Top stuck closed, no motor noise, p-brake light on
 

I ran a search and got some helpful info, but nothing exactly on point. Here is as much as I know:

Parking break is engaged with parking break light on
Windshield top connector lowers both windows when pressed
When pressing convertible button on console, no motor noise at all
convertible light does not come on

Few more things:

This has been a bit of an ongoing problem. For a few weeks, the top would not come down about 30% of the time. However, sometimes it would come down like a minute or so later if I was stopped at a light. Now, though, it does not come down at all. Tried about the last dozen times I've gotten in the car. No sun.

While I was able to get the top down, top never had a problem going back up. This makes me think it might be a problem with the latch or possibly even the top down part of the button? Fuses?

I am a novice at all of this. I don't have great instincts with this type of stuff. Apologies if this is an easy fix or I am missing something obvious. Thanks a million for any type of info.

Ok. I've done more searching. This post from renntech (second post down) is most on point. My 1998 Boxter Top wont go up or down - 986 Boxster Top Issues and Solutions - RennTech.org Forums

Fuses: Checked both. Didn't clean or anything but both look good.

Switch: That post made it seem as if it was simple to pull the switch out of the console. It did not seem so to me. All I ended up doing was rocking the switch and fearing that I would break it. Any thoughts?

Control module: Will check this tomorrow possibly. I access this area by removing the panel under the steering wheel? Dumb question I know, but it's not 100% clear.

I haven't approached the motor yet because the convertible light does not come on, so I'm assuming it's a problem on the console/switch end. Does this sound like a good idea or do I eventually need to check the motor?

Second update:

Put this on hold for a while because I was occupied with other things. Yesterday, though, I was waiting at the longest traffic light of my life. About 4 minutes in I decide to try to drop it and it works (of course the light turns green right when I do it). The only difference from the other times is that I had been driving the car around for most of the day.

This morning when I start it, the top will not drop. However, about 30 seconds later at the first stop sign, it does work and the top comes down. What :confused:

Anybody have any clue as to why it's working intermittently or seemingly only after the car has moved? Btw, thanks for all the responses so far. :p

Just went through this recently (minus the "no motor noise"). Replaced console sensor, did the fuse and relay tap thing, replaced top latch assembly and switch, etc. Ended up buying a driver's side top transmission from a salvage car (ebay) and replaced it. Working again.

The issue is caused by a little plastic gear inside the top transmission that cracks and breaks with age. From what I read, and the way it looks physically, is that this is by design so that it acts as a first failsafe if something expensive breaks or binds. It prevents costly damage to other top parts by sacrificing a "cheap" plastic gear. The irony is that they don't sell just the plastic gear, so you have to buy the whole transmission assembly... this is why I got a salvaged unit as the new ones are $$$. Mine came with a new cable attached as well so it was a fairly straight-forward swap. Not a hard project at all.

If you're lucky, maybe your transmission and gears are just fine and it could be the cable is slipping or is no longer "catching" by the transmission. I had this issue with the new one I put in because the cable wasn't seated all the way in on both ends and therefore the transmission wasn't able to "grab" it to drive the top.

If you disconnect the cables (both sides!) from the motor in the middle (not sure what year you have, but it's different here), you can operate the top with the button and you should be able to hear the motor spin freely. Listen for inconsistent "whine" from the motor as this may indicate a failing motor.

Not a transmission problem...he has no motor noise, hence nothing driving transmissions.
Pull you top control module, clean with contact cleaner and reseat firmly into fuse panel.

Can you elaborate? I think I know what you are talking about, but I'm unsure where to clean. And contact cleaner?

You can get electrical contact cleaner at Walmart or any auto store. The top control relay looks like a large (double sized) relay toward the top right of your fuse panel. It will have a white label on it.

Pull out the top control relay and spray the electrical contacts with the cleaner. You can also spray into the relay socket in the fuse panel. A little spray is all you need.

Give it a shot. Make sure the relay is fully seated in its socket when you reinstall.

dghii,

Thanks for the help. I have located the unit. Do I just pull it out of the tray? I have pulled very hard on it and it doesn't seem to budge. Short of getting both hands in there and yanking as hard as possible, I'm not exactly sure how to get it out.

This is the unit, correct?

http://www.renntech.org/forums/uploa...1084760371.jpg

Nevermind! I quit being dainty and ripped that sucker out. Pulled out the little white one next to it first to get a better grip. Cleaned the contacts and now the top works. Still need to see if it is persistent in coming down over the next few days, but this is definitely a good sign.

A note for the future.
If you are working on your electrical system in any fashion, don't wear anything made of metal on your hands or wrists.
Ask me how I know about this.

Good Deal! Hopefully you're back in business.

This happened to me. (once)
No noise from the motor and top stuck in the down position.
I was worried I would not get the top back up.
I checked the fuses and they were fine. (I did have to reset the clock) :-(
I drove the car a bit and it worked again.
????
The only difference was I had my seatbelt off?
(should not have made any difference?)
I think driving the car might have shaken the sensors?
If it happens again, I will try the relay contacts.

Failing ignition switches will produce weird, intermitent issues as well.

Bad news today. It is currently in the down position. I've cleaned the contacts and sockets multiple times. It will not come up. This has not happened before. I honestly have no idea what the issue is. It is completely random if it works or not, although remaining down is a new thing.

I'm going to drive it around to see if that helps. Any additional tips or help is appreciated.

...and 15 minutes later the top is closed. Car never moved. Only difference was time. Not being able to open the top is one thing, but I do not want to get caught in a downpour with the situation I just had. :confused:

And of course ...you're doing this with the engine running.

I don't know what you mean by that. The car is turned on when I am trying to operate the top, yes.

Just wanted to check back in since this may be searched in the future. Turns out, it was the latch microswitch all along.

My indy said almost all top failures are due to the microswitches. In my case, I think the switch failed between releasing the latch and trying to open the top. In other words, the latch would signal the windows down but would go cold immediately after. Sounds stupid, but every failure I've had since has been solved by simply repressing the microswitch.

I was also able to reposition the top to hook into the microswitch better. This has decreased the failure rate significantly.

TL;DR: If your windows drop but the top won't open, try pressing the microswitch again.

That's the way to finish a story. Thanks, very useful!