Needing New Brakes at 4mm?
 

I just took my car in for an oil change at the dealership. I have 25K Miles and the dealer says I have 4mm of brake lining left on all 4 wheels. He said I better replace the brakes soon. The dealer quoted me $3K for all the brakes, I think at that price its time to put in some elbow grease and do it myself.

1. How much lining does the fresh pad have?
2. I think 4mm is still a lot left? Am I wrong?
3. I drive like a grandma and I never really track my car, is 25K miles too early?

Find a new dealer. $3k to repair brake pads should be a hangable offence. I would estimate new pads have about 8mm or so in them.

1. New pads
standard - 11mm Frt, 11mm Rear
............S - 12mm Frt, 10.5mm Rear

2. Wear Limit - 2mm pads only
.................... - 2.5mm pads & wear indicator

3. Brake wear is only function of how much use they receive and the quality of the pads, not mileage.

If your rotors are still good, then just changing the pads is a very easy do-it-yourself project. It will be more work jacking up the car and taking off the wheels, than changing the pads out. You will need some way to measure the rotors to be sure they are not undersize in thickness.
If you change the pads before the wear indicators are activated, you will avoid having to buy and replace them.

I was just coming in the house to change my estimate! I looked at my front pads and could tell there was a good 10mm on them.

I'd say what you want to do is go out and measure your remaining pad depth (given that the dealer is charging insane prices, who knows if they lie as well) and if you do have only 4mm left, buy new pads online - you'll have plenty of change from $500 even if you buy Porsche pads.

If the car has only 25k on it, the rotors should have plenty of thickness left (but plan on replacing rotors every two pad changes). Don't worry, changing rotors isn't hard or expensive either.

3k?! 3k!? :barf:
http://qkme.me/3rci41
Those brake pads better be made out of solid gold!

With only 25k miles, you only need pads and optionally a brake flush. Rotors should have plenty of life left. If you are curious, a full set of OEM quality brakes can be had for roughly $111. (Mintex) If you are wanting to go generic you could even get them for $70!

New brake pads and a flush can easily be done for $135. You'll just need pads, and brake fluid. If you want, you can buy a power bleeder for $40 to add on.

Slide through NY, I'll do it for $2,500 and I'll change the fluid too! This reminds me of my friends mom (78) who paid $200 for an oil change because the facility convinced her it is a more difficult job on a Cayman.

Beck Arnley 082-1545 front pads for a base 986 are less than $27 including shipping from Amazon.

Has anyone tried these?

A novice home mechanic can change all 4 corners with new pads in about an 60 to 90 minutes, its probably the easiest job you could do on a Boxster.

Tools needed: Porsche Jack and lug nut wrench located in your spare tire area, Plus some needle nose pliers to remove the sensors and 1 retaining pin.


Replacing with OEM Pads from Pelican would cost under $400 plus 1 hour or less for a skilled mechanic at $100/hr, so I figure the price is inflated by $2500 or more.

Another dealer that overcharges, has no respect for customers and takes us for fools.

We need a Name/location of that place to add to the :barf: list.

OMG - 3K!!!! That's highway robbery...
I think if you look in the dictionary under the word STEALERSHIPS you will find that dealers name listed.... that's insane!!!

Is it common to have all 4 wheels wear at the same rate? Mid engined or not, this sounds fishy as does the rest of this dealer's story... Every other car I've owned has typically gone through 2 sets of pads up front for every set of rears. Unless your beating the hell out of it or tracking it regularly, rear pads should last way more than 25K. Even fronts ought to do better than that on a car that is used reasonably with the occasional spirited run down a back road...

I was going through the maintenance receipts from the previous owner and found that things seem to been replaced in pairs.
I also was curious as to why just replace the front brakes only, then only purchase two front tires.
I understand that the front brakes may wear faster than the rear since the majority of the stopping power is in the front.
I just ordered two rear tires since they wasn't replaced with the fronts...
When I had the car in for the IMS retro, they mentioned the rear pads need to be replace soon. After removing then, they were close to reaching the brake pad sensors, where as the front were replaced prior to my purchase..

Front tire replacement may have been due to poor wheel alignment on front versus rear that warranted replacing and realigning..

Yeah. I thought it was a joke until I saw the bill. I came in for their oil special and they came out with a list of things to change. I knew about the tire (it's summer in california, don't need much tread), but the brakes surprised me.

This is Stevens Creek Porsche in Santa Clara, CA.



http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1350326619.jpg

I can't trust a dealership that can't spell balance or recommend correctly.

Holy hell I would be out of there SO fast.

if i was you, i would go and change the oil again, myself.
who knows what they put in there.
hope its not canola :eek:
i wouldn't trust this guys to add washer fluid to my car.

They charge $199 extra for the use of spell-check service.

<a href="http://imgur.com/wnx5A"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/wnx5A.jpg" alt="" title="Hosted by imgur.com" /></a>

Nice profit margins. I'm sure their stockholders are proud. :eek:

According to the quote list, they would only top off with water, not add washer fluid. They would probably want another $100 for real washer fluid.

I don't know what they charge but you might want to try Michael Stead Porsche up in Walnut Creek if you want to stick with a dealer. Tell em I sent you. That said I might do my own front brakes myself here soon. Unlike your dealer saying to change early at 4mm I suspect they will tell you to wait until you hit the limit of 2.5mm or so when the sensor lights activate to save you money. a full pad should be around 10mm.

Btw does anyone have any pictures or info on how to properly measure the rotors? I have a digital caliper/micrometer. I assume the wheels have to come off for this? I know I will need brakes but I am concerned if I DIY then I won't know if rotors are bad...

In the San Jose area, try High Performance Autohouse in Redwood City (650364-6234). I used to go to him when I lived in Palo Alto, Rich is a real standup guy who was always really honest with me.

In Walnut Creek where I now live, I use Pacific Power Motorsports, which is alway chock full of racing Porsches and the like, and the quotes Eric has given me for involved repairs has always seemed reasonable.

As an FYI if you try PPM I'd double check quotes from Stead. I've contacted PPM a few times for estimated prices and every time the dealer has been lower priced...needless to say I haven't gone to PPM yet... Just saying...