Convertible top won't close - searched - please help!
 

Top is stuck in the down position.

Here's what I know:

Parking brake light works fine.

When I push on the switch in windshield latch assembly from the bottom, the windows roll up (If they are down.)

There is no motor sounds

No lights on the dash saying the top is open.

When I press the button in the cockpit, I hear a click from the relay. I hear this when I try and press the up position, but don't hear the click when I press the down position. Could this be indicative of a bad relay?

Fuses look fine, but have not replaced them. Will try this tonight when I get some new ones.

I've whacked the relay on the ground plenty of times.

I took off the micro switch and heated up the solder to the end connections and smoothed it out across the silver bands. They looked a little cruddy, but they were still connected.

With the windows rolled all the way up, they move down when I open the doors - with the top down. I think my car thinks the top is up!

The only thing I haven't inspected is the micro switch behind the drivers side seatbelt area. Not sure what to even look for there. I know there is something with a silver clip and probably a button like the other one. I will probably try pushing on it and whacking it with stuff. At the end of my rope.

Hopefully this is enough info to point me in the right direction, and not waste $$$ on diagnostics

Update: not the fuses.

Ordered a new micro switch for the latch/light assembly. My reasoning is because with the windows down, I can press on the latch and the windows roll up, but if I turn the ignition of with it held down, and then release it, the windows don't go down. So, it's the second micro switch with the two metal strips that are probably bad. Right?

The relay switch still clicks, so I think it's ok. Not sure though.

Wish I could help. Keep us updated on which micro switch maybe bad.

Will do. I tracked down a maybe-working relay my mechanic will let me try out.

The more I think about it, the more it seems it could easily be the rear switch too, by somehow not being depressed to let the car know the top is down.

This, unfortunately, is a priority today. Getting my first real dose of porsche ownership after a few months with the car. :)

Wasn't the switch. Darn.

If I use the manual procedure for raising the top - once I get it in working order, will the motor and cables will be in position to start working again?

Taking it to my mechanic tomorrow, then maybe parking it, cause I'm not sure I can afford to drive a Porsche this summer. :(

If you disconnect the pushrods and operate the top manually, the motor and V-levers will remain in the same position so that you will not have to make any adjustments to start operate it electrically again.

What year is your Boxster? Do you have the "A Version" or "B Version" transmissions and set up? Depending on the version, there are a few troubleshooting steps you can take to isolate the problem.

If your mechanic has a spare relay, make sure that it's the same version relay (i.e., if yours has black square on the top surface of the relay, make sure your mechanic's is not the version with the black triangle on it and vice-versa).

From your brief description and the replaced convertible latch microswitch assembly (2 microswitches in there), it sounds like you may have a dead spot on the electric motor. You can easily disconnect the plug to the electric motor and apply 12V power directly to the terminals and verify whether it's the electric motor. If you don't get any response applying 12V directly to it, tap the motor with a small hammer and that might "unstick" it.

Regards, Maurice.

Hi Maurice - the master himself. Thanks for chiming in.

The boxster is an '01, so it probably has the type b transmission based on my research (which honestly, was mostly your past posts.)

The spare relay I tried was the same one, with the square on it. It clicks when I depress the "up" button, but not the down button. Is this any indication that it works? We are not positive the spare is good though. Otherwise, no sound from anything.

Thanks for the info on the pushrods. I still have not looked into exactly how it all works, because pictures are no replacement for just seeing it all in action and I've only had the car a short while.

One thing that I did not mention is that prior to lowering the top for the last time, I had washed the car about an hour before, but the top was dry after a highway cruise, but I know the inspection I got recently mentioned the drains being clogged, which was on my list of things to take care of this week. Is it possible I lowered any part of the electrics into some water somehow?

Thanks again for your input. Really appreciate it!!

If it's an '01 and no one has replaced any parts related to the convertible top, you have the B Version transmissions and set up.

If that's the case, then you do have the correct double relay installed (black square).

That also means that you will not have the B Pillar microswitch (found under the semi-circular black plastic carpeted panel around the base of the roll bar on the driver's side) and you will not have the black lever microswitch (found on top of the electric motor). Those are in those locations only in the "A Version" set-up and were both moved to INSIDE the driver's side transmission on the "B Version" set-up.

