Very nice! Thank you for your feedback.

Again, mine is running perfectly ok as well.

:cheers:

Here's a pic or two. Will have to compile parts list.

You start with a HUGE CONICAL filter…(this was Stage1-notice MAF is by the filter)
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1365553706.jpg

Then move the MAF so that it is practically sitting on the Throttle Body (Stage2) - using the Honeycomb to straighten the airflow before the MAF & TB.
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1365553611.jpg

It is 4" until it drops to 3.5" at TB.

Enjoy! I sure am!

homeboy - do you have that filter enclosed yet? otherwise it's drawing hot air from the engine compartment. I did a quick search and here's some math for you:

http://www.mazda3club.com/showthread.php?t=18386

cool with the half second increase in zero to 60 times. also like the idea of filing the TB; the 1/8" lip on that thing always seemed wrong to me.

Can I ask what are you guys using to connect the intake to the TB? Is there a better option than the flexible hose? I found one on eBay but the guy wants like $250 for a piece of plastic.

Here is how close my MAF is to the Throttle Body…
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1365865599.jpg

Using the Honeycomb filter to straighten the airflow prior to hitting the MAF.
Here is a shot of that:
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1365866108.jpg

@TRK - you got me! No cold air…yet! I have a couple prototypes, like this one….
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1365865769.jpg

Trying to take advantage of the conical shape of the filter.. May have to use a box…the cone thing isn't working. The open end of the cone presses against the firewall for a "sealed" fit.

Here's another view of the HUGE cone intake (HINT: It barely clears the engine bay getting it in)…
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1365865881.jpg

Another view standing up….
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1365865910.jpg

From the inside...
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1365865995.jpg

It still has to be painted, but the design is not perfected….I may regret this but…any suggestions?

Siliconintakes.com has them in a bunch of sizes and flavors. Don't buy that thing on ebay…I have seen it - you CAN DO better.

crikos - I bought a 3.25" to 3" reducing 90 degee elbow. 3.25" over the tb and reduces to 3" at the bend. this allows a fit to the 3" maf housing (or whatever combo of 3" couplers and joiners you use to get to the maf housing); it also provides more clearance from the back of the engine bay.

homeboy - pretty tight in there, huh? i'm currently using the larger of the bmc air boxes with a 3.25" filter. even that doesn't fit well. I bet 4" is tight. one thing that will gain you some room is to remove the insulation on the inside of the engine bay on that side - should buy you 1/2" or so.

another option might be to not mount the filter in parallel with the engine, but rather have the piping do a 90 degree turn into the actual side intake and mount the filter element in the fender well. they are doing this on caymans with a kit from fabspeed:

BGB / Fabspeed Cold Air Intake Install (with Pics) -

you would still probably have to go with a smaller filter, however; I think there would be room in the fender well, but the opening into the engine bay is only *i think* around 3.5".

otherwise, i think you could diy something similar very easy: remove the rubber liner in the fender well, trace the inside flange onto a piece of lexan, drill a 4" (or whatever) hole in it, bolt it in place, mount the air filter through the hole and connect the piping.

Where did this filter box come from?
http://www.mad4wheels.com/webpics/hi...a_010_0738.jpg

Nice! But I would move that MAF closer to the TB….you will be impressed by the better readings. I thought is was hooey at first, but cannot deny the results now!

Also, that is a small filter and it does not have a filter element in the FRONT of the the filter…that is what I was looking for. I just got a JUMBO sized filter - maybe a little too big but I live in Texas, so it is expected!

real nice set up here .

For guys wanting a slight increase without the hassles of changing out plenums, I'm selling a bored OEM TB as I got the wrong one for my Carrera.

http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-parts-sale-wanted/44822-fs-bored-oem-egas-throttle-body.html#post337821

TRK,
4" is VERY TIGHT! In fact, I hate taking it apart because my hands get mangled! I have not resorted to removing the insulation. However, the insulation does deform a little where the intake resides against it.

One of our members has a design that "turns" into the hole in the side of our car....but he said it came at a cost. He had to 'hollow out' part of the passenger area and the noise came in too. Besides, making that 90 degree turn would certainly cause more air turbulence and reduce the overall airflow somewhat...but it would be a 100% Cold Air Intake.

I thought of Lexan too, but the engines temps preclude me from using it. It is just too hot in the engine compartment. I have a bunch of Lexan, plex, etc. laying around from designing Hydrogen units but the temps would be too high for that application. Nothing would be worse than running a day at the track and finding a melted mess of plastic in the engine bay!

Also, I am trying to select a material that can be molded or can be used without square edges - so as not to disrupt the airflow coming in. I have a metal "square box" but am just not happy with how it is finished out....but I guess it IS BETTER than nothing! Especially, based on your calculations, that I am Losing HP running warmer air.

Where did that Cold Air Filter box come from? Was it customer-made? Out of what?

look into making a mold of your air box out sheet foam and clay . then you can make a mold out of that . epoxy resin and glass mat would be a good choice of materials.

O.K. I have this mold, now what?

Beside car...
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1366297962.jpg

Closeup of Side Intake...
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1366297984.jpg

Side of the Side?
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1366298037.jpg

As it would sit in the Engine Bay...
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1366298069.jpg

Even made it flanged, so it could be inserted easily...
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1366298101.jpg

Another view of the flange...
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1366298134.jpg

Bought the glass, and then ran out of time. Later, I realized it was because Fiberglass is not a skill I posses...anyone can help let me know.

