Oil for a Boxster S
 

My mechanic put Mobil 0 40 in my Boxster. Previously he had used Mobile 10 W 30.
When car is at operating temperature, I hear a new rattling noise from my exhaust. When clutch is depressed, noise goes away. Is the cause of the noise the weight of the oil or do I have other problems?
Thanks

You previously had the wrong oil in the motor. 0-40 or 5-40 recomended. Your noise is most likely not in the motor but could be heat shield, clutch, or transmission.

I can't believe what I'm reading. Dude went there with the oil question, and got a straight answer! Not the "use the search feature" reply! That's cool. (Just an observation...and kidding)

I have a rattle too. Clutch time. Goes away with clutch in.

Does your Boxster have an aftermarket, single mass flywheel installed?

Pretty ballsie to go straight to the oil question in a first post!

nah, just a simple question that got a simple answer.

Better than "what's this bullet shaped thing with wires in my passenger side grill??".

Or

"Which tires are best?"

Bought my car with 47,xxx miles on it. Had the rattle issue you describe. Had the car for about 4 days and drove it 50 miles or so before I put it on a tow truck and sent to my indy shop for IMS, Clutch and Oil change. Car was towed due to distance of shop. Picked car up, rattle remains to this day (work was done in August). If you depress the clutch and let it out slowly (still in neutral) the noise should not be there. It only occurs on quick neutral releases. Not sure what it is and my indy shop couldnt give me a direct answer either. They say it is common.

Slightly off topic, but Castrol Edge 0W40, 5 qt is now available at Walmart for the same price ($25.17) as Mobil 1 0W40, 5 qt.

Thanks, good information. My mechanic is draining the transmission fluid and looking for metal shavings. If none, I am just going to chance it and hope for the best.
Ed

Excellent news. I didn't see the Castrol last time I was buying oil at Walmart-- a month ago.

Oil
 

Have you looked at the Joe Gibbs DT40 5w-40 this is more in line with the German engine design spec.

And the oil was developed with an M96/97 engine as the developmental mule.

I got my DT40 off Amazon, so I was able to buy only 10 quarts instead of a case of 12. I don't use any oil between changes and so this saves me from having 2.5 extra quarts laying around, and then next time having 4 extra, etc...

I've recently seen this M1 product.

5W40 turbo diesel oil

Mobil 1 5W-40 Turbo Diesel Truck Motor Oil, 1 gal.: Motor Oil, Transmission Fluid & Car Lubricant : Walmart.com

Can it be used. I'm currently using 0W40 and was hoping to move to 5W40.

I've had several visits to Jake Raby's shop since I got my 02 S. To start with Jake has probably seen/documented every engine failure that has every occurred in these engines. He has real data based on engine dyno runs, real world long distance runs plus hundreds if not thousands of customer feedback miles. Add to that he has done thousands of oil analysis tests and he recommends Joe Gibbs Racing oil. That's good enough for me. No I am not a blind sheep but real world testing vs. internet gibberish I'll take real world testing every time. Yes it's a little bit of a pain to order it over the net vs. going to Wally world or local FLAPS but I want my engine to live. I could give a rats ass that it's not an approved Porsche oil or doesn't have a shiny Mobil sticker on it but I'm looking for consistent protection. Rant over have fun out there. :D

rattle
 

heat shield or most likely baffles in muffler fought rattle for years, tightened heat shields still rattle... replaced muffler with old muffler, still rattle (100 dollars) Bought Cal. used muffler (300 dollars) No rattle finally. I would bet my paycheck on bad muffler.

oh btw, stay at home dad, no paycheck!

I agree that the Gibbs DT40 is the BEST oil for these cars. But that wasn't my question. I'm not a Mobile 1 "Kool-aid" drinker (just like I'm sure you're not a "Raby" Kool-aid drinker). I'll use any synth oil that works. My question is; Given the higher levels of P and Zn in this particular oil, and it's general availability and significantly lower cost, is it a workable alternative?

