While not as experienced as the guy's providing you suggestions.
From reading all the different problems members have encountered on this forum, the number one item that resolves a lot of issues is the MAF.
While also noticing a very low battery will cause some very erratic behavior. If voltage levels are low, sensors can do some strange things.

Reading your post:
The problem started after you disconnected the battery to replaced the dash bulb. I can only assume that the battery was disconnected quite a long time while removing and reinstalling the dash.
My guess is the ECU is having to re-learn all the sensor readings all over again.
You also had the GPS installed for your insurance. (Was this installed after the bulb replacement) (Battery disconnect again?)
You state the GPS was installed on the positive side of your battery, is it drawing from the battery all the time.
(How old is your battery?)

Also reading you stated that after the Indy checked for codes, the car warmed up for half an hour and ran fine.
You have no codes.
I would stop with the 1 minute procedures. Let the car reach operating temperature and re-learn the air/ fuel mixture readings.
Possibly get a volt meter and check the battery voltage after it sits overnight.

My suggestion is to let the car run and warm up, let it re-learn.
Once warm, if it's running fine, take it for a a drive close by and don't baby it.

My 2 cents..
T

Hi Tony and thank you for joining. The battery has been disconnected for 20 hours.

GPS installed in April 2012 after battery replacement.

My battery is 6 months old and yes, the GPS is always transmitting.

Yes. But the same didn't happen on the next day.

Overnight the battery is always connected to the smart charger.

Thank you again, I will surely try.

Just had a similiar forum discussion on this the other day... the switch at the back of the ignition is a common failing item (although I cant see that keeping your car from reving up or shaking)... The switch is a cheap item you can find at Volkswagen/Audi dealer and also easy to change (VW Part number 4A0905849B) :-) If this little unit fails, it seems to cause all sorts of strange issues including being able to spin the key 360 degrees, steering wheel not unlocking etc....
Regarding the battery... once your car is running the alternator should supply all the power required for the engine...

"My suggestion is to let the car run and warm up, let it re-learn.
Once warm, if it's running fine, take it for a a drive close by and don't baby it.
My 2 cents..
T"

Sorry Tony I have to disagree - If in fact he has a bad ign coil and something is misfiring I would highly advise not to rev the engine high as it could do potential damage. So even if its warm i would baby it and not push it... if he even gets it that far.

May be a bad ground somewhere…possibly that "GPS device" that is not connected to the rest of the car's grounding system, huh? With the ground pulled, you should NOT STILL BE PULLING AMPS from your battery.

My factory stereo experienced similar problems when I replaced the HU and tried to use factory wiring, and original wiring was taken out in favor of wiring I KNEW WAS GROUNDED PROPERLY.

A dead battery or corroded battery posts, faulty ground circuitry, or a MAF about to croak ALL would be producing similar "spotty" problems. Your problem seems intermittent - it does NOT happen ALL the time. The guys have provided AWESOME and CORRECT troubleshooting information, given the responses you have provided.

It may be a job for an experienced mechanic to trace back some of your wires, replace the MAF, replace a faulty battery, clean posts or check the wiring. Batteries DO fail, even new ones. Insurance companies GPSs are made for the masses…how long has that thing been on there?

Your problems, as described, DO NOT seem to 'go by the book' of troubleshooting….unless some bit of information eludes us!

LOOK HARDER you will find a bad ground, visually check the MAF - clean it with MAF cleaner, clean the battery terminals (even IF you have a new battery there can still be crud on the posts-check it).

Your answer lies within. If not, there is no shame in going to the Indy (would not trust the dealer) and have him try 'specific' items, as described.

Good Luck!

Heiko:
You know more about these car's than I do.
I am by no means an expert.

I just look at the symptoms then try to analyze cause and effect.
In this case the cause was when the battery was disconnected for a long period of time.
The Indy check the codes and no codes were found.
Just trying to use some deductive reasoning for the side effects described.

You may be on to something with the ignition switch given his comment about the 0 to 1 to 2 procedure many times as well.

