02-07-2012, 01:51 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: mass
Posts: 731
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cat delete pipe broken bolt
so today i started to install my top speed delete pipes . everything is good except a broken bolt. it is on top of the triangle flange where there is a welded nut. clean break on that welded on nut , any suggestions on how to deal with this? the nut looks like it needs to go . what would be the best way to remove it?
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02-07-2012, 02:29 PM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 9
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Same thing happened to me. I cut the nut off with my Dremel tool and used a new nut and bolt.
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02-07-2012, 03:14 PM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: mass
Posts: 731
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that is exactly what i was thinking. did you have any trouble getting at it with the dremel ?
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02-07-2012, 03:53 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 9
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I pulled the rear wheel off on the side that broke and was able to get my arm through to cut it. It took about 15 minutes including stopping a few times to check that I wasn't cutting the flange.
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02-07-2012, 04:25 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: mass
Posts: 731
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i'm not looking forward to it , i will give it a shot tomorrow morning .
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02-08-2012, 01:26 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Queensland, Australia
Posts: 1,522
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jaca,
Keep us posted as to how the pipes work out on the road for you after the install - I'm planning on fitting mine next week after I have the O2 sensor bungs welded in.
__________________
2001 Boxster S (triple black). Sleeping easier with LN Engineering/Flat 6 IMS upgrade, low temp thermostat & underspeed pulley.
2001 MV Agusta F4.
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02-08-2012, 02:08 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: mass
Posts: 731
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I got the welded nuts off . it took a little while for the cheap harbor freight rotary tool to cut through them. i then took a file and cleaned up the area . i also put new cv boots on both axles today. it was nice to have the room with the cat pipes out of the way. what a messy job the cv boots are , i am glad they are done. i will be installing the delete pipes in the a.m. , can't wait to here them with my charlie chan exhaust and BMC air filter.
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02-08-2012, 05:37 PM
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#8
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1999 base
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 1,617
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jacabean
I got the welded nuts off . it took a little while for the cheap harbor freight rotary tool to cut through them. i then took a file and cleaned up the area . i also put new cv boots on both axles today. it was nice to have the room with the cat pipes out of the way. what a messy job the cv boots are , i am glad they are done. i will be installing the delete pipes in the a.m. , can't wait to here them with my charlie chan exhaust and BMC air filter.
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I'm going to do the same job this weekend. Both test pipe and cv joints.
My plan is to remove the axels from the car and work them on the bench.
Question for steve: why do you need to weld Bungs for the O2 sensors? On 00-04 boxsters all 4 sensors are mounted on the primary cat (one piece with the exhaust manifold. See page 26-6 and 26-8 on the Bentley book )
Am I missing something?
Last edited by Meir; 02-08-2012 at 06:25 PM.
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02-09-2012, 12:19 AM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Queensland, Australia
Posts: 1,522
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Meir..
I'm in Australia - we have ROW specs where only one set of cats and O2 sensors are fitted, both mounted in the pipes just prior to the muffler. The exhaust manifold is just that - a manifold without cats / O2 sensors similar to US 1997-99 2,5 models .....
Che's cat delete pipes for 1999 - 2004 S models don't come with O2 bungs in the pipes for me to fit the sensors, so I have to weld them in.
Perhaps I should have purschased the Che's 2.5 pipes which have to bungs already installed......
__________________
2001 Boxster S (triple black). Sleeping easier with LN Engineering/Flat 6 IMS upgrade, low temp thermostat & underspeed pulley.
2001 MV Agusta F4.
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02-09-2012, 01:45 AM
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#10
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Ex Esso kid
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 1,605
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If you are talking about the triangular flange where the header meets the exhaust, those are more like splined, press fit, hardened studs. They can be removed by using hardened titanium twist drills. Work by progressing from smaller sizes up till you reach just inside the stud diameter, then tap out with small drift.
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02-09-2012, 04:09 AM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: mass
Posts: 731
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the bottom 2 are studs but the top of the triangle has a welded nut. i think they did this on the 03 , 04 cars. as for taking the axles out , it would make the job a lot easier and less messy . i would have taken the axles off if i was going to replace the wheel bearings . pumping myself with coffee to build up some steam to finish the job . also gonna change the plugs and tubes while i am already in there .
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02-09-2012, 04:16 AM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: mass
Posts: 731
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a little trick that helped me out . the cv boots can be tough to get on. i heated them with a hair dryer , they went on a lot easier warmed up. then again it is not exactly warm hear in massachusetts in my unheated garage.
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02-09-2012, 06:20 AM
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#13
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1999 base
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 1,617
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jacabean
a little trick that helped me out . the cv boots can be tough to get on. i heated them with a hair dryer , they went on a lot easier warmed up. then again it is not exactly warm hear in massachusetts in my unheated garage.
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thanks for the tip jacabean. although i dont expect to have that problem here in FL.
and Steve, good luck with your project mate.
wasn't aware of the US regulations. :chicken: (couldn't find a Kangaroo for you)
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