Tony

I guess the big question is are you interested in preventing wear of the aluminum parts in the engine or cleaning carbon buildup caused by low diesel cetane levels. Diesel oils have high levels of detergent because diesel fuels burn dirty. So much so that it removes the ZDDP and other film creating additives that aluminum high rev engine need to prevent wear. At least you'll have a very clean engine with scored cylinders, gaulded lifter carriers, and cam bearing ways

So it sounds like you are (sarcastically) saying that you don't like this oil because of the high level of detergents and low zn, p and ZDDP it contains.

5W40 MOBIL 1 TURBO DIESEL TRUCK synthetic
zinc = 1211 ppm
phos = 1168 ppm
ZDDP = 1100 ppm

These seem like fairly solid number to me. Not the highest I've seen, but not bad.

It seems that people here are emotional about oil. This "It has to be the best stuff or you might as well set your engine on fire" attitude is not helpful when someone is trying to ask a simple question. Honestly, I'm not asking if it's OK to put the cheapest dino oil in my car and expect it to run 100k miles without changing it.

Shame on you people.
All I want is a simple answer. Is the Mobil1 5W40 turbo diesel oil usable? If you don't have a useful, constructive response, please don't waste your time (or mine) by posting.

Tony

Simple answer:

No, don't use it. There are plenty of oils preferred by conscientious and diligent owners that are approved by Porsche for the M96/97 engine.

Don't try to shame anyone..........do your own research.

TO

the answer to the op is the oil has nothing to do with the rattle. period

Tony, I gave you the simple answer. There is so many detergent in diesel oils that you would have to double the level of wear additive to make them as effective as the oils that are recommended. Detergents are indescrininent about what films they remove including that thin layer of ZN and ZDDP that is protecting the aluminum bearing surfaces for your cam shafts, lifter carriers, and cylinders.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lQ6NXXLZA3A&feature=youtu.be

Ok. usefull info. Thanks.

Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using Tapatalk

I would be a liar if I did not admit that upon seeing this thread I rubbed my hands together in anticipation and let out a "it's on" style war cry.

[QUOTE=
It seems that people here are emotional about oil. This "It has to be the best stuff or you might as well set your engine on fire" attitude is not helpful when someone is trying to ask a simple question. Honestly, I'm not asking if it's OK to put the cheapest dino oil in my car and expect it to run 100k miles without changing it.

Shame on you people.
All I want is a simple answer. Is the Mobil1 5W40 turbo diesel oil usable? If you don't have a useful, constructive response, please don't waste your time (or mine) by posting.

Tony[/QUOTE]

Good luck on future searches. I gave you a good, honest, documented answer. which you didn't want to hear. Being open minded goes both ways. Shame on who?

Let me add my 2 cents. No you are all wrong. You will blowup your engines and go to Porsche Hell if you don't use 10W/40 or 10W/50. (Tongue firm planted in check.)

But I do believe that lighter than 10W is not the best choice for me. Just how I roll.

No reason to be "emotional" about oil, just look for Porsche A40 approval printed on the container.

Some, including some mechanics, think they know more than Porsche, but they're mistaken.

And get some education so you don't write things like "lighter than 10W." 0W-40, for example, certainly isn't.

First off, I am not an oil expert

IIRC from something I read, the purpose of low viscosity Multi weight oil is that it is thin enough to flow easially when the engine is bone cold. As the engine warms up it acts like thicker oil hence 0-40w. The colder the climate, the thinner the oil that is needed

If I am wrong, don't flame me

..........

When we developed DT40 it wasn't ever going to be sold outside our engine program… In fact, I wish that it was still that way, because I develop things for my program and don't care much about sharing them..

Fact is the economy down turn a few years ago made the oil have to be made 3,0000 gallons at a time, and thats a lot more than our engines could consume per year.

So, for us to be able to have the DT40 it had to go on the open market. Thats why you can buy it today and thats the only reason. Otherwise it would still be delivered to the owners of my engines in a plain white bottle with a "Snake oil" logo and no one would know what it was. Thats the way that I preferred it.

Keep up the FUD

Fear Uncertainty Doubt