Since you mentioned that your drains were clogged (and you previously mentioned that the windows dropped all the way down), I would check under the driver's seat to see if there is any moisture or water in, under or around the central alarm control unit. If there is any doubt, remove the unit and open it up to check for moisture or corrosion inside. If you catch it early enough, you can dry it with Isopropyl Alcohol and a hair dryer after the alcohol has evaporated. Also check that the 15 Amp fuse at the back of the unit is good. It's located between the two plugs.

Here is how to get access under the seat without setting off the airbag light: Central Locking System Problem - 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S) - RennTech.org Forums

You did not lower the top into any electrics because there are no electrical parts that would be affected by a couple inches of water in the convertible top well. You only get those problems once the water migrates under the driver's seat.

If there are no problems with the central alarm control unit, I would definitely isolate the electric motor and check it with an independent 12 volt source.

Regards, Maurice.

The central locking function error light comes on intermittently since I got the car a few months ago, (the little red light on the lock button stays on, and get double beep when unlocking.) I'm honestly starting to think some part of this area is the culprit, because since the roof won't go down, I don't get the double beep, which could be the way it's supposed to work, or may be indicative of a problem (not sure, without a properly working Box to compare against.) I'm particularly interesting in the fuse on the back in the control unit you mentioned.

That, or the relay is still bad, and I need to ensure I swap a working on in there before going too crazy with checking wiring and whatnot. I'd be real surprised if something went bad in that area, since the car is such low mileage and probably stored for most of its life in a garage in California. Anything is possible.

So, inspecting the driver's side transmission and microswitch is probably not a likely source? It did stop the motor just fine the last time I put it down. It seems like something is overriding the whole system, like the alarm you mentioned.

Overall, this doesn't sound that bad. It could be a few things still, at least. Haven't run out of options to try. Thanks again, as always!

The two microswitches inside the driver's side transmission don't usually cause a problem, but it has happened. Not likely the cause of your problem.

The intermittent nature of the central locking function light on the button on the dashboard may be caused by a fault in the driver's side door lock assembly. There are six solder connections and microswitches inside that assembly. When the solder connections crack (a common occurrence) you get that intermittent problem, usually accompanied by the window not staying dropped by 1/2 inch when the door is open and you let go of the handle. That is a separate problem from the convertible top but the central alarm control unit definitely affects and controls the operation of the windows.

If you install a known good relay and the problem remains, and you don't want to do electrical testing yet, try smacking the electric motor with a small hammer a few times with the convertible top switch pressed down.

Here is a diagram of where that little fuse is located on the central alarm control unit (Courtesy of Richard Hamilton).

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1372355186.jpg

Regards, Maurice.

You're the best, thanks! I will report back once I've tried everything.

This is kind of a silly question, because I should know this, but most of my cars in the past have not had any electrical problems. Anyone should be able to answer this:

What is a good thing to use for a 12v power supply for testing stuff? This comes up on my BMW occasionally too when looking into diagnostic procedures. I have a battery charger with 3 amperage settings, but I'm thinking that's not what you use. Get a small 12v battery at wal-mart, or what? :)

Bought, and tried yet another relay, and no dice. So I went to pop off the ball joints as the manual mentioned and is this some kind of joke on Porsche's behalf? I see no way of getting either of those off without damaging multiple things. I even tried a pry bar, large screw driver, and a hammer. So far, I'm just marring the connectors.

So, I'm supposed to unbolt the V-lever now to relieve pressure on the connections? Seems like getting this all hooked back up and aligned properly afterwards would be very difficult, but I need the top up asap.

Hayden:

If you are having difficulty popping off the plastic ball cups off of their respective steel balls, there is a workaround.

Put the convertible top in the "service position", then look down at the end of the V-lever where the front pushrod is fastened by a small Allen bolt. You can unscrew that Allen bolt and that will leave the front pushrod connected by the plastic ball cup only. At that point, you can reach under the rear of the convertible top, grab the front pushrod and wiggle it off the steel ball. You can reassemble it the same way, in reverse order.

The only pushrods that are under pressure are the black "hydraulic" pushrods that are connected to the other side of the V-lever and to the support arms of the clamshell.

The only pressure on the front pushrods is the weight of the convertible top and frame and it is relatively light pressure.

If you can't get the top in the service position, and the top is stuck completely open, the only way to get at "the works" is to unscrew that 19mm bolt that is holding the V-levers in place. They are on there with loctite, but they will come off. You have to use an offset box wrench to access the 19mm bolt because it's slightly recessed in a circle inside the middle of the V-lever.

