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		|  11-15-2012, 07:34 PM | #1 |  
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				Squeaky clacking brake pads
			 
 
			They're driving me nuts. Can I add shims or grease the part of the pad where it meets the piston?
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		|  11-16-2012, 02:36 AM | #2 |  
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			You can buy the blue goo that goes on the back of the pad. I've also used several strips of duct tape on the back of the pad as a dampener.
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		|  11-16-2012, 04:40 AM | #3 |  
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			Does this blue goo have a brand name?
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		|  11-16-2012, 05:39 AM | #4 |  
	| 2001 Arctic Silver 2.7 
				 
				Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Huntington Beach,CA 
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			I heard bad things about that blue goo.Pelican Technical Article: 911 Brake Pad Replacement 
11. Do not use the anti-squeal compound pad from your Friendly Local Auto  Parts Store on the back of the brake pads. This stuff turns to glue, and  when you need to replace the brake pads again, it will destroy the  caliper dust boot when you pull the pads out (don’t ask how I know  this). Many new brake pads come with an anti-squeal coating already  applied. It looks like a thicker coat of paint on the back of the pads.  If you want to use something more I recommend a LIGHT coat of Lubro-Moly  Hi-Tack Lube Spray. Be careful not to get this stuff on the braking  surface of the pads, or on the rotors.
Bendix Ceramlub Helps Ensure Proper Brake Lubrication: Brake and Front End 
Pelican FAQ
Pelican Parts.com Performance - Cool Carbon Brake Pads
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		|  11-16-2012, 07:20 AM | #5 |  
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			I did my brakes last summer. As I was painting the calipers, everything was thoroughly cleaned. I bought the Porsche (Brembo) pads for the front, Textars for the rear, and Zimmerman coated non-drilled rotors. I also used the anti-squeal pads that Pelican sells and chamfered the leading edges of the pads.
 No squeal, squeak, chatter... nothing. They are completely silent.
 
 Perhaps if you removed the pads, cleaned everything, and installed the same anti-squeal pads, it would solve the problem. Be worth a shot anyway.
 
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				 Last edited by Mark_T; 11-19-2012 at 12:39 PM.
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		|  11-16-2012, 01:06 PM | #6 |  
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	Quote: 
	
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					Originally Posted by RandallNeighbour  Does this blue goo have a brand name? |  
What I like to use is WURTH CU1100, its a high adhesive lubricant that I use on all breaks. Its an anti-corrosion copper paste.
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		|  11-16-2012, 09:27 PM | #7 |  
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			I use CRC disk brake quiet. Cheap and easy to find. Never had a squeal. I wear out/change my brake pads 3 times a year due to heavy track duty. Yes, it gets cooked from the high track temps but never resulted in a problem. CRC/Disc brake quiet (05016) | Brake Lube | AutoZone.com
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		|  11-16-2012, 11:38 PM | #8 |  
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			I use the CDC in spray form with good success.  No one has mentioned the dog ears on the ends of the pad.  Be sure the channel they travel in is clean and smooth.
 Also, I tend to not wash my cars as much during an extended dry spells - they stay clean so I don't need to.  The down side is brake dust can accumulate and cause squeaking.  Part of your issue may be dust build-up.  Shoot those rotors well when you wash.
 
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		|  11-18-2012, 07:22 PM | #9 |  
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				Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Houston, Texas 
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			Tried some CRC on the front pads. Never really dried, but stopped the squealing. Took it for a spin and I have squeal From the back too. Grrrr.
 I chamfered the pads too. That should help. And, the CRC stuff stopped the clacking when I back up after the pads and discs are hot.
 
 Tonight I'll jack up the back of the car and do the rear pads too and hopefully, that will solve the problem until next pad change.
 
				 Last edited by RandallNeighbour; 11-19-2012 at 07:48 AM.
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		|  11-19-2012, 11:53 AM | #10 |  
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				Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Orlando 
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			When I replaced mine, I had a squeal start several weeks after the brake job. Order from Pelican, Wurth Anti Squeal Spray, 300 ml...NO more squeal.
		 
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		|  11-26-2012, 12:20 PM | #11 |  
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				Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Frederick MD 
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	Quote: 
	
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					Originally Posted by tony_fury   |  
If you use the "Blue goo" (I use CRC DBQ) properly, it sould never come in contact with the caliper piston boots. A very thin layer where the piston contacts the pad is all that is needed.  If you just gob it on in excess, then you could have trouble.
		 
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