Those of you with multiple water pump failures
 

How often did you check the coolant level after installing the prematurely failed pump? Was the coolant level always at the hash marks in the first year?

Looks like I've got another air bubble in mine after a very recent installation of pump #2. I'm starting to wonder if this is the culprit of so many failed pumps. Getting all the air out looks like its a time-consuming process if done correctly.

That is the number one reason I bout the uView Airlift 550000 vacuum system. Figured it was the easiest way to make sure I didn't have an air bubble and easiest way to fill it. I don't regret the $110 I spent on it at all.

Are you installing Porsche water pumps or those Laso ("OEM") pumps?

Wait a cotton pickin minute...you mean to tell me a $90 (Amazon) vac will do the trick? What are mechanics using in their own shops?

This water pump job at a $1000 shop rate is not something you want to screw up needlessly.

+1 - works great. Well worth the money. Gotta have a decent compressor to use it though.

Airlift is the only way to go with these cars. I find what kills more pumps than anything is people choosing the cheapest replacement pump. A close second comes from debris in the cooling system that remains after one pump fails, which takes out the next pump in short order.

Pumps are not created equally and cheap parts sources don't know this, because they don't live, eat and breathe engines.

Uview actually makes the Porsche OEM tool that sells for north of $700, and looks just like the one sold on Amazon for around $100, only it does not have a Porsche logo and part number on it.

So this may seem like an obvious question but does using the cheap pump create more clean up when pump #3, #4 is installed? Or are they 'clean' premature failures? If so it sounds like another reason not to go cheap.

which makes me wonder who would needlessly pay the premium. This doesn't seem like an item a person unfamiliar with wrenching would pick up.

I'd never heard of the uView Airlift 550000 until I researched the P-Car water pump replacement. But having burped the car during the flush (I filled it and emptied it three times) before my uView came in that I can tell you from experience that the vacuum method is definitely preferable.

what kind of compressor do you have?

Perfectlap, I have a small 3 gallon compressor. It is a bit small, but I was still able to use it to get to 25 PSI on the uView (24 ~ 26 PSI recommended). I did have to go through a couple of cycles. Start the compressor and start the vacuum, flip the switch on the uView to hold the vacuum, let the compressor come back up to 100 PSI, flip the switch on the uView, etc. Took two or three cycles to get it there. Held pressure for several minutes as suggested to test for leaks, then swapped in the other hose with the 5 gallon bucket of coolant and let it fill.

I've got the Dewalt D55168 1.6 HP, 200 PSI, 15 Gallon. It's got all the capacity I need to run air tools plus, being a vertical tank, has a relatively small footprint. I picked it up slightly used for $200, and the guy threw in an impact gun, an air ratchet, and 25' of hose.

ah impact gun. Now that's a score.

Interesting. I checked with my indy and they said they use one of these.
Which makes me wonder why the coolant level would have dropped by roughly the same amount twice now since replacing the water pump in May. I've only driven the car a few times, but the driving is typically over an hour, so it seems like an enough time for a possible bubble to re-emerge.
If I had a hose issue I would imagine that the coolant would have dropped by a much bigger amount after a month now. Both times I could only see the coolant in the tank if I pulled back the carpeting. Sounds like a bubble right?

Perfect... You may not have a coolant leak...
Did you drive with the coolant tank bleeder valve flipped open after the new pump was installed?
After replacing the pump / fluid it is advisable to open the bleed valve and leave it open for several heat cycles or for a few days driving - this usually gets rid of any small air pockets left in the system. If your mechanic used the manual way of filling the system (like I do as I don't have an Airlift) the chances of air pockets are more than even. Driving with the coolant tank showing full and the bleed valve opened usually results in the level dropping untill all the air is purged. Top up as required.

^ nope my mechanic said they used the vacuum fill. Which makes me wonder why there was a bubble the first time around let alone the second.

Well, why not try flipping up the vent valve and see if the coolant level stays the same over a few heat cycles......

I thought you're not supposed to do that after using vacuum fill? Someting about letting in more air that could turn into a bigger problem upstream.

after the heads were off my car I had to top up the coolant twice. Been fine since. I don't know what process the mechanic used though.

^ how low did the coolant get (relative to the has marks) before you topped it off each time?

