Proper storage method for 2nd engine
 

Hi all,

Sorry for the lack of introduction, I've never been good at that! I've been following your forum since a while and finally decided to join in.

I have one of many question to ask. I have an engine in storage since a few months now and wonder if I should keep it inside a cold garage during the winter. Humidity average of +/-70% in there.

Anybody know what are perfect conditions for storing a engine long term? It is currently stored in a wooden box fully guarded by lots (lots) of spiders/webs and other miniscule creatures! They are living in it already so the idea of bringing this indoor doesn't please the Second Half here.

It would really be cool if anyone had this info handy

A spare engine should be prepped for long term storage just like you'd prep the engine in your car for long term storage. Do a search and you'll find lots of advice. Additionally, you need to keep ALL of the critters out as they can do a lot of damage - be sure to seal off all of the engine access points (intake/exhaust/hoses/lines/etc). The less temp and humidity changes, the better (enclosed storage is better than outside, heated is better than non-heated, etc). Sounds like you'll need to do a clean up, full prep, and re-package this fall.

I would at least squirt some motor oil in each spark plug hole, then rotate the engine by hand to avoid rust in the bores. Also seal the engine up air-tight, intake, exhaust, hoses, etc. You could even put in a few desiccant bags before sealing it up.

I would at least squirt some motor oil in each spark plug hole, then rotate the engine by hand to avoid rust in the bores. Also seal the engine up air-tight, intake, exhaust, hoses, etc. You could even put in a few desiccant bags before sealing it up. BTW, don't use duct tape or masking tape , they don't hold up long term . Aluminum tape works pretty well.

oops posted in the wrong thread

I would get some engine fogging oil (spray can) from the marine supply store and squirt it in the intake ports and into the cylinders through the spark plug holes. Rotate a few times like Stephen said.
Fogging oil is what boaters use to winterize their outboard motors.

Salut à toi Montréalais !

Lube it up, put an engine storage bag on it, then use a shop vac to suck out the air (especially if you wrap it on a humid day).

Engine storage bags: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-99400

If you dont oil the cylinders before storage you will likely have rust in the bores after a number of years which will need cleanup before turning over the crank lest you score the cylinder and bust rings and loose compression.

I like the engine bag idea too, along with the oil fogging in each cylinder and put the plugs back in

I don't think you have to worry about the bores rusting in an M96.

Thanks x100 guys, this is all very good info

From all the tips & trick you've provided, we decided to buy a 1 meter wide wrap roll with an industrial amount of silica gel bags. This is what we'll do:

We'll debug it (RAID!!) and plug all the access points, throw a kilo of silica gel sachets on and under the engine and wrap it with the clear plastic. We can heat that plastic with a heat gun and all should shrink air tight.

About the temp problem, my brother in law said he has lots of space in his indoor garage so I'll just transport it there next weekend. Should have think about that long ago.

We are still not clear whether we need to oil, or spray, the bores with anything. Some recommend it and some other guys told me not to do this. I've even heard that if oil comes in contact with carbon residues, this can harden with time and could potentially become harmful e.g. sticking in the valves once the engine cranks for its first time. So just to be on the safe side, we hope the wrap and lots of silica gel bags will be sufficient to slow down the rust process. That said, fingers crossed for the bores :/

Haha! Salut

Aluminum- Alusil/ Lokasil/ Nikasil bores don't rust.....

The rings can, though.

Be more concerned with compressed valve springs losing their rates or seeing fatigue over long term storage.

Corrosive wear is also a concern, ensure that you utilize an oil that's developed for storage.

Yeah, on V8's you back off the rockers to save the springs , I guess you could rotate the engine once a month? I forgot about the bore coatings....

Rotate engine CLOCKWISE ONLY by hand to TDC to alleviate pressure on valvesprings as JR alluded to & leave it at TDC until time to start engine, then rotate by hand 1 full revolution CLOCKWISE back to TDC.

I got that right, and will do. Thanks for this advice guys

(loveeeely forum and people, thanks all)