Pressure Plate Removal Question?
 

Please remind me, why won't the pressure plate come off (easily) once all 6 bolts have been removed?

TIA

The pressure plate can be really hard to remove sometimes, especially if the car has never had clutch work done. First, spray the area liberally where the bolts were with a penetrating oil (I find pb blaster works best), let set 15 minutes or more. My pressure plate was actually rusted on! Get a flat headed screwdriver, wedge it between the pressure plate and clutch disc and use force to pry it. Start first from the bottom of the plate, then on the top, going on the sides last. Be careful not to scratch the flywheel while doing so, unless you are replacing the flywheel. I had to open up my engine compartment and get a step ladder to pry the plate off from above.

OK, got it off. :)
Kenny was right, a little PB Blaster does help. But it's really helpful to pry where 3 locating dowel pin are. With my not so good eyesight, I wasn't seeing those at first. Just apply a tiny bit of penetrating oil to those pins and you should be good.

Now, for my next question:
The flywheel surface is very smooth; it passes the twist test; there seems to be no obvious problems; however, the friction surface is discolored. Is this normal, or does it warrant replacement?

If difficult to answer without visual aid, I'll post pictures later on today.

Regards

Hello again seventythree,

It would be unusual for the flywheel surface not to be discolored! I have seen flywheels that have less than 3,000 miles on them with bluish-purple-amber streaks on them. I cleaned off my flywheel some ultra fine sandpaper and sprayed it down with brake parts cleaner. The discoloration does not come off, and is normal. Technically if it passes the twist test then it should be fine. I reused my flywheel when I did my clutch and had no problems.

Hit the flywheel with a rotary polisher/sander with 60 or 80 grit sandpaper.

Ok, after spending some time cleaning up the DMF, it turns out that I was partially wrong on the twist test. :(

The flywheel rotates less than 15mm in either direction, 13mm to be exact, before it meets much greater springy resistance. However, once let go, it doesn't return to that middle neutral position. How big of a deal is this?

Sure don't want to spend another $750 :eek: on a new flywheel unless it's really needed.

If you have high miles and have been very aggressive on starts, I would recommend changing the flywheel. Usually a flywheel will have high and low spots and when you install a new disk and pressure plate you may end up with a chatter effect on starts. link for lower pricing.


http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/WC/134-01089313.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_ content=YN&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&utm_ term=2000-2007+Porsche+Boxster+Flywheel+LUK+W0133-1647688+00-07+Porsche+Flywheel+2004+2001&fp=pp&gbm=a&gclid=CO mC9qq807ICFQc4nAodbEAARA

+1
When I had my clutch replaced that is exactly what the shop did..

How soon do you want to be taking out the transmission again? 10K miles, 20K miles?
You want the flywheel to last at least as long as the clutch, so if in doubt swap it out.