Regards, Maurice.

Yeah, it's stuck open. I will need to find a larger wrench. Thanks for the prompt reply!!

edit: got larger wrench. No way it's fitting in there. No box wrenches in that size at Lowes either. Tired of throwing money at this. Off to the mechanic... which I think is pretty ridiculous for something that is outlined in the owner's manual, which can't even be remedied through the way it says (since apparently, disconnecting the V-lever is the only way to get the ball connectors off.)

Sears sells the 19mm offset box wrench that will fit perfectly on that bolt, in that position...

It looks like this one in the photo.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1373072999.jpg

Regards, Maurice.

Hayden:

I understand your frustration... I have been there many times. So, I went into my garage and got the Sears Craftsman wrench for some better photos...Here they are...

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1373073729.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1373073741.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1373073757.jpg

As I said, this one will fit perfectly as it is just thick enough to get a good bite on the 19mm bolt and still fit in between the V-Lever and the convertible top frame B Pillar when it's all the way open.

Regards, Maurice.

Hi Maurice,

Thanks for the pictures. All I was able to find locally without ordering and waiting a week were some sunken box set wrenches at Autozone, but they don't want to bite on that v-lever bolt. I think it's just too bulky and the bolt is recessed too far. I figure by leaving the v-levers on, it will help me get this all hooked back up later much more easily, so I'm still more focused on the ball connectors.

So, an update: I was able to successfully pop off both ball joints on the drivers side, and the red convertible top one on the passenger side. Then it came to the last pushrod, and it won't come loose at all. The amount of force I've exerted on that piece is insane. Enough to visibly bend a large screw driver and crow bar while prying. WD40ed the connection too. Nothing. The other side required force, but it let go just fine.

Here's the real kicker. So, as I'm in the middle of trying to get the last pushrod disconnected (remember, this is from the closed-top postion) I've used up so much energy, I needed a late night snack, so I hop in the car to go grab something and just for kicks, I hit the top up button right before exiting the garage, and for about a half second and I hear the motor run, then let go of the button because I was not expecting that, and didn't want to do any damage. I should have just taken the opportunity and delayed dinner, but nope.. ugh.

Sugarplums in my head about how the motor is fixed and as soon as I get back home, I'm going to hold the button down and get it into service position, so I can do what I may to the parts iI can now access more freely.

Get home, and the button does nothing again. My only theory is that when I popped the driver's joint off, the tension that released created a vibration that effected the motor. That, or all the hammering I've done on the end of things to get stuff wedged into places. Driving must have undone whatever was done.

Now I've got a closed clamshell with slightly (very slightly) less pressure holding it down, and a dash light saying it's open. The good news: the system CAN work. Probably not a dreaded wiring issues. The bad news: Top still stuck down, and one frustrating connector left. Intermittent motor function. Interesting, the relay clicks when hitting either up or down button down, now because the car knows the top is in limbo. Prior, I only heard a click in the up direction. This may help someone in the future diagnosing a relay. It's obvious the microswitch the cable transmission for the top is working, as well as all the other ones.

My last hope today is to get a dremel and use a cutting wheel to chop of a piece of something, but I don't know which would be the most economical piece to replace. I could go through the thin part of the "hydraulic" push rod, or, more likely, shear off the ball connector from the v-lever. It is threaded into the v-lever, and I've already tried backing out the bolt until it's now stripped. Can that ball joint be purchased separate from the V-lever? Cheaper than shearing off the shaft of the pushrod?

So, this has turned out to be quite the confusing case. Both microswitches, relay, fuses and switch work because the motor started working. Surely this is something to do with the motor, and/or connections to it. If I could just get back there! I spent a solid two hours on the last connector, and a pool of sweat. I know there is a clip, or some such, that hold the other end onto the clamshell, which I might also look into, but with the pressure exerted on this thing I don't want it to pop off near my glove while my arms are up in there. It's quite a contorted reach up there.

Hope this helps someone out there, and any assistance regarding which part to cut off would be helpful. Thanks!

The little steel ball is the least expensive part to replace, and it is available from Porsche as part # 986.561.689.00. Porsche calls it a "ball pin", and it lists for about $18.00.

If you can get at it with a Dremel tool and shear it off, that will release the clamshell (since you already have the other side off).

