Brake bleeding done with 1 L of fluid
 

I just finished bleeding the brake AND the clutch. :cheers:
However, I ended up using only 1 liter of ATE Blue. :confused:
I've been told and read that it take almost 3 liters so I am a bit confused.

To summarize what I did,

1. Even though my 2001 base has PSM, I did not bother to activate the valves in the hydraulic unit.

2. I used the Motive Products Power Bleeder. However, rather than pouring the brake fluid into its Power Bleeder, I used the Power Bleeder just to create the pressure and kept on refilling the car's reservoir.

3. I did a) the passenger rear, b) the driver rear, c) the passenger front, d) the driver front then e) the clutch.

4. The clutch was pressed in using a 2x4 but this only evacuated a small amount of fluid from the clutch valve. I could see that the fluid was coming out but the rate was VERY slow. Since I only had a boxed 9mm, I could not open the valve more. I ended up pumping the clutch and that moved the fluid quickly.

5. I still had some fluid left in the can so I bled the both rears.

Now my question is, how did I use only 1 liter?
The old fluid was not blue so it was easy to see the color of exiting fluid and I can confirm that they were BLUE.
I did skip the part where I "activate the valves in the hydraulic unit." Would this have required TWO additional liters?

I welcome any and all comments from the DIY deities. :)

1L is all it takes. Just be sure to alternate between blue and gold fluid and you can never go wrong. Good work.

Thanks San Rensho.
At least I am not alone.

...I had bottles of fluid during my rebuild in anticipation of the amount I would use. I now have bottles of fluid on my shelf for the next flush on my other rides! You are not alone on this one!

From where do I bleed the clutch? That's a new one for me...

The slave on the transmission. You will need skinny arms and a bit of patience.

Hello Randall.

Here is one of the link I used.
Pelican Technical Article: Boxster Clutch Hydraulics Overhaul (Boxster Master Cylinder & Boxster Slave Cylinder Replacement) - 986 / 987

Don't expect to be able to see the figure 4. I suppose you might be able to see it like in the picture if you removed a bunch of stuff including the bumper. However, I was on my back between the center line of the car and the driver side rear wheel so my POV was a bit different.

Rest assured that the valve is opening/pointing towards the driver side rear tire and it is appx. in line with the center of the rear wheels, (a bit rear?), and high up.
The valve is covered with a plastic cover that comes fully off, (not like the valve covers for the braks), so be careful.

Let me know if you have trouble finding it. I will post some pictures.

If you take off the driver rearwheel, you can access the bleed screw by sitting down right in front of the hub and reaching back to the slave cylinder. Cramped, but doable.

Keep in mind that the clutch pulls from a completely different nozzle on the fluid reservoir so it will have no effect on brake performance. It is also under negligible temperature and pressure compared to the brake system. If your clutch is working perfectly then there is probably no reason to bleed the clutch until you need to replace the slave cylinder.

Why wait for a failure - the fluid is hygroscopic and so attracts moisture. While this is not a serious thing in a clutch hydraulic system, if neglected the moisture will attack and rust out the slave cylinder piston and sleeve as you say.....
Changing the fluid every 2 years will save the slave cylinder & you will get many years of reliable operation.

All absolutely true and good advice. Just didn't want people to think it was an essential part of a complete brake bleed. In my race car I completely change the fluid every second race, the clutch however, every year at best.