Second LN magnetic drain plug failure
 

So for the second time, my LN plug has failed, the shoulder has sheared off again from the threaded section. The first time it failed made sense. I had overtorqued it since Pelican said the torque value was the same as the OEm plug, 37 ft-lbs. They have since changed to the correct spec of19 ft-lbs. The new plug I have has been removed maybe 3 times and always torqued to 19.

I had noticed some oil on the garage, so a couple of nights ago I put down a piece of cardboard and had a good amount of oil on it in the morning. I thought, great, its the RMS or IMSB that failed. I looked under the car and the mating area between the motor and tranny were perfectly dry, whew!

Then I note a drip from the plug. when I put the torque wrench on it, the shoulder came completely off. I was very close to losing all the oil in my car.

I just don't have any confidence in the LN plug any more. Is there an alternative mag plug?

Not trying to say the LNE plugs don't fail... BUT could your torque wrench be out? Too many people leave the torque set at whatever they last used instead of turning it back to minimum and releasing the spring... after a while the specs are way out to lunch... and the torque wrench is junk. Just saying it might be possible....
:-)
H

see my thread yesterday on magnetic plugs mate im looking for one too

I've had my LN drain plug since they were introduced...never a problem.

Weird. Unless it was a defective plug to begin with, there has to be something wrong with your torque wrench or sump cover (burr or ridge around the drain hole). We also have been using the LN plug since it was introduced, and with many, many customers running them for several years, we have yet to see a failure.

I've got the LN plug but it has only ever been torqued once as I haven't yet changed my oil a second time. ECS Tuning makes one now if you wanted try a different brand.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Porsche-2000-Boxster-986-Roadster_S-Convertible-H6_3.2L/Engine/Oil_Service/ES2587271/

I've used about 500 of them, every engine we've ever built has one. Out of those we've not had a single incident. There has to be come constant here thats leading to this.

Where did you buy your plugs from? Could be counterfeits on eBay.

I checked my click torque wrench with a beam wrench. Set at 20 ft-lbs, the wrench clicked between 225 and 250 in-lbs on the beam wrench, so I think I'm pretty close with the torque wrench.

I got it from Pelican.

Sounds like that might be the problem. Now that I think about it, since I got the car, there has been a slight weep at the drain plug. But I have inspected the drain hole closely, thinking it was a stuck crush washer or an imperfection and I couldn't see anything.

I guess I'll get a new sump plate and see what happens.

It's not uncommon for the crush washers to have burrs on them as well. This would cause oil to weep by.
I always order a handful and toss any that look questionable.

You may not need a new sump plate if the existing one can be cleaned up or de-burred.

Thanks. I'll take it to a machine shop and have them take a look at it.

Filing at right angles will produce a flat surface. You wouldn't have to remove the plate.

The plug actually sits in a recess, so filing it will be difficult:

http://c1552172.r72.cf0.rackcdn.com/283095_x800.jpg

I drilled mine for safety wire, as I do all my drain plugs so that I have no tendency to overtighten. Torquing the drain plug sounds like a good idea, but I just snug mine up pretty well, and safety wire in place. Never any leakage.

I do wish LN had made the shoulders much thicker. They are a real ******************** to drill for safety wire.

I've found huge deficiencies with the stock drain plug surface of the sump plate.. We've had a few IMS Guardians leak because of these types of deficiencies.

Do you have a solution?

I've had to machine a few sump plates.