Rear Track Arms
 

Hi All,

I am getting the infamous clatter from the rear suspension when going over rough road. I am convinced it's the rear track arms after doing some research on here.

I want to replace my OEM ones...what are the available options?

It seems like it's either stock or the rebuilt ones from Vertex. I saw that people were getting adjustable ones from ebay, but I don't see those on there anymore.

I am about to pull the trigger on the Vertex ones (because they have upgraded polyurethane bushings) but then I saw this thread: http://986forum.com/forums/323257-post8.html

Does anyone have any input/experience?

Thanks!

Hi Chard,
I did the Vertex ones a little over a year ago & I've been quite pleased with them.
FYI, since the urethane bushings are quite stiff it will be a treat getting them in at first, it took a bit of fiddling the rear suspension to get everything in place for the bolts went back in. But all in all well worth it.

Hey Bryan,

Thanks for the assurance. I just ordered a pair for the rears. Crossing fingers this install isn't a PITA! Oh, and also hoping it solves the clatter.

It totally solved the chatter on my car. Just be patient & take your time installing them, it can be frustrating but once you have everything lined up it goes together like a Porsche is supposed to.

Awesome. I've done extensive suspension work on my old A4 and a bit on my 335i so I'm sure this will be a breeze. I was just worried about the new bushing not fitting to the chassis, but hopefully that isn't a problem.

Ditto on the Vertex arms. I was cursing, then all of sudden they slipped right in. Put the fwd ends in first, then twist control arm ends into position.

Thanks for the tip. I will definitely try to get the front part in first as that's where I see the issue with tightness. They should be shipping out today/tomorrow so I'm excited to get these in soon. The clatter makes me sad.

Is this a safety or handling issue? I do take my car to the track. On past BMWs, old rear trailing arm bushings could allow the rear to go toe-out, so I would like to be aware of similar issue with the Boxster (a new-to-me 2002). Thanks.

What would be a reasonable price (parts & labor) to replace both rear trailing (track) arms at an indy shop?

After doing the job on a driveway on jackstands, I would say a shop could do both sides on a lift in 2 hours. 3 would be the most I'd pay.

It was a fairly easy install. The 2nd side took less than half the time the first side did.

Is this something that a somewhat handy guy can do himself? What's the most difficult part of the job? Any special tools needed? One man job? Thanks!

the hardest part is getting the arms in and the holes to line up. There isn't very much room to access the upper mount, but I was able to with a long extension.

I didn't really use anything special that I can recall. I did have an air tools which helped out a bunch. It also helps to have a 2nd person.

One tip, you'll have to jack up/down the whole brake/suspension assembly until you can get the alignment right.

Thanks, one more question, will replacing the trailing arms affect the wheel alignment in anyway?

I'm not 100% sure, but not that I can imagine.

i am changing mine too. the rattle is very annoying. i took it to an indy as well. however, we are not sure if it is the long track arms or the short ones. the indy thinks that it is the short ones. but per all of the discussion on line here, most people seem to replace the long arms and resolve the problem. so i'm crossing my fingers. incidentally, it was noticed that the cv boot was also torn, so i'll have to replace that as well.

regarding alignment, my indy said that if you replace only the long arm, it shouldn't affect the alignment. but if you replace the short arm, you will have to realign the axle.

If it is the long track arms, is this a safety or handling issue or just an irritating noise?

Track arm replacement will not affect alignment. Replacement of control arm (shorter arms) will require an alignment.

FYI, do the drop links while you're in there...easy (and cheap) to do and they can rattle too.

Both. The suspension controls tremendous forces, especially with the engine overtop of them. The less slop the better. Worn bushings are dangerous and can cause erratic handling. Hitting a bump while cornering on slippery surfaces would allow unwelcome geometry changes and could cause an unexpected loss of traction. In this case, I would think that slop would increase toe-out' while under load just as you mentioned, encouraging the rear end to steer a larger radius than the front and presto, you've got oversteer where you shouldn't. Tight is right- that's why race cars have monoball joints- smooth, controlled predictable suspension movement/ handling.

Thanks for all the info! Where would be a good place to get trailing arms (with rubber bushing)?