I just find it hard to believe the car was fine until the battery was disconnected for an extended time and now all these components may be at fault.

When I saw his comment about letting the car reach operating temperature it seem to run fine. It sounded to me like the ECU had time to learn the settings after being disconnected so long.

I'll shut up now.

Gorthaur:
Good luck with your diagnoses

T

Homeboy... thank you!

Maybe there's something more. When I was about to reconnect the negative cable, I incidentally dropped the hexagonal nut which allows the end of the cable to embrace the battery pole. I tried to find it but I didn't make it, so I used another hexagonal nut which seemed to fit perfectly even though it had a different outer size. Perhaps the problem lies there, and since I went to the dep to buy the nut of the right size, this evening I'll be able to throw it in while reconnecting the battery. I will record a video as well and hopefully I'll show it to you.

Will be interested in seeing if this helps. I know Porsche has a "safe drive mode" where the engine will drop cylinders when the CPU detects an engine problem and gives you just enough engine to return home. The symptoms you are describing are identical to the conditions my 928 S4 would go through. No codes were thrown, but if I remember correctly it ended up being a coil related issue. On the 928 you would go from 8 cylinders to 6... I have not found if the Boxster has the same function going from 6 cylinders to 4?

The GPS device is not connected to the rest of the car's grounding system, as far as I know. Later I will post some pics.

Thanks!

At 1500 RPM I'm not so sure I would be able to go anywhere, even a small ramp would be too much for the poor power available. :( There's clearly something wrong!

Hey T, I'm sure Heiko didn't mean to sound rude (otherwise he would not have been as nice and helpful as he has) so please stay with us, any suggestion will be highly appreciated!

Tony... If I did sound rude my appologies...did not mean to come out that way. There are too many unknown variables here to properly diagnose this one quickly... My gutt reaction was 'protect the motor' so I wouldnt run it hard until this is found. Anyhow sorry if that came out wrong...

Heiko

It's all good, I didn't take it that way.
I respect Heiko. I hope you can figure out your problem.

@Heiko,
Looks like you need to lend @Gorthaur your mechanic in a trunk! Was that you in there?

The guy looked too happy to be a mechanic! The picture would have been different AFTER the repairs were complete I'm sure. Just ribbin ya! It was a good post!

LMAO - Yes that was me in the trunk :) that was the happy smile after getting that oil leakin beast outta there. We got it all torn appart, just waiting for some parts and then she's going back together. Dont worry you'll see some finished photo's when done :-)

You crack me up! Funny sense of humor! :D

That pic should be your Moniker….it was hilarious! A Mechanic in the Frunk is what these cars should come with!

this tread is becoming very interesting.
i have one question.
did the problem started right away after messing with the cluster? or couple of days later? (just want to be sure)

On the very next restart, after many hours without battery.

On sunday 3 PM I disconnected the battery and did the job, on monday 10 AM I reconnected it and on tuesday 13 AM, I started it for the first time.

OK. this is my 2 cents.
after 20 years of installing every available aftermarket electronic equipment in cars (4 years of them as the official installation shop of Porsche Israel), i can tell you one thing.
if you worked on something (in your case the cluster) that where the problem is.
problems usually don't happen by themselves. the chance that a MAF/coil will blow at the same time you were working on something ells, is close to zero.
car was working fine before taking the cluster out. right?
remove the cluster, check the connectors and wires. these connectors are very sensitive and tend to break or loos a pin (ask me how i know).
also take Homeboy advice, and check the ground points behind the cluster. make sure they are tight and none of the wires is broken. some of them are very thin, and can break easily when working in that area.
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1352866175.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1352866196.jpg

whit that said, it can also be that you are very very unlucky, to have somethig ells go bad when working on unrelated part of the car.
i truly daubed it.

taking the cluster connector apart, is described hear in figure 6:

Pelican Technical Article: Boxster On Board Computer (OBC) Upgrade / Boxster Turn Signal Switch Replacement - 986 Boxster (1997-04) -

good luck.