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		|  04-16-2014, 06:49 AM | #1 |  
	| Registered User 
				 
				Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Chicago  
					Posts: 25
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				Time for brakes!!
			 
 
			Morning all!!! 
Anyone have any experience with these?? For the price they look to good to be true.
  Porsche Boxster FRT RR Set Cross Drilled Brake Rotors | eBay 
And.. Can anyone recommend a good pad??
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		|  04-16-2014, 07:50 AM | #2 |  
	| Track rat 
				 
				Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Southern ID 
					Posts: 3,701
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			No experience.  The low cost Balo rotors are pretty good though.  Pad choice depends on driving habits and needs:
 - Daily driver
 - Spirited weekend warrior
 - Dual purpose Street/track
 - Track use only
 
				__________________2009 Cayman 2.9L PDK (with a few tweaks)
 PCA-GPX Chief Driving Instructor-Ret.
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		|  04-16-2014, 07:55 AM | #3 |  
	| I am my own mechanic.... 
				 
				Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Salt Lake City, UT 
					Posts: 3,432
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			On my mobile but didn't see any spec for which type. Typically cross drilled are for S models. Pretty sure those are bigger than the base brakes?
		 
				__________________'04 Boxster S 50 Jahre 550 Spyder Anniversary Special Edition, 851 of 1953, 6-sp, IMS/RMS, GT Metallic silver, cocoa brown leather SOLD to member Broken Linkage.
 '08 VW Touareg T-3 wife's car
 '13 F150 Super Crew long bed 4x4 w/ Ego Boost
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		|  04-16-2014, 02:16 PM | #4 |  
	| Registered User 
				 
				Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: chi-town 
					Posts: 328
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			I just installed Cbrakes from ebay. 
pads and rotors 
drilled and sloted 
183$ shipped 
I think it was best 183$ I spent on this car
  Porsche Boxster 97 04 Brake Rotors Pads Fr RR | eBay
				__________________99' with 3.4l engine.  ROW tune. SAI delete
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		|  04-16-2014, 03:30 PM | #5 |  
	| Certified Boxster Addict 
				 
				Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Los Angeles 
					Posts: 7,669
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	Quote: 
	
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					Originally Posted by Timco  On my mobile but didn't see any spec for which type. Typically cross drilled are for S models. Pretty sure those are bigger than the base brakes? |  
OEM rotors are solid for the base and drilled for the S. In the aftermarket, you can find any type you like (solid, drilled, or slotted) for either model. 
 
I use cheap "no name" rotors like you found on eBay for the Boxster and the 996 and have never had an issue. I even race them on the Boxster without issue (but they do get replaced every pad change on the racecar). 
 
Pad selection is based on your driving. If regular street + some curves, the OEM replacement pads are perfectly fine. If you want less brake dust, go to a ceramic pad.
		 
				__________________1999 996 C2 - sold - bought back - sold for more
 1997 Spec Boxster BSR #254
 1979 911 SC
 POC Licensed DE/TT Instructor
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		|  04-16-2014, 05:21 PM | #6 |  
	| Registered User 
				 
				Join Date: Aug 2009 
					Posts: 1,466
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			+1 I'm am using ones like that, they work OK. Similar to Thstone on highway and track.
		 
				__________________2003 Black 986. modified for Advanced level HPDE and open track days.
 * 3.6L LN block, 06 heads, Carrillo H rods, IDP with 987 intake, Oil mods, LN IMS. * Spec II Clutch, 3.2L S Spec P-P FW. * D2 shocks, GT3 arms & and links, Spacers front and rear * Weight reduced, No carpet, AC deleted, Remote PS pump, PS pump deleted. Recaro Pole position seats, Brey crouse ext. 5 point harness, NHP sport exhaust
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		|  04-17-2014, 05:42 AM | #7 |  
	| Registered User 
				 
				Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Lincolnshire, IL 
					Posts: 557
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			Can I "trust" the wear indicator light (on the panel) to accuratly alert me when my brakes need to be replaced?  Since I don't work on the car myself, i'm hesitant to just "open my checkbook" and take it to my indi shop and ask them to check them.....they already told me to expect to pay $800-$1000 for a 4 wheel brake job (w/ceramic pads, new rotors, labor).
 If the wear sensor light can be trusted to light up when they need replacing I'll just wait.  The brakes seem fine and I'm easy on the car so I'm hoping the sensors really work.
 
 Any advice??
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		|  04-17-2014, 05:46 AM | #8 |  
	| I am my own mechanic.... 
				 
				Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Salt Lake City, UT 
					Posts: 3,432
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	Quote: 
	
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					Originally Posted by Rob175  Can I "trust" the wear indicator light (on the panel) to accuratly alert me when my brakes need to be replaced?  Since I don't work on the car myself, i'm hesitant to just "open my checkbook" and take it to my indi shop and ask them to check them.....they already told me to expect to pay $800-$1000 for a 4 wheel brake job (w/ceramic pads, new rotors, labor).
 If the wear sensor light can be trusted to light up when they need replacing I'll just wait.  The brakes seem fine and I'm easy on the car so I'm hoping the sensors really work.
 
 Any advice??
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The wear sensor is a wire stabbed into the pad. If it wears until the wire grounds out, it trips. So yes, the sensor is reliable, but once it trips, you have to buy a new one. Another $40 or so. It's like a 6-10 minute job to pull the tire and pull the pads. Unless rotors are too thin, just drop in pads.
		 
				__________________'04 Boxster S 50 Jahre 550 Spyder Anniversary Special Edition, 851 of 1953, 6-sp, IMS/RMS, GT Metallic silver, cocoa brown leather SOLD to member Broken Linkage.
 '08 VW Touareg T-3 wife's car
 '13 F150 Super Crew long bed 4x4 w/ Ego Boost
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		|  04-17-2014, 07:05 AM | #9 |  
	| Registered User 
				 
				Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Houston, Texas 
					Posts: 7,243
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			Rob, I typically change my pads well before they wear down to the point that the brake sensor sets off the lamp on the dash. Why?
 Because of heat buildup and the fact that pads are cheap safety insurance. When pads are so thin they'll set off the warning light, they heat up rather quickly with each decent sustained use and you can run the risk of brake fade when you need it most. Plus, the added heat is tough on the calipers, rotors, and fluid.
 
 Tires and brakes. I replace both prematurely because they are the only things on the car keeping me from an accident.
 
 Temper all this with the fact that if your pads have a lot of meat left on them, drive the car like you stole it and don't give it another thought for a couple of months. I inspect my pad wear most every month with a flashlight and peer through the spokes of the wheel. If you pull a wheel off a couple of times and learn just how thick the pad is you'll be able to do this too.
 
 OP: Sorry to hijack your thread!
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		|  04-17-2014, 09:34 AM | #10 |  
	| Multi-Boxer Driver 
				 
				Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Orange Park, FL 
					Posts: 1,430
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			I did new pads all around last year (new sensors too as mine tripped). Went with OEM Textar pads, as I was very happy with the stock performance aspect and didn't want to diminish that. 
When I did the brakes on my E320, I used Balo rotors F/R, Akebono pads on the front and Textar on the rear.
 
Don't skimp by buying low-quality/no-name parts.   
 
				__________________ 
				-Chris 
2004 Porsche Boxster 2.7 (gone   ) 
2004 Porsche 911 C4S Cab 
1991 Porsche 911 C2 Targa 3.6 
2017 Subaru Outback 3.6R
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