy the car with the understanding that if my mechanic found any major mechanical issues they would be corrected and the lot does have a long and very good reputation. Since this is such a critical issue I will be bringing it in to my mechanic sooner rather than later. An interesting side note, I did learn from that guide that 2500 rpm is not recommended and considered chugging, my last sports car was nowhere near this caliber. Interesting that I am learning the car from in front of my computer and you great folks, go figure. It will be interesting to see what my mechanic has to say but the procedures to replace it are in depth. I read them all and while the guide is good its a pretty heavy duty thing to do myself.
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Happy to report that this car got a clean bill of health and was obviously well taken care of. I was told that the sound I hear on start up is just the engine oil that settles when it sits long enough, makes sense as I dont hear it except after its sat overnight. I did have a chance to look at it on the rack, amazed the engine its leak free and the underside is so flawless. Not bad for $9k. Since theres no way to check the IMSB short of dropping the tranny I will be changing the oil shortly and then again in 2000 miles plus adding the IMS Guardian when Ive got the extra dough. Ill save a sample of the oil and send it off, gotta research "Blackstone Labs." Not a clue who or what they are besides what the name implies. I think cabin and intake air filters should be done immediately also, just cuz. Thats where Im at and I will be driving it around just in time for the Rose Parade. Clay and wax job will be in the next week or so, Ill get some pics up when thats done. Thanks again for all the input on my questions, delighted to say thats its far more input than I expected. BTW this was a lease with pretty comprehensive but vague maintenance for the first five years of its life (according to carfax), it was then returned to the dealership and sold at auction. Was Porcshe proactively replacing the IMSB on 2002s between 2002 and 2007? If so it might have been replaced during that lease? The second owner owned it 7 years and put 25k on it.
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However, if you live out of state or can have a buddy receive them and you drive to his place or have him reship them to you, it's a killer deal. 10-15% over hard cost for Porsche parts!!! BTW - Porsche hasn't "proactively" replaced anything inside the engine block on our cars! They refused to even acknowledge the rear main seal leaks and then the intermediate shaft bearing failures for the longest time, hence the class action lawsuit. |
Mine made a grinding or 'chain dragging' sound at startup only. Then sounded fine all day. The WP was scraping the sides of the impeller against the block. No real leak.
You have to remove belt and feel for any play whatsoever, then start car with no belt. If no noise it likely is play in the WP. |
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Also, take no comfort in any Porsche statistics ( or non-Porsche stats). None of those statistics are complete, they often only include the failures Porsche was alerted to -- an undetermined number failed out of warranty and the ownets dealt only with independent dealership. Neither did the law firm (to my knowledge) that handled settlement disclose the total number of claims they handled. Secondly, the Boxster is not a daily driver for a large % of owners, many of the cars have been sitting and stewing. They are then sold to new owners who drive them more frequently and compromised bearings are not replaced which end up failing. The point being 90% of all Boxsters are not driven and cared for the same. 90% of all Boxsters can probably endure a certain amount of abuse from oil starvation or contamination, but once the bearing exceeds that threshold the previous coin flips have nothing to do with the current coin flip. Also it's simple engineering logic, a sealed bearing playing a critical role in keeping your engine in tact will not last forever nor is there any benefit in keeping it in there indefinitely. |
BTW, if you replace the water pump, replace the front engine mount. It's right there and worth doing at the same time.
and vise versa! |
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I do agree that the IMS is a problem, just that its not all doom and gloom. Like I said, when my clutch get replaced, and I have 60k on it now, so I expect it will be in the next 12 months, I will proactively replace the IMS bearing. In the meantime, it miles of smiles :) |
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I agree not a doom and gloom issue. But its not something you should put off if there a question marks about the previous owners driving routines and how often they changed the oil. We have a member on here who has over 300k miles on his Boxster and is still on the original IMS. But he drives the car every day long enough for the engine to come up to temp and he keeps very strict dealer service.
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I go with Pelican Parts which so happens to own this forum. My local stealership is so much more expensive so I go with OEM from Pelican. I am just about to put my order in for a new waterpump and thermostat.
Cheers, Guy:) |
Second hand car and wondering if the wiper arms are installed correctly. These are shots of the wipers in the off position, is this the proper position? They look too high to me but as a first time owner I have no idea.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps1578d7ba.jpg http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps5cbb69ba.jpg |
Meant to post this in my thread but it looks like it went to you personally, sorry about about that.
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^ No that's wrong. Unscrew them both, push them back in their right position. They should hit in the lower blacken area of your windshield. well mine does anyway
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I think the best upgrade I've done ever on my 986 is a complete and NEW suspension system. Struts, bars, springs, links, everything (<$2000). Now feels and drives like no other Boxster of course lol
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Thanks a lot sir.
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As luck would have it a opportunity to replace the IMS bearing has presented itself. Though the car lot replaced the clutch prior to putting the car on the lot and did not take the opportunity to replace the IMS bearing at that time. However, the car immediately has developed a rear main seal leak that the lot will pay, in full, to correct. Mechanic said something about a tech order for replacement of bolts and something else on the rear main seal so I actually feel pretty lucky this developed so quickly and the lot is catching the tab.
Obviously this is a great opportunity to replace the IMS but I dont know if the car has a dual or single row, and I certainly dont want to spend $700-$1900 on a kit if I can help it. I would also like to order this kit in advance to work starting on the rear main seal. So, in a question from the 'too good to be true' category, should I just order the Pelican kit for $165 and feel safe and secure that my IMS will be good till my new clutch needs to be replaced????? I mean, if Im reading it right that kit will fit no matter what I have now and is a fraction of the cost, why would I NOT want to go with that kit? Is there anything else I should be ordering at the same time to make sure the mechanic has what he needs and Im covering the 'might as well do this too' parts???? On a budget here obviously but if the cheap kit is advisable that gives me a little breathing room for other small parts for now. Any input is appreciated. BTW installed Michelin AS3s on all four corners today and, get this, the tires on the rear had good tread but were made in 2004! Yeah, needed new tires. Still obviously breaking them in but it made a big diff in the ride. Had model year 2013 Proxies on the front and model year 2004 "Ultra HRP" on the rears, now matching AS3s, feels like a brand new car! |
2002 would be single row.
A simple question you better ask before letting someone tear into your engine is if they've done an IMS replacement before? I don't have the procedure dedicated to memory but I believe you need a few specialized tools for locking down camshafts and extracting the bearing. If this is their first and they don't have the tools, I'd serously consider not having them do it. It's not complicated but if you don't do it properly, you'll end up with a really messed up engine. Do research on Jake Raby's website or look for videos on YouTube and definitely ask questions of your mechanic before you let him loose on your car. |
No has has never done an IMS. I was just going by my gut instinct as he seemed very professional in appearance and demeanor, competent and his 5 bay shop is friggin spotless. I realize its still a leap of faith but I got a good feeling about him the moment I met him.
I will have him take a look at the technical guide provided by this site, seems to me that guide is better than most and is something he can reference before and during the procedure. Reading through the guide I saw, "There is a special tool available from Porsche to assist in removing the cover, but it's really expensive and not really necessary." And with the bearing itself there is the LN puller/counterstay for $339. Does anyone have this LN puller that would be willing to rent to it me? Paypal payment in advance kinda thing. So far the parts list Ive come up with is: Pelican IMS kit M6 bolts for the set screws Cam shaft end plugs Axle boots (courtesy of Perfectlap in post #21) *Possibly the LN puller *Flywheel, hope not but maybe. |
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