Then you can open the clamshell and operate the canvas part of the convertible top manually to get it into the service position.

Be careful when the pressure is finally released from that one remaining black pushrod as it may kick up a bit. Inside the black "hydraulic" pushrod is a large spring and the V-lever rotates near the end of the cycle to pull on the clamshell (and puts the spring under pressure).

Regards, Maurice.

So, I actually went to the Porsche dealership (since I bought the car from them, and wanted to minimize the chances of someone tearing/breaking/scratching/denting anything) and their best tech happened to be walking by as I told the sales guys my long story. He was an older fellow that looked like he had been working on Porsches since I was born. They said he's the best there. Anyways, he takes an interest in what I'm saying, then goes and gets out all his fancy pry bars and whatnot. Wasn't able to budge the damn thing any better than I could.

Obviously frustrated, he grabs the keys from me and pulls it around to the bays, and comes back and throws me the keys without much of a word. "How'd you fix it?" His reply: "Sawzall" without turning around. The sales people were like, 'he's just kidding', and I was thinking, 'no he isn't.' Sure enough. He took the route I was planning and went through the $8 bolt. I think it could be done pretty easily with a hacksaw, in case anyone in the future is reading this, and is in a pinch.

So where are we now with this particular car? I got a top that manually goes up and down, but to my surprise, the convertible light is still on. I thought once the top latch was secured, the "system" wouldn't care anymore.

I'll update this once I figure out what the real cause is. I will say, not being able to put your top up in the Texas heat is agonizing. Rain started to move in today, and it came down to business. Got a sweet tan out of the ordeal though! :)

In the "B Version" top transmissions Boxsters (i.e., 2000 and later), the transmissions are 360 degree gears, unlike the earlier versions that had "half-moon" gears". Inside the driver's side transmission in the B Versions, one of the two microswitches is the one that "tells" the "top open" light to go on and to go off.

If you manage to rotate the V-levers with the electric motor (now that you have access to the electric motor), you should be able to get the light to go out.

Testing the electric motor would be the best place to start to try to diagnose the source of the problem.

Regards, Maurice.

*subscribed*

Going through the EXACT same thing currently and trying to eliminate switches little by little. I replaced the one under the handbrake already and that fixed my "PARK" light on the gauge issue. But no dice on the top going up or down consistently.

I have a 2000 so I'm guessing I have the "B Version" transmissions as well. I unhooked the transmission cables from the motor on both sides and when I hold the switch down, the motor continuously spins like it should (no dead spots or hesitation). This is a good thing right?

My next step will be the microswitch above the rearview mirror. My top light doesn't go on at all, even in fully-closed position. That's gotta mean something right? :)

EDIT: I'm going to try to stop by the dealership tomorrow to get the microswitch above the mirror, but I'm a little confused still on what "Version" I have. Being a 2000 makes it even more difficult. I don't have the little "lever switch" thing on the top of the motor under the clamshell. I DO have the dual-row looking switch above the mirror though. Every reference I see to this switch though says 97-99!

97-99 - 986.613.795.02 (http://www.************************************************************************************.com/store/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=9045) looks like my switch, but will that work on my year model?

No dead spots or hesitation is definitely a good thing.

Not having the black lever microswitch on top of the electric motor means it's the B-version transmissions and set-up. To confirm it further, take a look at the double relay in the relay tray above the fuse tray in the driver's side kick panel. If you have a black square on the top surface of that relay, it's definitely the B-Version system. A black triangle is for the A Version.

The parallel strips microswitch in the convertible top latch receptacle assembly can cause intermittent operation because it develops cracks which are hard to see with the naked eye. The cracks are minute enough that heat (such as the sun beating down on that area) can cause it to make contact and break contact again when it cools down. If you are not sure which version of this microswitch you have, remove it and bring it to the dealer to compare with the new part.

If the "convertible top open" light does not go on or off at the appropriate times in the cycle, you have to look into one of the two microswitches INSIDE the driver's side transmission.

Regards, Maurice.

Hi Maurice! This may be backtracking, and answered elsewhere, but is there a way to manually test if the upper microswitch is working? If I latch it the windows go up. If I unlatch it, they drop. With it latched, vs. unlatched, the alarm acts as it should. Does this mean it is working, or is there another sensor in there that detects something, which cannot be tested manually?

