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-   -   Freakin out even more... oil everywhere! (http://986forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33283)

stateofidleness 01-16-2012 06:28 PM

and it can leak oil from there? is there actually oil in that tube during operation or is it "residual"? seemed like it leaked a puddle, then when i started the car again, i got another little puddle after parking it again.

note: i haven't had a chance to clean anything or inspect anything yet..

stateofidleness 01-22-2012 10:45 AM

Gents,
In this middle of this large project and ready to tackle the oil issue. I've cleaned up the underbody, replaced water pump, replaced thermostat, and replaced engine mount.

I'm not real sure how to replace the oil filler tube. The one I ordered is the one on top that is visible on top of the engine. Will running the car stationary cause it to leak oil as well or do I have to go drive it to see if it still leaks before replacing?

Will I have to do anything with the coolant tank/coolant to do this replacement? Someone mentioned it was just a clamp that could be loose. Where would I find this clamp? I haven't put the drained coolant back in yet, but wanted to make sure I wouldn't have to redrain it to do the oil tube.

Thanks guys!

Paul 01-22-2012 11:01 AM

This should help:

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d6...t/P7080610.jpg

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d6...t/P7080641.jpg

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d6...t/P7080647.jpg

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d6...t/P7090675.jpg

Ghostrider 310 01-22-2012 11:03 AM

The cooling system and the oil tube should have zero nexus, two separate systems, go ahead and fill the cooling system. As for checking the leak, if a broken mount allowing the engine to torque or twist is what fractured the oil tube you might not see the event repeated. If you have already ordered the part, I would research it's replacement, look at the part itself when it arrives for clues as well. Then execute the repair, fill all fluids and check it, otherwise you might re-soil the area you just cleaned with a still leaking yet to be replaced tube, hope that helps good luck.

stateofidleness 01-22-2012 11:16 AM

ah, those pictures do help. the more i look at it though, the more i think that the oil is coming from somewhere else. the tube looks rather clean. the oil cooler is clean.

is the skid plate on the bottom of the car removable without any problems? does it support anything or keep alignment in spec? i'd like to remove it to get better visibility but didn't want to mess up an alignment or have something fall on me.

anything else i should check?

dumb question (sans manual): how do i check the transmission fluid level? (Tiptronic)

WhipE350 01-22-2012 11:19 AM

Here is a closeup of the tube I replaced and it sounds like you got the part for. I added another circle for where the tube attaches to the filler. I'm not on expert on how much oil is in the tube while the engine is moving but it must spray up there to have leaked at both joints on mine. There would not be oil in there while the car is not running.

If the leak came from the joint on top of the engine it should be obvious...just look for a puddle on the engine under the joint or feel for oil on the bottom side of the joint clamp. If your leak came from this joint it should be obvious considering how much oil you say was on the ground, to create that much spilling oil the engine would be a mess under this join.

To see if the leak is coming from where the tube attaches to the filler you'll be able to see it with a flashlight looking up from under the car, there are a lot of things in the way but you'll find it. You could also reach under from the top and see if your hand is covered with fresh oil.

Based on the things you just replaced you'll be able to replace this tube too. It is not fun but with right tools can be done. Obviously the end that connects to the filler is the hardest. Look at it closely from underside so you have an idea what to feel for when you reach in there to open the clamp, you'll need something that can hold the clamp open while you work it loose. You might need a mirror to see well from the top. I used regular hose clamps when I put my new one back in. I had the transmission out while doing mine so I could do it from the underside a little more easily. Not going to lie to you, this was not fun. Let's see if others have some good ideas, my way might have just been beginner bad luck.

As for what the pipe does from the middle of the engine on I'm not sure. You could remove the air intakes and look.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1327263566.jpg

stateofidleness 01-22-2012 11:21 AM

running out to shop to recheck all joints! brb

WhipE350 01-22-2012 11:24 AM

Paul - Great pics...that first pic is perfect.

Paul 01-22-2012 11:38 AM

The pipe on the motor has a red plug in this picture, it does almost a right angle into the top of the block.

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d6...t/P7090670.jpg

Ghostrider 310 01-22-2012 12:29 PM

Maybe a dumb question here but if you still are not sure if it's oil or tranny have you tried looking at the stick level for clues?

stateofidleness 01-22-2012 01:02 PM

dumber question: how do i check the transmission fluid level??

i just let it ran and revved it a few times.. as soon as I revved it (while still on ramps), the puddle came back... about 5 inches around.. then it stops leaking (not a continuous flow)

what else can I check?? it's starting to look more and more like a RMS thing, but that might mean a tow...

there is no oil above the skild plate and it is still clean/dry. The oil drip is right at the lowest point of the tranny by that steel cable that connects the engine and tranny together...

gettin' scared guys... how can I further diagnose a RMS? seems like that would leak without me revving no?

ps: i checked the manual and it doesn't tell me how to check transmission fluid level

The Radium King 01-22-2012 01:09 PM

remove the transmission fill bolt and stick your finger in - you should be able to feel the fluid. pelican is your freind here:

Pelican Technical Article: Boxster Differential / Manual Boxster Transmission Fluid Change - 986 / 987

perhaps info here also:

http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/33349-leak-around-transmission-linkage.html

crumbum 01-22-2012 01:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stateofidleness (Post 275256)
dumber question: how do i check the transmission fluid level??

i just let it ran and revved it a few times.. as soon as I revved it (while still on ramps), the puddle came back... about 5 inches around.. then it stops leaking (not a continuous flow)

what else can I check?? it's starting to look more and more like a RMS thing, but that might mean a tow...

there is no oil above the skild plate and it is still clean/dry. The oil drip is right at the lowest point of the tranny by that steel cable that connects the engine and tranny together...

gettin' scared guys... how can I further diagnose a RMS? seems like that would leak without me revving no?

ps: i checked the manual and it doesn't tell me how to check transmission fluid level

There are a number of technical articles on the Pelican Parts site that you might find useful.Click here

The link to checking and changing the transmission fluid can be found here.

