Parking brake cable removal, hub removal.
 

Hi

I am attempting a rear wheel bearing replacement on a 2003 Boxster S.
So far I have stripped everything back to the reveal the parking brake shoes. As I am going for a hub removal to get the hubs to the local guy to press out and replace, I will need to remove the parking brake cable from the rear of the hub.
Does anybody have a schematic of the parking brake assembly, or have any tips on how to remove the cable and cable guide from the hub?
Also whilst flushing the brake fluid I managed to snap a brake bleed nipple from the left rear caliper!!! a few were very tight. So the caliper will need to be removed for some spark eroding to the embedded nipple. The brake line connection into the caliper is also very tight, I am a bit concerned that will also snap if too much force is applied....any tips on how to remove the brake line from the caliper.
Last question......when the hub is free from the shock absorber, is it just a case of pulling it away from the drive shaft, or will I need some sort of puller to get it free?http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1359713437.jpg
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Thanks in advance for any advise on this topic.

Rob

I am in the process of finishing up this job. be prepared for difficult tasks. first you need to remove your axle . the center nut has a tremendous amount of torque on it so a large breaker bar with a pipe over it for more leverage . you need to break it with the wheel on and on the ground. removing the suspension was the easiest part. do not unbolt any suspension that is connected to the chassis because if you do you will need an alignment . A good ball joint tool is a must . after all the suspension is unbolted push the lower arm down and the carrier will slide off the strut fairly easy. the E-brake is a simple set up once you take a good look at it . the key is loosening the cable in the center console cubby in your interior. after that it is basically a bunch of springs. I had a little difficulty removing the cable from the tube on the carrier assembly . I decided to do it this way instead of using the SIR tool because I have access to a press which makes removal and installation of the bearing and hub a very easy task.
I would recommend picking up a pair of secondary cat delete pipes to replace your cats as you will find them difficult to remove and difficult to reinstall. since you have your axles removed it would be a good idea to service the cv joints and boots if needed. good luck , be patient and harbor freight is your friend .

All above is good advice. A couple of other quick points.
1. Once axle nut is off, you will need a block and hammer to drive the axle back through the hub.
2. Due to high torque on axle nuts (340ft lbs), do not reuse. Purchase new ones.
3. No need to remove brake line from caliper inlets you were planning to replace the line. Remove caliper from hub and hang the assembly out of your way with bungee cord or wire ties.
4. FYI, I fought my parking brake cable pretty good on passenger side for some reason. It didn't want to come out of the hub or go back in. No issue on drivers side. Lots of patients required.

Good luck. Somewhere online there are great instructions and pictures. I have a copy on my home PC but am working overseas right now and have no access. Sorry!

You might want to ask around for Glyns instructions. I found them most useful but I do not have a copy available to send you as I won't be home for a month or so.

Wheel bearing replacement? - 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S) - RennTech.org Forums

Thanks very much for all the advice.
I did manage to contact Glyn and he sent me across his detailed instructions, which were excellent, best I've seen so far for removing the bearing carriers.
I have both off now, and will start to remove the bearings clean and paint the parts ready for reassembly.
Hardest part of the job for me was removing both drop links from the struts, they were both seized, i had to hacksaw them off and buy replacements (not to expensive). Also dropping the bottom ball joint out of the way by myself was a task...I used a G clamp to pull the lower arm down.
Working out how to remove the parking brake cable was also tricky but once you know it is an easy job.
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Good for you! To me, doing the replacing the rear bearings were a chore. Kind of makes me want to try the SIR tool if there ever is a next time.

Best part was knowing the job cost me less than $50 per side to do versus the $800-$1,000 I'd been quoted at two indys.

The quote I got over here was £850.00 for both bearings replaced.
Cost to me £60.00 for the bearings, £30.00 for the drop links, £20.00 for tools and a beer for the local garage to undo the hub nuts.
So, definately financially beneficial. Was a bit of chore, but if I need to do the fronts it should be alot easier now I have gained a bit of know how.

I am glad i did this job also . saved $$$$ I just hope i do not have to do it again any time soon :)

I'm doing rear bearings, control arms and struts on my '97 Boxster and having trouble with the parking brake cables. Does anyone have any advice? I looked for Glynn on RennTech and it seems he hasn't been there for a while.

Thanks in advance

Dave, I replaced mine about a month ago and choose not to mess with the parking brake cable so I left the hubs in place and removed/installed the bearings using a Harbor Freight bearing removing kit, it's actually pretty straight forward as long as you reinstall the bearings facing the right way… :p (so you won't loose the ABS)

Did you do rear bearings with the HF tool? I thought I'd previously heard about it being used for the fronts.