Currently, I have all the rods taken off the v-levers and am enjoying the car's manual mode, though the clamshell and top assembly rattle around a lot. I can live with that for now. Keeping an eye on things though. That trim at the back of the clamshell can come loose, it seems. Bungie cords, or some sort of spring to connect the old v-lever to the clamshell attachment point is my next project. Maybe adding some rubbing strips to keep it from clunking. Honestly, I like the manual mode a lot. It also allows me to fold the plastic window more perfectly as it goes down, so it doesn't crinkle up as much.

Stopped by dealership today. Confirmed the difference between the two part numbers, one being -99 and the other 00+. I have a 2000, so of course, it could go either way, so I'm gonna have to take it loose to see what I have. For shigrins, I asked him what that switch costs and he says $110!!! yikes. He said "Yea, the prices go up every 2 weeks. Been like that for years now" (something to that effect). Good to know... that's why i'll keep supporting our vendors online!!

Now, I'm having a real hard time finding that 00+ part number online to purchase. 986.613.799.00

Where's the cheapest place online to get that one?

Im not sure why you are even looking to replace that switch , but anyway , Your dealer is ripping you off !!!
It is a $70 part collected at the counter (minus my pca discount)
Or a 55 buck part if I order online and pay at the counter . ( I'm only 15 mins away so never pay for delivery)

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x...psf178f6df.jpg

wow that's crazy! well I knew he sounded high on the price (which is why I passed on it), but sheesh!!

Was looking to replace as it was a cheaper/easier fix than the transmission stuff under the clamshell. Going through process of elimination with all the parts of the system...

I STILL have not managed to get the convertible top light to come on no matter what. I guess my next step is to crack open that driver's side top transmission and see if something isn't right. I managed to break the little clips on the courtesy light above the rearview mirror when taking apart that latch assembly.. ugh...

I did confirm I have the "B version" setup though. Is it dumb to just purchase a new/used left transmission and swap it out? I've run out of things to check.

EDIT: I tried to look at that switch without taking the two little gold "clips" off, but never saw a part number on it?? I can't tell if I need the -99 one or the 00+ one (i have a '00 though).
EDIT 2: Also, that is corrosion on each end of the two strips. I scraped it off and cleaned both real well. Checked continuity of each strip with a multimeter and reinstalled, but didn't seem to help at all.

Have you checked the bulb ?

Not yet :)
I guess that could be checked huh? Doesn't seem like it will resolve the actual issue in this case but may help me know if the switches are being "triggered" properly.

In all honesty , it would be the first thing I'd check !!!

That dash light should only be OFF when the hood is either up or down .
from the time it is unlatched at the front all the way to its fully down position , and viceversa it should be lit .

Finally got around to this today.. got the gauge cluster off and... SURE ENOUGH!! the bulbs for the 3 right-most items was gone. I think I had removed these a while back during a "blue light" conversion on the gauges. So.. I put bulbs in the two that appeared to be related to the top (the furthest right and the one directly next to it to the left).

Put the key in.. convertible top light is ON! played with the button a few times, got the top all the way open again and remained holding the button to see if it would turn off, nope. Holding it long enough eventually resulted in "clicks" on the driver's side transmission area.

Well I had one of these delivered today as well and am in the middle of the swap. I'm at the point where I have the new one in, but the V-lever is in a different spot than my original was. I guess this is the "syncing" I see a lot of DIY's reference. I'm not understanding the drill approach. I put my drill on the cable end of the new transmission, give it a few presses, but I don't see the V-lever side move at all. Is that supposed to happen?

What is the other option to get the V-levers lined up? disconnect the passenger side (original and working) and then use the car's switch to make it rotate? Do I keep the incorrect V-lever side cable connected or disconnected during this?

What a pain in the assssssss

I'm to the point of assuming that my (used) replacement transmission assembly and cable has a bad cable on it. Nothing I do makes the V-lever move at all. Tried the drill trick, the motor, nothing works...

Is the metal cable inside the black sheath supposed to be able to go in and out?? What keeps the cable on the transmission end from "unplugging" from the little metal roller inside? I hear the cable "turning", but the v-lever never moves no matter how long I hold the button or spin the drill for. Is this a clear indicator the cable isn't seated?

Because there is a slot at the rear of the V-levers there are two possible ways to install them...the correct position and 180 degrees off. So, first check to see if you may have re-installed that V-lever upside down.

