emergency rear trunk release
 

Just installed "emergency rip cord" for rear trunk release. Took about 25 minutes. Now no loss of sleep.

Can you slide some pics and directions into the thread? I now need to join this club, miss the cabled releases already.

As Ghosty said....
I've installed (re-routed so I can reach it without removing the wheel) the front boot (frunk) release cable but not the rear - I havn't been able to find it......

Just remove the plastic cover from the latch, then pull back the the fabrics to expose the exisiting cable (driver side) I ran a new wire along the original cable with loose wire ties (so wire will move) from the latch around the corner of the tail light and up and straight to the foam rubber patch on the back "firewall". Ran the wire just overtop of the foam into the shock tower area. On that end of the wire I looped the wire thru a piece of gas line hose to form a handle. With top 1/2 down I can now reach in near shock tower and grab and pull to open rear trunk. This is for emergency only just like the front hood. I read the horrible post on rear trunk latch broken. OUCH !!! I can sleep now that my wife knows where both emergency pulls are.

My rear trunk didn't open, right after coming home from grocery shopping. You should have heard my wife coursing out the car.

I dreamed up an alternative option, I'm thinking of running a set of jump wires to (points unknown yet) direct from the battery and enclosed in the proper electrical case. If you get locked out you hook a charger to said wires, theory being even a dud battery can be rejuventaed to the point of opening a solenoid latch.

Isn't this what the post in the fuse box is for some what?

Didn't know about it have not got that far in the manual, mine was cabled. If you can jump it at the fuse box that's fine with me.

My rear trunk release cable broke at the latch and I couldn't find find the pull release. After removing the bumper, you can easily find the pull cable. You can also get you hand inside a vent just under the left taillight. I used a blue zip tie to extend the pull cable to make it easier to get in the future. I also used about $2 in local hardware store parts to refasten the cable end. easier and cheaper than a replacement cable. Here are some pics.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1330552500.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1330552513.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1330552525.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1330552532.jpg

Ghost, Please try to stay away from "jumper wires " to the battery / fuse box. Just a simple "rip cord" is all you need. No voltage/amps = no fire from shorted wires. How about those groceries in the trunk ???? at 98 degrees ??? Get them OUT quick !!! Your wife does not have time for you to get home to "jump" the car. Good luck. You read what happened to Armando ? OUCH !!!

What I plan is this, always keep the battery maintained and during winter layup have both bonnets released for safety...

As "Danger" would say " 2 rip cords are better than none" and a "Rolex" is not battery powered. If you need help just give me a pm and I will talk you thru it. Good luck, Max

though doa battery is an issue... the more common problem w/ rear trunk, as lilredpo notes, is a frayed cable from actuator to latch. having a secondary pull cable easily accessible is a very good idea...

It's easier to inspect the cable preemptively maybe twice a year.

Berg, Thanks for the "DOA" battery notation. I was going to mention that but did not want to confuse anyone. Good Call !!!! A "DOA" battery will screw you up every time. Throw your jumper cables in the toilet. Thanks !!!!