986 S problem at idle, engine won't rev and shakes, battery disconnected

[Ghostrider 310]

Originally Posted by Heiko

I say it still could be anything... E-Gas system/MAF... potential key/ignition issue...
I think we're all assuming he changed the bulb and put everything back the way it was....
If something on the fly-by-wire wiring was jerked loose behind the dash that could also do
it... but without troubleshooting hands on, I think the chances are slim to pinpoint.
Hey Gorthour, put some floats on the bottom and drive it accross the pond and drop by with the car I'm sure we could get it running.

Every now and then, walking by my dad on the line with a customer, " I can't fix it over the phone, the tools won't reach, you'll have to bring it in so I can look at it"

[Meir]

any update on your situation?

[Gorthaur]

Originally Posted by Meir

any update on your situation?

Hi Meir and thanks for asking.

Unfortunately, I've not checked the cluster yet, I'm going to work on it on sunday.

I'll surely let you all know.

I know it would sound like a weird coincidence, but what about bad fuel? A few days before the cluster job I put 30 liters in...

[Meir]

Originally Posted by Gorthaur

Hi Meir and thanks for asking.

Unfortunately, I've not checked the cluster yet, I'm going to work on it on sunday.

I'll surely let you all know.

I know it would sound like a weird coincidence, but what about bad fuel? A few days before the cluster job I put 30 liters in...

WOW!
that changes the whole picture.
based on your sound clip, it could defiantly be the cause.
start with checking the cluster (easiest step).
if you still have a problem replace the fuel, and fuel filter.
this way or the other, i hope its one of the two. (because it a cheap fix ).
good luck my friend.

[Heiko]

Gorthaur.... Any update on this... just curious to know how you made out with this issue.
Heiko

[Gorthaur]

Originally Posted by Heiko

Gorthaur.... Any update on this... just curious to know how you made out with this issue.
Heiko

Hi guys, bad news.

Cluster job done again, all the wires are fine, same for the earthed cables, nothing wrong inside.

Battery reconnected, engine started and... 1500 rpm, not more. It really feels she's in some sort of recovery mode, there is clearly something preventing the engine from revving. In the next hours I think I will refill the tank with some fuel, I'm running out of it and I can't empty it by myself.

I'm really, really pissed off.

[Heiko]

Though it doesnt happen often, BUT you might want to check the TB to make sure the butterfly actually opens all the way when the pedal is pushed down... you just need to pull the intake pipe off and get someone to push the pedal down while the ignition is on...
I could see bad gas causing power issues, but not rev limiting issues... but hey stranger things have happened so i try not to rule out anything anymore.
Best of luck and keep us posted
H

[Ghostrider 310]

Don't work on it angry, nothing good comes from that. Instead step back and breathe, now you know the connections are solid, good one item crossed off. I'd move onto the MAF and make sure you have enough fuel in it to run it, I never let mine go too low.

[Heiko]

LMAO - It really sucks when you get so pissed off that you put a wrench through some body panel that says 'hit me' ... i've come close a few times....

[tommy986]

Sounds a LOT like this problem:

http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/28635-reduced-engine-power-limted-11mph-2.html

You need to invest in a code reader/clearer

[txd0mask]

Hey,

I had a similiar problem - came back from vacation, car battery died. Did a jump start - after car would randomly shake while revs would go up and down and suddenly it would die. Went on for a couple of weeks - i tried everything, disconnecting the battery etc... this is what I did.

1. Changed Battery (Battery was low and after change, car still sputtered and died)
2. Fuel Pump (Fuel pump was running lean --> after car still sputtered and died)
3. Changed Mass Air Flow Sensor - now car drives like a dream.

It probably is the mass air flow sensor. Buy a bosch one or buy a cheap on ebay - whatever, it's probably the problem.

Had a similiar problem with another car years ago --> MAF's are evil.

[Gorthaur]

Hi guys.

