Rotational womp sound
 

Hi Everyone,

I'm continuing to having a rotational "womp womp" sound which is speed dependent and not RPM dependent. The sound is coming from the rear of the car. I thought the say may be due to my rear tires being very worn out, but i've replaced those and the sound still persists... any idea's on what it may be?

Check for a bent rim

Check the rear wheel bearings and the rear CVs first and go from there.

Nope, not bent rim, just had new tires put on and balanced without a problem.

How do I check the rear bearing and cv joint myself?

Jack up the rear of the car.

Do a visual check of the CV boots to see if they are torn. If they are not torn...can you feel grease in the boot or do they feel dry? Anything feel out of sorts when you rotate the rear wheels while feeling the CV and the shaft. Anything dripping, leaking or has anything dripped or leaked in the past? Do the CVs feel like the bolts holding them together are tight (they have been known to loosen).
Turn the wheels to see if you feel any roughness in the bearings on each side, also check for play both top and bottom and left and right. Do you hear a dragging sound coming from anything when you turn the rear wheels?
Do a visual inspection of the rear suspension and brakes, is everything in order? Push/pull everything to see if there is any play in any part of the rear suspension. Is anything lodged in the brakes (small pebbles or rocks, sand anything that could make noise when the wheel turns)?
When you drive does the sound increase, decrease or remain the same if you turn left or right? Does it occur in deceleration, acceleration or in the neutral part of the power band? Does it change when you apply the brakes?

Do all of these things and report back.

My money is on the CV joint.

Just curious, what are cost associated with either of these repairs...

Don't put the cart before the horse. Speculating will only lead to anguish that may or may not be warranted.

Haven't had a chance to jack the car up yet, but paid a little more attention to the noise today. The noise seems to subside or is not as loud when I take right curves. The rotation womp sounds loudest during left curves or weight is on the right rear suspension.

Any additional input on what it may be, do I have to repair/replace in pairs? Cost associated with this repair? Thanks.

Rear wheel bearing
 

What is the year/mileage of your car?

Is your car an S?

FYI regarding your cost questions;Rear bearing is about $50 and labor is about $300-450 a side.

CV joint pricing depends on what you do...R/R a half shaft is $4-500 per side. If you just repack boots you are looking at about half the cost.

If you can do this work yourself you can save big bucks!

03 Boxster S with 75k miles.

Are either of these jobs a DIY? Which of the two do you think it is based upon my description?

Probably both. And these are big jobs, so not DIY unless you are skilled.



The real question is it left rear, right rear or both sides??? I've done both jobs on both sides on my car, and it's incredible how smooth and quiet the car rolls now...






/

Anyone in the southbay wanna make a couple extra hundred bucks? Hehe thanks

i was under my car today bleeding my clutch . i noticed i have a torn outer cv boot do you guys think this is the cause of rear end vibration at 80 mph and up ? what's the best coarse to take to fix. i was looking in the 101 book and this is not looking like a fun job !

You must remove the axle & boot, then clean the CV joint & inspect for wear then replace or repack with grease. If the CV joint is worn it should make noise on hard turns.

If the noise increases with turning then it is likely the wheel bearing, if it was due to acceleration/deceleration then it would suggest CV.

Now the problem is to find out which side. This can be harder than it looks. Feeling for roughness when you turn the wheels while the car is jacked up would be great to run it down but they don't always make noise or feel rough when turned by hand, swerving while driving does not always tell you because you don't know whether it is an inside or outside bearing that is causing the problem. You can listen and try to hear if it is more pronounced on one side or the other. So you must try to nail it down using your senses and some luck. I have gotten it right and wrong in the past. Some folks just do them both to be sure.

x2 Wheel Bearing

I've done both my rear bearings on my 2000S...
 

in the last year, along with all four CV Boots. I had the luxury of a lift and hydraulic press to r/r the bearings. I actually found the CV boot job to be easier and take a little less time (but very messy!).

I can't tell you if you can do this job yourself. There are a few decent DYI instructions on various forums.

I still would suspect your wheel bearing(s).

Can't say about boot, but wheel bearings are very DIY-able if you have the SIR tool.

I did mine.. and I'm in no way skilled mechanically, before buying my boxster I never even popped the hood to see the engine on my other cars.

It takes time, first wheel bearing took almost 6 hours for me, second one about 2hr.

Just take you time and read instructions carefully.. if something doesn't make sense.. re-read instructions.

You can do it

Sasha

Just an update: Got it replaced today and the cabin is soooo quiet now. I would go as car as to say completely silent if I put my car into neutral and I coast. (i have an exhaust). But wow, the car feels brand new!

What did you get replaced? What did the issue end up being?

Right rear bearing... The mechanic showed me the bearing and it had some pits in it which was causing the terrible sound.

Before the fix, I would be afraid of going above 70, because the faster i drove, the louder it got and it sounded scary. Now i can go 80, put it in neutral and it will be completely quiet.

Glad to hear

how much did this end up costing you?
I think I might have the same problem.

I had a bad wheel bearing replaced at a dealership last December. Total bill was $760 which included an alignment.

Wow at the dealership. Not that bad w/ alignment.
Thanks for the info!

Jacabean;

Last summer I drove my 2000S on a 300 drive and for the first time noticed a lot of vibration above 75-80mph that had never been there before.

At my destination, the car had an awful odor that I could not place....but the car was running beautifully and all fluids were intact and at the correct levels. On the subequent drives that weekend and on the trip home, the odor was no longer noticable.

A month after I returned home, I had my car on a lift to change gear oil and saw that I had three torn CV boots and grease everywhere, including the exhaust! I changed all four boots on the car last fall.

Last week was the first occasion to have the car out on the interstate.....no more vibrations noted at speed.

Other disclosure: I do have 4 new tires on the car (no alignment done yet). The old tires had no noticible uneven wear.

Last but not least, spend some time inspecting the inside of the wheel and anywhere it might be rubbing.

My right rear was doing a "whomp-whomp" and it turned out to be the cheap wheel weight that the tire tech attached to the inside of the edge of the wheel. The wheel weight would slightly rub on the shock tower while cornering. All I had to do was to have the wheel rebalanced using the glue on weights that attach in the center of the wheel.

Depending on independant mechanic. My mechanic who only works on Porsche and has a 5 star rating on yelp replaced my right read bearing for about $450 where other local Porsche mechanics were charging $600-750

I ended up bringing it to HRG in lake forest.
They did a great job for around that price.
Now she rides smooth.
Thanks for the info guys!
No more whoomp whoomp noise.