Triple Square Clearance Issues on 6 Speed
 

I bought the Pelican 10mm triple square tool in anticipation of using it to remove my 2000S 6 speed trans, but the tool is way too long and hits the trans case so there is no real way to seat it properly or turn it. Anyone have any ideas on an alternate tool that works? I have thought about cutting this one down and using a 13mm socket and a swivel. I'm open to any other methods.

Benjamin

Some get the raw bit, cut it down, then slip a 10mm box wrench over it.

Snap-on makes a very short stubby version for their triple squares, under the budget "Blue Point" label. I got one for the 16mm 5 speed drain plug. Try their website - shipping is free. Price for the 10mm is $8.50. Socket Driver, Metric, Triple Square, Stubby XZN, Blue-Point, 10mm

Yes, cut the bit and do this:
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1396657155.jpg

Ok, I can do the cut and box end wrench routine, but how do you torque it properly when you go to reinstall?

That particular bolt does not have to be too tight. I have read where some members replaced with a regular bolt… Just a thought.

Pull on the wrench really hard. Sometimes you just gotta do what you gotta.do.

And if I remember correctly it was a 11mm wrench on that bit... Make sure you have that size.

Well....you could slip a crowfoot onto it with your torque wrench, and lower the setting a bit. Torque is only 33 ft. lbs. IIRC.

das is de procedure un der factorie

Two weeks ago I removed my gearbox and after a searching for the proper tool, cutting it to size so would fit properly and everything, just to find out that the dealer that had replaced the crank seal (under warranty) had left this bolt finger tight... LOL

I will replace it with a bolt with the same head as the all the ones...

.

You could do the math and use a fish scale for the pull.

Say your wrench was 12 inches long, then pull on it to 33 lbs at the end, and you will have torqued it to 33 ft/lbs.

easy peasey!

Ie 8" wrench would be 12/8 x 33= 49.5lbs of pull at the end of the wrench and agin you have 33ft/lbs of torque

omg... science. it is too much. Gut n tight for me. but thanks for the knowledge!

this goes in my handy tips book! :cheers:

Mine happens to be a 13mm.
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1396711445.jpg

Yep, that worked. It was torqued quite a bit, or maybe it just seemed that way because I was using a wrench instead of an 18 inch breaker bar. The trans and clutch are now off and I'm about to research methods of locking the flywheel for bolt removal. I also found that I only have one guide sleeve, so I need to see how many are missing and make another parts order.

Thanks for the help, everyone!

ah now and spoil the fun for the next guy?:rolleyes:

I have this same one. I cut mine off with a die Grinder right below the D in K-D

Locking the flywheel? Get yourself a 6" piece of steel bar and drill a small hole at one end (large enough to go over one of the pins on the flywheel) and another hole at the other end (large enough to insert one of the transmission bolts through it). Use one of the transmission bolts to anchor the bar (make sure it is threaded well into the motor) and slide the other end of the bar over one of the pins on the flywheel.

Thanks, I did that except I used .125 aluminum because that's what I had. I also used one of the clutch housing screws because it seemed like it could slip off the pins. It worked great, but boy it took a lot of muscle to get the flywheel bolts off.

Now I'm trying to decipher the LN instructions as to which cam plug to remove. Also whether to just loosen or remove the tensioners.

Front, passenger side:

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1396798302.jpg

I removed the tensioners.

OK, then going by this diagram, if the right lower cam (since this drawing is from the flywheel side) is locked, I can see how that bank's intake cam is also held in place, but if you remove all three tensioners, what keeps bank 1-3 from moving?
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1396807138.gif

That diagram has always confused me too. (Edit - delete text)

From the LN instructions.

After doing some more reading, you are correct about the bank numbers. Cylinder 1 is behind the passenger seat (left hand drive) and cylinder 4 is behind the drivers seat. I think you might be right about the chain locations as well.

Attempting to interpret the LN instructions: It kind of sounds like you can lock down either side, bank 1 locks in the front and bank 2 locks on the flywheel side. Whichever bank you choose, remove the IMS to cam tensioner for that bank and the crank to IMS tensioner. Then optionally loosen or remove the other bank's tensioner.

I'm still not clear what keeps the non locked bank's cams from moving when that tensioner is (optionally) loosened or removed.

After doing some more reading, a lot of thinking, and a bit of sketching, I think I have it ironed out. It makes sense to lock down the bank 1 exhaust cam and remove the bank 1 IMS to cam tensioner, as well as the crank to IMS tensioner. I see little to no value in removing the bank 2 tensioner because of it's location and potential skewing effect on the IMS bearing end of the IMS. The reason to remove the tensioners is so that the end of the IMS will not be pulled askew when the bearing is removed. With the IMS bearing removed, the flywheel end of the shaft will have quite a bit of potential for movement (hence the need to remove or greatly loosen the two tensioners mentioned above). The bank 2 chain is on the pulley end and is subject to almost no movement at all and any tension put on the IMS shaft would result in comparatively little movement on the IMS bearing end. Here is a sketch I threw together as to how I understand the internal components to be laid out. (Obviously things aren't to scale and it's lacking quite a bit of detail with the cams, etc, but you get the idea)
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01/IMS21396897851.jpg

The intake cams were left off for clarity and due to laziness.

(Edit - delete text) But we need someone more expert than I to critique your sketch.

I think everything is correct except that the IMS to crank tensioner is on the wrong side. What do you think is wrong?

Edit

Delete

No, the bank 1 tensioner (passenger side bank) is on the right side at the flywheel end. Bank 2 tensioner is behind the drivers seat.

I had to go climb around on the garage floor to take these pictures:

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1397006757.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1397006560.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1397006569.jpg

The drawing in Post 21 is from the pulley side.

OK I think I got turned around under the car.

From Wayne Dempsey's book/website.

Project 16 photo #16

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...mall/Pic16.jpg

This shows bank 1 (cylinders 1,2,3,) and the cast mark showing "which kind" of tensioner goes in there (purple arrow).

Project 16 photo #23

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...mall/Pic23.jpg

This shows bank 1 (cylinders 1,2,3), note cast boss for engine serial number The tensioner comes in the bottom adjacent to the chain driving sprocket. The lock on the exhaust cam (5 chain design) needs to be at the far end of the cam opposite the chain driving sprocket, so for this bank it's at the front of the engine behind the (US) passenger seat.

I believe the drawing you posted above in post #21 is from the front of the engine (with serpentine belt pulleys).

What are you working on? ...you mind taking more photos (detail if possible) to share?

(Assuming you're asking me) I am changing the IMS bearing and installing the Direct Oil Feed system by TuneRSMotorsports. I plan on taking pictures and making a new post because, while this isn't breaking any new ground, I did have to comb several sources to get everything figured out. If I can help the next person get it done, I'll be happy.

Are you chaning out the bearing or keeping the existing one?

Changing. The change may surprise a few people, but I will explain it in depth when I put the post together.