Codes set.....now what?
 

So...........

The car I bought has issues.......I knew that. But now I'm stumped.

The has thrown codes P0107, P0300, P0343. All data has everything from replacing the variocam to testing for bad grounds from the DME to cam position sensors, to replacing the DME
Anyone have in depth experience with these issues enough to point me in the right direction? Have already replaced the cam position sensors (that was a blast!) and will do the ignition switch in an attempt to cure my interior electrical issues tomorrow.

My laptop reader (autoenginuity) reads the codes as http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1377725023.jpg

TIA

Flashing CEL? Or just steady on?



/

I want to say flashing but I've tried so many things and cleared so many times I'm not sure anymore. Why?

If its steady CEL that comes back after being reset, I would consider running a bottle or two of Techron through and see what happens.

I don't recommend that with a flashing CEL which is much more serious.

Early in my 986 ownership I had a CEL that didn't want to go away. Some Techron and some regular driving cleared up. Once it went away, that was the end if it. Good luck.



Definitely change the ignition switch for random electrical gremlins. I did two (actually 3) on my car over time. I put one in that was bad, so I replaced it again.



/

Check with your tool which DTC set the CEL, then go from there. Also, you can view the misfires as the car is running. Do you have service info? Because you're going to need what the test criteria is before trying to correct the code(s).

Regards,
paul...

Paul I can't keep it running long enough or well enough to get readings. What you see is my laptop shot which was the worst it ever read. i don't know what the culprit is that set it off originally.

I'm almost beginning to suspect a cam out of time. When I disconnect the batt. I can get it to start and run and for a few moments I can even get the motor to purr, then the system must be incapable of retarding timing enough to compensate for the cam timing and it starts to wig out and run like crap.

I've read a few posts here that mentioned the chain tensioners being worn too much and the chain jumping teeth due to the extra oil running through the worn oil passages.

Pelican sent me the wrong ignition switch, another to arrive tomorrow so I'll swap that out real quick just for giggles and to see if it takes care of my other interior elect. issues. Failing that, I may send the ECU out for testing, then look at timing if all else fails.

I'm open to opinions and suggestions if you or anyone has any other ideas.........please share. I have no repair manual etc......just depending on info from you all, previous posts etc......been very helpful.

Some code info (applicable to a 2002, DME 7.2 Boxster):

P0107 diags says the DME has failed (ambient pressure sensor is incorporated into the DME due to a short circuit to ground

P0343 diags says cam position sensor circuit has a short to battery power (12volts) -- this is important because the cam sensor (bank 1) identifies the #1 cylinder which has to coincide with the crank position sensor in order to establish the ignition timing for #1 cylinder.

Regards,
paul...

So I haven't bothered to crank down on the battery terminals in my testing simply because I've connected/disconnected so many times. They're on snug just hadn't tightened down on the nuts. You're not saying its a simple lack of hard core 12v power coming off the battery are you? (as it pertains to 343 and ground 107)?

I've had the motor purring off and on, this is a random issue I feel not an absolute, otherwise it wouldn't start or run. I will be so unbelievably pissed if its been something stupid like not tightening the battery terminals down!!!

I hope for your sake that it IS that unbelievably stupid. Much better than some expensive alternatives!



/

Well seems we are going to be both disappointed! Replaced the switch, cranked down on the terminals and nada!! Huge backfire and just spins, no start!

Back to the drawing board :confused:

update: 15 mins later

I got it to start and run but ran as it has before, barely, then with a little throttle input it purred at 2k for a few moments. The CEL started to flash and it instantly went to running on what seemed like less than 6 cyl's, spitting sputting etc. Then I got it to rev up past 4k and it smoothed out a bit but was hard to keep up there. It just doesn't want to run on its own and smoothly. I did find what I think was a loose plug connection to the rear most pass side coil pack, after that is when it started. Now I'm wondering if coil packs and plugs isn't the next thing I should chase. The P0107 code disappeared from the CEL list so thats good. Just a 300 and 343 still...

On a side note the ignition switc did nothing for my constant blower motor running. May just pull its fuse and the hell with it.......track cars don't need a/c and blowers :D or radios!

Anyone have thoughts?


UPDATE TO UPDATE:

SO.......I got it to start, run(ran total of 30 mins), idle and...........I drove it!! Now, it had no power, seemed like it ran on three cyls and had 0 throttle response, I had to baby the pedal to keep it happy enough to get me home. I don't believe its the MAP (MAF). Once it was running on its own, I unplugged the sensor, system picked up on it and actually idled better for a moment then went back to its usual ways. Let it run for a while and the MAF codes went away, so it seems to be working ok. I spun the motor at rest to over 6k so I'm thinking the vario cam solenoids are working.......just doesn't have any input response. Plugs can't be that fouled could they? Bad coil packs would throw codes.....no? Damn it I'm stumped!!