IF you pick it up make sure you get the brakes flushed. Porsche receommends that they are done every two years regardless of mileage.

The main difference between the 2000 and the 03 is going to be a glove box, glass rear window, and a little more HP in the 2003. It seems silly, but the glove box is really nice to have, and there is a reason so many replace the top with a glass window. No more "chop" when putting down the top.

With that said, you will LOVE either one.

Interesting that 40K additional miles of wear and tare still puts you in the same general price point simply because its 3 years newer despite the car being 90% the same as the much lower mileage 2000 S.

My Boxster S had barely 9K on the odometer, it was literrally showroom condition as that's where it was sitting when I came in to check it out. So I passed on newer Boxster S's to go for the mileage. Thus defying the conventional Porsche wisdom of "buy the newest Porsche you can afford".
I think the wisdom should be dictated by "how many miles do you plan to put on the car?". The odometer range of 10K to 50K seems to be the most trouble free as early issues have been ressolved in warranty and most major items are good for at least 40K miles.

Climate Control
 

Hello,
I have a 2002 Boxster S and I would like to know if anyone knows how to change form farenheit to celcius on the climate control unit? Thanks. Mauricehttp://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1375289376.jpg

momo, I don't have my manual in front of me but I believe that with the ignition on, if you turn the adjustment knob to the right of your tachometer to the left (counterclockwise) and hold for 5-10 seconds, it will change miles to kilometers and should also change the temperature reading to metric.

Brad

PS My car is a Canadian spec one that was originally delivered in metric and I assume that the yours is US spec - it may be that the temperature display on the HVAC controls do not change simultaneously.

When selling a car or anything for that matter, I get lots of emails, texts, and sometimes calls asking if I will take XXXX? For me, I don't take anyone serious unless they are standing in front of me. You really need to do it in person. There is something different about a buyer who is standing in front of you with cash in hand, ready to buy. Just my opinion of course.

You absolutely right, I would defiinatelly do that it he car would be close to me,
I just dont want to do 2.5 hrs of driving one way to get my offer turned down, or seller will take an advantage of that I drove that far to get that car that means i can pay his price....

opinions suggestions?


P.S you guys are way more helpfull than VWVortex members when i was buying my CC :D

2 1/2 hours to get a car is nothing. Just a nice morning drive. And ALWAYS be willing to walk away.

When I go to look at, and possibly buy, a car I already have a price in my head that I am willing to pay. If I can't get it for that, then I walk.

Car seems nice and also well maintained. The speed humps and plastic body work do nothing for me, so that would not affect what I would be willing to pay. You want a Tip, and as you are finding out not so many of those.

I sure wouldn't pay $20K for that car. But that is just me.

I flew from Dallas to Atlanta to get mine. I work for an airline so the ticket cost wasnt a factor but it still cost me my time if it didn't work out. Of course I also had to drive it back:D I felt it was worth the risk because the car was exactly what I wanted. Buyer obviously knew that I was serious, and I got a fantastic price. If it is really what you want, make a day of it and drive out there. Or, just call and ask your price. It's up to you.:cheers:

I sold my previous car to a guy who boarded a plane from FL to NJ. I picked him up at the terminal and he drove it right back to Florida after I filled the tank for him.

But when I was on the phone with him the day before I made it crystal, please do not show up with less than the amount we agreed to because I would hate for you to have to go home empty handed.

I would make the 'pending PPI and leak down' offer for X amount put it in writing with your signature on it, a blank line for his name, with a note that says if the PPI and leak down result in needed repairs that you are free to revisit your offer price.
email it to him. He doesn't need to sign it just shows what you're prepared to pay before you make the trip. If you like how the car looks and drives, put a deposit on it and ask him to sign on the blank line so he doesn't sell it to someone with a higher offer.

Update:

Got the car!!!
For the price i was asking for:)

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-oV.../IMAGE_32.jpeg

Congrats. Looks great!

2 years ago I paid 21K for an 03 S with 21,500 miles. Basically stock, but with all records and good history. YMMV

Thanks!

I like everything about the car but the wheels they are pushed in too much especially rear wheels

Are there any spacers i can use to pushe them out close to fender?

Any wheel recommendation? Size wise?

I bought 18's for mine that came from a 911. Because of that, I had to get 20mm spacers which I got from Wheel Dynamics. Give Eli a call (you can find his number on the site) or shoot him an email. The quality of the spacers is excellent and they are hub centric plus I found the price reasonable. I am still debating on pushing the fronts out a bit to even them out with the rears.

Congrats on a great car and for the price you wanted:cheers:

Original wheels:
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1376239678.jpg

New wheels:
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1376239786.jpg

Spacer(the calipers have since been painted):
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1376239822.jpg