I often try to review sequence of events to help troubleshoot a problem. If I understand you correctly you found:
1) a large trail of oil and a huge puddle under the car.
2) no drop in engine oil when looking at the dipstick.
3) no drips while the car is just sitting.
4) as soon as you started the car, another huge puddle.

Questions I would try to answer are:
1) Is there a drop in engine oil now? If not, I would DEFINITELY check transmission fluid level.
2) Do you see any obvious damage like a crack in the transmission or a hole? Have you put the car up on jack stands to have a look? (dont crawl under it with just a jack).
3) Have you looked under the car while it is running to see where the leak might be coming from?

I would not run it again unless you have made sure there is enough engine oil and transmission fluid that would ensure that you dont fry the engine or transmission.

But that is just me.

stateofidleness 01-22-2012 01:34 PM

car is up on ramps the whole time. i did not see a leak with the car idling, it only started to leak when i revved the engine. I am unable to identify where it's coming from while the car is running and underneath it.

should i have it towed?

ubii 01-22-2012 01:40 PM

stateofidleness,

I had something similar happen to me last month, in the drive through of Pizza Hut. In a matter of a few minutes, I managed to lose over half of the oil from my engine. When I went to pull up to the window, after the car in front of me left, I heard a loud ticking sound and that was when I noticed my oil light flashing. I pulled the car around to the back, parked it, and got out only to discover a 6 inch wide trail of oil leading all the way through the parking lot and out to the intersection. After verifying the obvious culprits, I had the car towed back to my house. At first, I thought that I blew a seal on the oil cooler, as it appeared that oil had sprayed from the that area down the driver side of the engine. But, once I got it up on jack stands and cleaned up a bit, I discovered that lower camshaft seal on the rear driver side of the engine was missing. There are a total of six of these seals, 3 on each side, with 1 front, 2 rear on the driver side and 2 front, 1 rear on the passenger side. Since your leak appears to be located more towards the center, it probably is something else, but it doesn't hurt to at least verify that these seals are not leaking or missing. Below, is a photo of the missing camshaft seal.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1327271792.jpg

Paul 01-22-2012 02:01 PM

Ubii, how's your AOS? These seals can be popped by excessive crankcase pressure.

WhipE350 01-22-2012 02:13 PM

Oil and transmission fluid smell completely different. Transmission oil has a smell that makes me sick...oil well it just smells like oil..kind of sweet with a scent of gas.

Sounds like you have pin pointed the leak at the bottom of the bellhousing. Wipe things down again real good if you still need to double check the location.

stateofidleness 01-22-2012 02:44 PM

well fellas, i started flying the white flag about an hour ago and put the bottom cover panels back on in prep for a tow some time this week.

in looking at it a bit more, the seam between engine and transmission has caked oil on it and now fresh oil from the testing. also, it looks like it's coming from the passenger side mid-transmission area. for instance, the little heat shield on the exhaust pipe behind the cat was smoking during the idle testing (had fluid on it), while the driver's side was PERFECTLY clean. this makes me think it it's not the RMS, but I'm too much of a novice to be definitive...

i'm gonna have it towed this week and ask my indy to diagnose tranny fluid and rms possibility. either way, i'll get it fixed professionally and i'll report back. i hate admitting defeat, but it's outside the realm of expertise... quite frankly, i'm proud that i got the water pump, engine mount, and thermostat replaced without much fuss.

i really do appreciate the help everyone has given, so I will definitely report back so as not to create another "cliffhanger without resolution" thread.

last question: is it safe to drive it about 15 feet to get it out of the garage and positioned for the flatbed?

DenverSteve 01-22-2012 03:28 PM

For what it's worth, it's only a failure if you are a Porsche mechanic and can't figure it out. Additionally, it's probably fine to drive 15 feet, but I wouldn't chance it. The car weighs less than 3,000 pounds and, mine at least, is a breeze to push. I would push it out or let the flat-bed winch it out.

ubii 01-22-2012 03:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paul (Post 275268)
Ubii, how's your AOS? These seals can be popped by excessive crankcase pressure.


Paul,

Those camshaft seals were recently replaced, because I had the engine tore apart to replace some chewed up chain tensioner paddles (see photo below). The car was in the shop at the time getting an IMSR, RMS, and new clutch. They did look at the AOS while it was in the shop and replaced the vent line and bellows, but felt that the AOS itself was ok. Either that seal was not pressed in all the way or the mechanic may have got a bit excessive with the sealant on the camshaft cover and some might be clogging up the oil return. I called the shop, who suggested that I simply replace the seal for now and if it happens again, they will resolve the issue for free.

-ubii


http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01/31327278435.jpg


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