![]() |
Best Garage/Workshop Tools
Hi Everyone,
After a string of bad experiences with different mechanics, I have decided to start doing the regular maintenance on my 986 myself (brakes, oil, minor repairs, etc). I know that I will take the time to do everything properly, like getting the oil level right or not scratching anything. Plus it will be cheaper. I don't have a lot of experience working on the mechanical side of cars (I plan to learn) or a huge amount of space (ei - no room for a lift). What would everyone recommend as some must have tools for working on a 986? Anything unique to working on the Boxster? I have the basics like a jack, jack stands, screwdrivers, wrenches, etc. And I know I need to get an oil wrench and drain pan. What else do you recommend, use often, think is awesome, saves time, makes life easier? Thanks! :cheers: |
As well as your mentioned oil wrench and drain pan + assorted hand tools:
1) Make sure your hydraulic jack lowers far enough to get under the car + lift high enough for the jackstands. 2) A good set of torx head sockets. 3) A good set of 3/8" drive allan keys (for the brakes) and standard allan keys. 4) Oil catch can of at least 15 litres. 5) Good quality torqe wrench. 6) High powered lead light / flash light. 7) The Bentley Boxster Service Manual and Dempsey's 101 Project for your Boxster. |
I bought a set of hydralic jackstands off ebay. I use my floor jack to get the car way up then put the jackstands underneath. they come with a locking pin so they are safe and you can use the built in jack to get the car higher if needed. Find your nearest Harbor Freight or Sears you will be there often. I have done most of the work on my 99 Boxster myself. I enjoy doing the work I couldn't possibly afford the dealer prices and I have found much of the info can be found on these forums. What isnt here someone will usually offer up their experience/advice once you ask the question. You will need torx wrenches and star wrenches. I had an extensive set of tools prior to owning the Boxster but have added to my collection as needed. Working on these cars is not that difficult of course mine is not a daily driver so if it sits in the garage on stands for a couple of weeks it's no big deal. Many parts can be found on ebay or craigslist along with Pelican and other internet suppliers.
|
Motiv Black Label European Power bleeder
air compressor - about 5 cfm@90psi, 15 gallon tank min. Uview Airlift Vacuum tool Good torque wrenches - 40 - 250 in-lb, 5 -75 ft-lb, 50 - 200 ft-lb (Snap-On if you can) remote hose clamp tool, rad hose picks 16mm security triple square bit very good quality metric flare wrenches - the cheap ones spread under load and fu your fittings. Go with Mac, Snap-On, Craftsman That should get you started |
Honestly, by doing it yourself the car will get more attention and will save you time over dropping it off somewhere and waiting hours/days for it to get done.
Once you've done things a few times it will go very quickly. Oil change in <30min Bleed all brakes <40min New brake pads all around <1hr New Muffler system removal and install ~3hrs All you need is: Good metric/SAE socket set ~$60 Clicker Torque wrench ~$30 pressure bleeder ~$60 Floor jack ~70 4 Jackstands ~$60 Oil catch pan ~$15 I have a compressor and airtools but only use them to remove wheels, you have to be careful not to cross thread or shear things with an airtool so always get the nuts started by hand first and do final tightening/Initial loosening with a hand wrench. |
Quote:
I've used cheap beam wrenches and they're ok, just not too accurate. I've used cheap PA wrenches (same as HF basically) and they are inconsistent and inaccurate and generally feel like junk in your hands. I have a Craftsman 3/8 5/75 ft-lb unit that seems to work well, but it lacks the definite click of the Snap-On that I replaced it with. CDI are supposed to be ok but I have no first hand experience with them. JFP should jump in here - his toolbox is the size of boxcar. I think he lives in it. |
Thanks you to everyone for the responses so far! It doesn't seem like I will need to purchase too many new tools, I already have a good set of the basics. And I will make sure not to skimp/buy from Harbor Freight, especially for the torque wrench. :cheers:
|
I work on big and old heavy trucks and have a lot of tools around. So I keep separate roller tool cart with my high quality precision tools for the Ducati's and now the 986. They don't get jumbled around with the dirty heavy tools. And they get put away clean!
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1394554279.jpg |
What has worked for me....