Perfectlap, I hate to say this, but crawl under your car and look for leaks. I replaced all my hoses and clamps and found that one of the hoses to the front radiator was leaking. I lost enough coolant in 6 weeks to drop my reservoir to the minimum mark. I repositioned the clamp and it seems to have stopped. Will know more after my trip.

Thats the first I've heard about this - its a pressurised system with a one way bleed valve which only lets air (or fluid under high pressure) out.

You're correct and that prompted me to go through my notes. I had the coolant tank replaced two years ago. and in looking that up it turns out I've had this sudden drop/bubble before, the first time I did a coolant flush after the car was 10 years old, or a year before the old coolant tank split. Seems like each time the cap is taken off the coolant tank, I end up with a drop in coolant some time later. First time was the flush and recently with the waterpump. I still have the car's original 2000 cap....

I'm not sure if this is a factor related to the cap issue, but both drops in coolant seemed to occurr when ambient air was hot (over 90F) and I was driving the car around for at least an hour.

Perfectlap: the coolant went just below the low mark and then I had it topped up. This occurred in a few days and hasn't moved since.

Hmmm, I ahven't had to top up my coolant since I DIY'ed the pump and both rads 30k miles ago.

I didn't do anything clever, but I did follow the bleeding routine from (I think) Pelican Parts to the letter. Sure it's a little long winded, but it's not that bad.

Can only go on my experience and my experience is that you don't need fancy equipment.

Water pump questions ?
 

Let me start by saying [B]thank you[/B] to all here who have contributed information to get me this far. I had a water pump failure in the best possible place. Three blocks from home. I heard a thump and the warnings lit up. I thought it was just the belt but inspection revealed the water pump pulley shaft had snapped. OK I got 83,500 K out of it. When I removed the pump the original full gasket was present, but there were newer hose clamps and possibly at least one new hose at the pump. I have no records from the PO (grrr). I don't know what type of coolant was in there. I got four gallons of green stuff out. My first question is. Was the original coolant green? I plan to flush but don't know how meticulous to be as I will be using Porsche pink and distilled H2O as I go back to avoid [I]the gel[/I].Second question. Are the longer water pump bolts located at 3 and 6 o'clock looking in from the passenger compartment? They seem well seated in those positions. From advice here I installed a composite impeller pump, new low temp thermostat,new hose clamps and drain plug crush washer. I inspected the engine mount and did a new fuel filter since I was there. Bought the latest version of the coolant expansion tank cap. Got a new serp belt although the old one looked OK. I also did new mobile 1and filter, repaired under panels (thanks Pedro) replaced missing bolts on brackets and threw in an air filter. I can see upcoming service needs and will address the usual suspects as this experience has been rewarding thus far.

I feel for you, man. Been there, done that. What a PITA. I had to drain it all and flush numerous times.

From my recollection of the issue it could be your cap. Why not replace it with the updated version - they're cheap.

Vista glass, I did this myself. Had green went pink. :) I just bought 10 gallons of distilled water for the flush. After the first one, the second came out mostly black (in the bottles). I bought another 5 gallons and flushed it again. Seemed to be hose particles. Which is why I replaced my main hoses and will repalce all the front hoses when I add my center radiator this fall.

It is a pain to fill and drain while still on stands and there may be an air bubble or two. I always had to do multiple fills during the heat cycle venting procedure as descrribed in the bently manual. I bought the uView 550000 because of that and used it for my final fill. When I have to flush it again - will for center radiator if nothing else - I'll use the uView to make my life easier for the flush and fill cycles.

re: water pump failures
 

I've had my 2004 Boxster S a few years now and replaced all fluids including Porsche-branded ($35/gal) coolant.
It has about 40k miles on it now and I want to run it up to the Montreal GP weekend (8 hrs from PA).
My concern is: 15 year-old hoses and water pump survival for 16 hours on the road round trip.
How many hoses are there, anyway??
Opinions?

Not trying to incite a riot but I have replaced my water pump twice and added an S center radiator on my 99. Used the burp method each time never had a problem.

Before I changed WP, Themo and coolant flush, I drove several multi day 400+ miles/day road trips on the original WP with 85k+ miles
I drove 1000 miles straight on that same WP to Fla. once as well