More likely, the new transmission was at a different point in the rotation cycle than the one that you removed. For the drill approach, disconnect the drive cable from the electric motor on that side and insert the inner metal cable into the chuck of a cordless drill, set on the LOWEST torque setting. When you turn on the drill, it will spin the inner cable which will turn the worm gear at the rear of the transmission and that will then rotate the big gear and the V-lever will then start to rotate.

Make sure that you put a little pressure on the end of the inner metal cable by pushing the drill towards the transmission. It is sometimes possible to just pull out the inner metal cable from its metal sheath, so make sure that it is engaged.

The drill will spin quickly but the V-lever will rotate slowly.

If the lever does not rotate at all, the inner metal cable may be split or frayed, or the worm gear may not be completely secured in its place because the black plastic housing cover may be slightly deformed.

If you want to try the other option, just keep in mind that pressing the button will only turn the V-lever if the electric motor is spinning with the drive cable properly engaged both at the electric motor side and at the transmission side.

You have to have the "original and working side" disconnected so that the other side can "catch up".

If you want a good starting point for synchronizing the transmissions, take a look at the photo on page 39 and the text at the bottom of page 38 on the Part III PDF at this link: https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/installinga'03-'04glasstopandframeona'97

Regards, Maurice.

Looks like you have gotten excellent advice thus far. Just went through a similar issue with my 2002S. Right side drive cable was broken. That was not the cause of failure. The problem you had with ball pin stuck in the black spring push-rod is what caused mine to fail. Forced the upper pin of the black push-rod out (under tension & big pop). The bat wing Vee bar was so tight I don't think I could have loosened it with a box wrench. I used a socket and breaker bar (long pipe on handle of 1/2 inch drive). Not good for your tools but one click at the time it finally came loose. The rear bolt to top push-rod was fairly easy
Then to the vise to pry black push-rod off ball pin. Corrosion of this socket caused failure. Cleaned and lubed socket and now working. Had to use the vise to press ball back into socket. Replacements on order. I hate to cut any parts. As Maurice said you have to spin the cable a lot for very little movement. If you are certain the drive cable is good and you are certain the transmission is not moving, there is a plastic gear in the trans mission that can break. Not totally convinced a corroded socket caused failure I did open the transmission. Fortunately all was fine inside. Transmissions are very expensive so you don't want to go there. If you do open the transmission do so very carefully. There are alignment marks on case. If the plastic gear is bad I think you have to buy the whole transmission. I would be very certain it doesn't move before tearing into it. If you think the cable is bad you can pull the inner core out to make sure it is intact. Good Luck.

To provide closure, I got this all sorted!

After installing the new (used) driver's side transmission, the drill "trick" and even hooking it up to the motor never turned the v-lever... I was exhausted, but knew it was most likely the cable not being "seated" in the metal roller on the transmission side (I figured this as I disassembled the removed one to see what the internals looked like).

So back apart it came... reseated the cable, and glued it in as well. Also glued the cable itself to the 3 clips on the transmission body to keep it from pulling out also.

After re-install, the drill trick started to work! got it close to the other side and then used the motor/switch method. Used the door "gap" and a tape measure to get both sides even. Worked like a charm. Top opens and closes perfectly now (even more flush than before the failure!!)

So... the reason for the failure was the white plastic gear inside the transmission housing. For kicks, I checked the "new" one (from an '03) and it also had hairline cracks in the plastic gear. So only a matter of time I suppose.

Appreciate all the support!

Hello all.. I am having a similar problem. My top is stuck up. All indications seem normal. Parking brake light, windows drop when center latch is released. But no motor sound at all.
I have a '99 Boxster. At first the problem was intermittent. Now, no workie at all.
I know electronics. I want to troubleshoot as much as possible from the top control relay/module.
So... Question for Maurice...
Do you have a document that shows the pin-outs for the relay? And what indications(ground, battery, etc.) would be seen at each pin (and at what state the top is in)?
I do have a wiring diagram that shows the relay and what is connected to it. But, it is not really clear as to what should be read from a multimeter on those pins.
Again, I can probably figure it all out... But, if you have already done this, it would be very helpful....

Thanks,
Phil

No response from top motor - 986 Boxster Top Issues and Solutions - RennTech.org Forums
This thread has exactly the fix I needed...
And this doc from Maurice...