Low profile Jack, got mine from Costco for ~ $120: http://www.amazon.com/Arcan-Quick-Lift-Professional-Service/dp/B000Y9YGX4 Esco Jack Stands, I've seen them for less than this and also on group buys: ESCO Jack Stand — 3-Ton Capacity, Model# 10498 | Jack Stands| Northern Tool + Equipment Good size Oil Drain jug, I've been using this exact one for nearly 30 years: http://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-FloTool-11838-Oil-Drain/dp/B000AMGYNA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1394556921&sr=8-2&keywords=15+qt+oil+drain It got bad reviews so you may want to try this: http://www.amazon.com/Lumax-LX-1632-Black-Drainmaster-Storage/dp/B0059HJSA2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394556921&sr=8-1&keywords=15+qt+oil+drain Smallish Tool Boxes from Sears, great for organizing types of tools (I have all buffing / polishing tools with pads and compounds in one, another with only bicycle specific tools in it, etc.) and keeping them together yet separate: 20" Craftsman Plastic Hand Tool Box $10 + Free Store Pickup - Sears Deals, Coupons and Promos I have an older Craftsman 1/2" Click Torque wrench which they do not sell anymore, it has served me well. Never saw the point of buying / paying for Snap-on unless you used them for a living. A heckuva tool set for the price: Sears.com That's all I can think of off the top of the noggin for now. |
Quote:
|
On the torque wrench, I figured even having one that is off say 15% is better than not using a torque wrench at all for someone new to DIY.
I agree that an expensive torque wrench is better but lets not give the guy sticker shock or any reason to be discouraged from forging ahead on the DIY path. I have a HF clicker and it fine for most things that normally just get the "Thats about right" manual wrenching. All Internal engine components and covers need accurate torquing like the oil pan so that you can get a good seal and not strip bolts into aluminum. Cross threading is also something to beware of as its easy to do in aluminum. Be careful with spark plugs too and torque them properly. |
I currently have a 24" HF torque wrench, which only gets used to check the lugs about a hundred miles after every summer/winter wheel change. I will start by looking for a smaller, high quality one to start, because I think it is a safe assumption that the correct torque (ei - not over torquing) is more important for smaller nuts and bolts vs the lugs.
I am well aware of cross threading issues. One of the repairs done to my car was a hub replacement courtesy of a tire change where they just went right for it with the impact gun, it cost them $800 at the dealer. I am making a list of all the recommended tools/brands mentioned and plan to acquire them as I go, thanks again for all the recommendations/suggestions! :cheers: |
Collecting Snap-On tools via Ebay has become a hobby for me. It started off with wanting a set of the old black hard handle screwdrivers and it took off from there. After buying a few of tools a week for several years I now have a nice set of mechanic-grade tools in the garage, and I have my old tools in my basement workshop. It's nice not having to run back and forth every time I need a tool and it's not where I'm working.
BTW, if you're going to buy an impact gun, don't mess around, get the MG725. |
Quote:
Snagging snap-on or equal quality tools off of ebay is a great idea if just starting to build up your collection, for me it would present too much of a PITA factor vs. buying the whole kit and being done but to each their own.......:cheers: |
I have some really good torque wrenches- one is even made in Germany- which I will assign to the Porsche tool box. I also have some Harbor freight torque wrenches. I checked them against a certified wrench- and one of the cheapies was right on. Another was off 2 lbs and the worst off 4 lbs (50 ft lb test). That's a 4% & 8% error (I think).
So a 8% error on a 7 ft lb bolt is not much to worry about and probably factored in on the design. So I wouldn't worry about it.:) |
Quote:
Quote:
|
Quote:
Stahlwille? |
Quote:
If you see tools as more than just tools, as art and a joy to behold, more power to you. I see it as an utter waste of money, unless their superior quality actually provides a benefit for you (please refer back to the hobbyist vs. professional remark). Not razzing you Mark, just pointing out we all have different priorities.....kind of like my shaking my head at my partner's Rolex Presidential, my Seiko does the same thing.........:cheers: I wish ebay was around decades back, wouldn't have had to drive to Kansas City for a 442 decklid, nor to Canada for a Shelby 7 quart oil pan, etc., etc. All we had then was Hemmings. But then again, back then road trips were fun :). |
Quote:
|
I am going to break down and buy a breaker bar this spring so changing from winter rims/tires to summer/all season will be a lot simpler. It is a real pita using the tool kit wheel nut wrench plus I have got rid of those idiotic security locking nuts. :)Guy
|
A breaker bar is a big improvement over the factory tool kit, but an impact gun with a torque stick takes all the pita out of the job. You don't have to crack the lugs loose before lifting the car. Just jack it up from the rear jack point until both wheels are clear and then zim zam and you're done. Repeat on the other side.
Btw, I don't put total faith in the torque stick. I use the 90 ft-lb stick and do the final few pounds with my torque wrench once all the wheels are changed and the car is back on the ground. Re-torque in a couple of days. |
Quote:
Can actually get the revs up now as the streets are getting drier and as long as wifey is not with me then there are not much limitations except the redline! Cheers, G.:D |
Last summer I was facing some suspension work and treated myself to a Kobalt Li ion 1/2" impact wrench. The wrench was on sale, plus I had a 10% coupon, final price under $200.
Man, I should have got one of these years ago! It makes short work of removing suspension components, wheels etc. The battery seems to last a very long time. I've not had to swap batteries in the middle of a job. |
Quote:
|
I find that I use the Sears electric impact wrench more and more these days.
|
a compressor and air tools are nice too
|
I like air tools - the feel, the sound, the power. There is no battery to die or eventually replace.
