My car is stalling.
 

My fuel light came on at the end of a weekend trip. I was running late for work Monday morning. So i just put in $15 to raise the fuel level for my drive to work. When i started the car i noticed that the fuel gauge didn't raise at all. Hmm. Continue to work on the hi way. When i get off i have to stop at a light. Car stalls. Starts right back up, but now gauge reads over 1/4 tank. Make it to work.

I drove to the store on lunch, no problems. On my way home from work the car stalled or wanted to stall every time i came to a stop. Like the second i lift my foot off of the gas and push the clutch in the RPM's drop to zero.

I have an appointment at the shop on Friday. I was just trying to find out if anyone has any ideas. I hooked an ODBII scanner to the car and didn't get any codes.

Sounds like it could be a vacuum leak that's causing it to stall. I would begin with the basics- vacuum leaks, loose connector wires, MAF dirty or going bad? No check engine codes come up -surprised? You should crack open the engine compartment and have a look making sure hoses and things are tight on. Another possibility is a faulty fuel pressure regulator. Why? The fuel pressure regulator maintains proper fuel pressure to the fuel injectors. Problems with this device will likely result in a fuel starved engine thus it will stall. If all of your problems only occurred after that 3-4 gallon fill-up, maybe water in the gas ?

Well i have opened the engine compartment up. I can't see any loose wires or hoses. The MAF is new last year. I wouldn't think water in the gas. It is a very busy station. I get gas there a lot with no problems before.

what year car? different years have different idle control.

1998 5-speed.

Fuel pump is going bad. Do not run these cars low on fuel or you will be replacing the pump.

Ok, went to the indy today. He hooked up the durametric. The only codes he found were pending O2 sensor codes P1276 and P0159. He advised me to change the rear O2 sensor. He also suggested cleaning the throttle body and idle control valve. He doesn't believe there are any vacuum leaks. He also thinks the fuel pump is good. I will be cleaning the throttle body and idle control valve tomorrow. Any other suggestions? Thanks.

I was under the impression there were no engine codes showing up.
Now that you have 2 showing, that's the culprit! Sort those out first, reset, and go from there...

Best

They didn't show up on my ODBII scanner. He found them with the Durametric pro at the shop.

I hear you. I sold my Durametric tool 2 years ago, it was good for 3 car vins. I should have kept it because I thought the ODB-2 scanner would do the same thing but I guess not. Thanks for clarifying that and good luck -hope that fixes your problem.

Did you figure out what was causing the issues?

added to my b-day wish list.

Porsche Boxster 986 S

Well the throttle body was removed and cleaned. The idle control valve was also cleaned. I'm still waiting on two gaskets before i put it back together. The throttle body was filthy and the valve was worse. I hope this fixes the problem.

Well the idle control valve gasket finally came in. Put everything back together. Car seems to run good and no more stalling. When i push the clutch in when coming to a stop light, the RPM's drop to 1200. Then after a slight pause drop to 800 and stay there. Seem right to me.