Replaced Fuel Sender - won't start
 

I replaced my fuel level sender. During the process a considerable amount of fuel leaked from the hoses connected to the top (unavoidable, maybe ~2 cups of fuel). New unit installed, I'm pretty sure everything is connected properly, but the car won't start. Initially I cranked it for ~15 seconds and it fired up - ran for ~30 seconds and now won't start again. I haven't cranked for more than 15-20 seconds and have done this maybe 5x. I don't want to damage anything - am I missing a step? Should I short the fuel pump and manually force it to pump? How long should I be cranking? I feel like there's a ton of air in the fuel lines but need advice how to proceed, thanks.

:confused:

I think you probably need to prime the lines. As with changing any fuel filter it needs to be primed before the car can start.

I'll look at my manuals when I get to the shop, but prime the lines.

Cranking is turning over a dry engine. Ouch.

Yes, prime the fuel lines! And this is accomplished how? Is it just simply jumping pins 30 and 87 to manually invoke the fuel pump?

Ran fuel pump for 30 seconds, no change. Pulled the sending unit out again, found one of the fuel lines disconnected. Reconnected it and was able to pop it off again without depressing the side release button :/

I tinkered with the locking mechanism using a precision screwdriver and reseated it, it popped off again. Repeat, and it felt kinda snug? Not sure. Put everything back together, ran fuel pump 15 seconds, car fired right up. I have about 40% confidence that hose will remain connected. :/

Not even any crazy glue or duct tape??

No, just coated everything in sugar, I heard that would make it sticky and not fall off again! :p

Actually, egg is best.

(So I've heard)

Jack up the left rear of the car and put it on a jack stand. Remove the rear tire. On the lower left corner of the firewall (you will have to reach above the plastic underbody shield) there are 2 quick disconnects. Remove the one with a rubber hose, ignore the one with thinner plastic hose. If you get squirted with gas when removing this fuel QD, you have fuel pressure. If you want to run gas through the system, attach a 1/4 inch rubber hose to the tube stub you took the fuel QD off from. Put the rubber hose into a container safe for gasoline. Turn on the key - gas should flow like a bugger out the rubber hose. If it doesn't, you have a problem upstream from there.

I recall one of the lines from the pump to the sending unit/filter being a royal PITA to get attached and seated correctly. Once it's on, however, and if it passes the tug test, you should be okay for that.

I've changed my fuel pump and filter, separately and didn't need to prime either time. The hose connections should firmly click into place and be able to pass a significant tug test. All of my connectors worked flawlessly- a great design I think. If the white part returns to home after releasing it then the line is trapped together. Don't give up until you're at peace!;)
Is your fuel gauge working?

Yes, my gauge is working. It is reading almost the exact same fuel level as the old, I took a photo before/after to compare. I've only put 45 min drive time on it so far, and no re-fuel yet.

I didn't tug super hard but I'm just not confident because it did come off several times. The other 3 hose connections yes, easy snap in, heard/felt the click, and am confident they're locked into place. This last one, no real click/lock feel. Like I said, I tinkered with it and I'm quite certain something is amiss with that connector on the fuel sender side. I think I'll order the new hose assembly and replace it for peace of mind.

This is the offending hose, it was also a total PITA to remove from the old fuel sending unit.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...uelsender4.jpg

My pump's different-2001 but the clips look the same. Hope it stays put for you.
My filter is underneath the car, about dead-center! It's all a PITA!