I got put off battery operated tools a few years ago I spent big bucks on this really nice Hilti cordless drill, but when I went to buy a new pair of batteries a few years later I found that they were obsolete and discontinued. Didn't expect that from a company like Hilti. I can still get parts for my 50 year old Kirby vacuum, but Hilti blows off their customers after 5 years. Nice. So now I buy cheap cordless drills, mainly for working around the yard, and pitch them when they are done. Everything else is corded or air. Current air tool collection: Snap-On MG725 1/2" impact gun & 10 torque sticks Snap-On PD3A 3/8 drill 2 Snap-On FAR70B assembly ratchets CP728 assembly ratchet (the original!) IR air chisel Crafstman 1/4 ratchet PA 3/8 & 1/2 ratchets PA die grinder Airlift Vacuum evacuator tool All driven by a Dewalt 1.6 HP, 200 PSI, 15 gallon vertical tank compressor. It has been more than adequate so far. Currently watching Ebay for the right deal to replace the PA stuff with SO. I may de-snorkle the MG725. I hear it will give me another .02 ft-lbs, but I'm still waiting to see a dyno report ;) |
Well Mark I am a Luddite when it comes to tools as I try to do everything manually.
I use a handsaw to saw wood and a breaker bar to remove lug nuts(I do have a torque wrench though). I do have a power drill though. If somebody broke into my garage there would not be much worth stealing! Guy:) |
A hand saw, eh? I think my dad used to have one of those... (j/k!)
I actually have a pretty good collection of rip saws, crosscut saws, mitre saws, tenon saws, dowelling saws, coping saws, and all kinds of different hacksaws. For powered saws: 3 circular saws, a 10" Makita mitre saw, 2 jigsaws, a gorgeous old 60's Delta table saw, a 16" 2-speed bandsaw, and a Milwaukee Sawzall If someone breaks into my garage my insurance agent just may flee the country. But you should see the bars and spikes on the window. That combined with the solid 2" thick solid man door in the angle iron re-enforced frame and the security camera keeps it fairly safe. |
Quote:
Your run down on woodworking tools sounds like Timco having a moment with his weapons.......:cheers: I have to admit, there is nothing more satisfying than using a good quality woodworking hand tool with a correctly sharpened blade, in my case a hand plane. |
I inherited this Record #4 from my Grandad. I believe he got it in the late 40's.
http://www.members.shaw.ca/oshikuru/record1.jpg Yeah, Timco and weaponry, me and tools, pretty much the same thing. |
If you already have a basic hand tool set (Wrenches, Sockets, screwdrivers, allen wrenches) i would not buy anymore. I would buy more as I need them.
Air tools are great if you have them but I'm seeing myself use my electric impact wrench and Drill more than my air impact tools. I bought a set of 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" socket adapters for my drill. One tool that I use all the time is a ramp. I use it all the time. |
Not sure if this has been mentioned yet. Porsche loves to use torx bolts!!! A complete set of torx sockets is necessary in my opinion. I have 4 sets myself.
|
One handy tool that I bought a couple of months back (it was on special for $40) that has really surprised me in a good way is a Craftsman Right angle driver.
Sears.com I originally bought it to leave near the back of my SUV in the garage so I could quickly drive in and remove the bolt in the hitch that secures my bike rack, it performs that task beautifully. Since then I've grabbed it for other projects since it's cordless, it made removing the undertrays / covers on my 993 for a shift rod project a breeze. Also used it to run in 3" long by 1/4 lags to studs to hold tire racks in basement, it did a dozen of them with no fade in strength. I can't believe the torque this little thing has: http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...psbd5f6c2b.jpg A review of it: <iframe width="640" height="360" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/8Kmmp8i1lRk?feature=player_detailpage" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> |
Nice. Thanks for sharing this. I'll be getting one of these. I like the compact size vs a regular cordless drill that I use.
|
Quality tools are always a good investment. I have worked on cars for at least 50 yrs. Started w my dad's Snap on tools. Some of the ones he has are at least 60 yrs old and still in good working condition. Point being good quality tools can be a lifetime investment. I have gone through several sets of Craftsman tools over the years and thought they were reliable. Just kept losing them. Storage and organization are now something I pay more attention to. The CD I torque wrench seems to be a good value. Look and feel a lot like Snap on but not as expensive. The latest basic tool set that I use regularly is actually Husky. Design similar to Snap on. They have held up well and came in one of those plastic snap in cases. This helps with the organization. I know immediately what is missing and it helps to keep everything where I can find it.
|
Quote:
|
Good question. I don't know.
|
All times are GMT -8. The time now is 11:50 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2025 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Pelican Parts Website