Two hours ago I went to pick the car up in order to put some juice in the tank.

I started it and the problem was still there. I managed to drive it to the petrol station but on my way I decided to go through some gears and found that in first gear I could do 20 kph, 30 in second, 40 in third and so on. So I decided to upshift and downshift a few times and something better seemed to happen but then... I reached the station.

I put 20 liters in the tank, then did the 1-minute procedure with the key, started the car and...

...BANG! White smoke and oil all over the place!!!

Just kidding!!! I started it and she was perfectly fine! I drove it for half an hour, then came back home. Turned it off, waited for a few minutes and then started it again. Everything ok.

Tomorrow I'm going to check her again but for the moment I'm very, very pleased!

What do you reckon? Fuel level too low? Bad fuel? Who knows... But, as far as the problem doesn't appear again... who cares!!!

I'll keep you updated, thanks again for your help!

[Heiko]

Wow i would not have thought that fuel could keep the engine from reving past a certain RPM unless something was restricting the flow maybe.... (fuel level low - is the gauge working correctly???) Did you drain anything out of the tank? (Did it smell strange or looks strange?)
Anyhow glad its working...

[Gorthaur]

Originally Posted by Heiko

Wow i would not have thought that fuel could keep the engine from reving past a certain RPM unless something was restricting the flow maybe.... (fuel level low - is the gauge working correctly???) Did you drain anything out of the tank? (Did it smell strange or looks strange?)
Anyhow glad its working...

Hi Heiko. Did not drain anything before refuelling. Gauge has always worked fine in the past.

Anyway, I've read on W. D.'S 101 projects that for some electric related jobs he suggests to have at least half a tank of fuel (if not more) in order to prevent the car from "misbehaving" after the battery is reconnected. I haven't got the book here with me so I cannot be very precise but I'm sure everybody here has got it and can easily check it.

[Meir]

Good news man.
You see. We all learned a new lesson.
Another day at the 986 college (or kindergarten. You choose )

[Gorthaur]

Hey guys, sorry for posing this question in this topic but I think we should consider what I came through after disconnecting the battery (even though we actually don't know whether the problem was related to bad fuel or the cluster job).

I'm going to replace the window regulator in the next weeks. Am I supposed to disconnect the battery (since I'll have to disconnect the airbag as well)? Can I do the whole job without touching the battery?

As far as I know, I should not turn ignition on with the airbag disconnected in order to prevent the correspondent light to come on on the cluster, is this right?

Thanks for your help, cheers.

G.

[Meir]

Originally Posted by Gorthaur

Hey guys, sorry for posing this question in this topic but I think we should consider what I came through after disconnecting the battery (even though we actually don't know whether the problem was related to bad fuel or the cluster job).

I'm going to replace the window regulator in the next weeks. Am I supposed to disconnect the battery (since I'll have to disconnect the airbag as well)? Can I do the whole job without touching the battery?

As far as I know, I should not turn ignition on with the airbag disconnected in order to prevent the correspondent light to come on on the cluster, is this right?

Thanks for your help, cheers.

G.

i disconnect the battery almost every time i work on the car. never had issues.
if disconnecting the airbag (i.e. steering wheel, door panels, seats), wait at least 15 minutes between battery disconnect, to airbag disconnect.
the reason for that is, the airbag system includes capacitors that keep the system alive, even if the battery is damaged (like in an accident for example).
just make sure when you disconnect the battery, that the ignition is off. in fact, better if you keep the key in your pocket this time
in some cases, when the battery was disconnected for a long time, the RPM in idle are not stable at firs star up.
you need to drive the car for a wail, so the ECU and the MAF sensor can synchronize.

[Heiko]

It shouldnt do anything not disconnecting it... BUT its one of those 'play it safe' guidelines as 9 times out of 10 everything will go ok and that 10th time something will go wrong and the darn thing deploys - I would disconnect the battery (just undo the negative and fold it aside)