But where DID that OTHER FILTER BOX come from?

[QUOTE=Homeboy981;338164]O.K. I have this mold, now what?



Given the title of the thread you are posting in, start a new thread with the appropriate title.

BYProvider, since no one seems to want to answer you, I think I may try. That airbox seems to be the one that comes with something like the few CAIs made for the Boxster. It may very well not be, but that's the first thing that comes to mind for me. Hopefully whoever posted the picture will divulge their source if it isn't a custom part.

there are some good you tube tutorials for making parts . you should get some info. before you try any glass and resin. Looks like what you have now is called a plug . you need to make a mold out of it with a parting line to create two parts . then with that mold you can make your actual part or parts. research before you even think about doing this .

I believe the air filter box is sold by these guys:
Gemballa USA

I used to make similar air boxes back in my mitsu eclipse tuning days. I invented the original kabob skewer contour guide. :cool:

I got it my Cold Airbox to work! I am using ONLY Cold Air and the FULL WIDTH of the side air duct!

The problem the 'other designs' seem to suffer from, IMHO is that they are taking hot air from the top of the engine bay…where it's the hotter than anywhere (due to heat rising). My Stage 2 design suffered horribly from this dilemma. HOT air = BAD, COLD air = GOOD.

This new design (Stage3) employs a simple 'inverted' cone that is inverse of the Cone Air FIlter. Thereby creating an 'air space' the engine can gulp air from. The Stage3 is held in place by the 'friction seal' against the firewall (I will revise this and make tabs to mount). The ONLY SOURCE for air is the 3"X 5" duct - and it uses the WHOLE thing!

Here is a shot of the engine cavity mold, with the Cold Air Intake mold in place.
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1366845064.jpg

Here the airbox is sealing out all the hot air (except this post). Yes, that is duct tape, Needed for this prototype but not used in production.
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1366845142.jpg

Here airbox is connected to the 4" silicone tubing.
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1366845227.jpg

How the airbox seals up against the firewall.
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1366845314.jpg

Here is it in place with NO GAP at the firewall.
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1366845395.jpg

TDK, you were right! It makes a HUGE difference between taking "engine warmed air" and the cold air our cars were destined to run on.

This is the third revision of the original design. There will be another that will have "rabbit ears" on it to mount in the engine bay. This is by far the largest air filter that will fit under the hood. It can take a HUGE GULP of air, with fewer restrictions than the factory. Inspired by watching Eric523!

If anyone is interested…I have a mold to make more! :D

HB; Looks great and trully is a REAL cold air intake!!!!!!

question, Why not give more room between the filter and the engine? Meaning the side of the airbox closest to the engine does not allow a lot of room between filter and airbox wall. wouldnt increasing that gap give the filter potentially more "gulping?" cause as of now you might as well have half a cone since the half in question is trying to suck the airbox wall?

I really hope you understand wtf im trying to say hahah

Some pics of my modded 987 intake box using the 986 MAF housing.

http://i59.tinypic.com/11ka8ph.jpg

I molded the 986 MAF house into the 987 MAF so I can clip it on and off.

http://i59.tinypic.com/2moqzxl.jpg

Used Honeycomb Airflow Straightener so the MAF sensor gets a better reading.

http://i60.tinypic.com/s2z720.jpg

http://i57.tinypic.com/1jn51v.jpg

Intake
 

Nice work KRAM !!!! Much better than my mod. I am trying to feed a 996 3.4
and I still think I need more air flow.



http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1424910674.jpg

I don't think you have anymore room for larger piping lol. That's tight! :eek:

Intake
 

Still have about 1/4 inch left !!!!! MAYBE A 3.6 !!!!!

The area I have circled in red in the pic is just a muffler, right?

I'm planning on removing this. Any downside to doing that other then more intake noise?

http://i58.tinypic.com/ehx4wo.jpg

Hi KRAM36,

this is not a muffler, this is a resonator. And to be exact a Helmholtz resonator. It enhances the acoustic of the engine by reducing oscillations in intake sounds at high rpm. Makes the engine sound more deep and throaty without aggressive peaks at these rpms. Also it optimizes the resonance / air flow. So i would not recommend to remove this part.

Regards from germany
Markus

It just seems to me it would be disruptive to the air flow. If it's just there for sound, I don't think removing it would be harmful, actually I think it would be benefit the air flow.

I'm going to get enough deep and throaty sound by adding the 987 air box.

Hi,

no it's not only for sound. It optimizes the air flow at higher rmps. As far as i understand this cooperates with vario cam system, because it works at 5.000 rpms plus. And it influences the air stream velocity. So this is not only a sound designing tool. And please note that the intake system is optimized with this part, and not without this part.

Please take a look at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Helmholtz_resonance

If you want to remove it, i would recommend to first complete your intake conversion and than do an A/B test with and without. Best would be with an A/B test on a dyno.

meh. if it was important enough they would have put it on more cars. they didn't put one on my 2000 S for example. the theory is that (a) better sound, and (b) air racing down the intake slams into closed valves and creates pressure waves that travel back up the intake, potentially interfering with airflow - the muffler attenuates these waves.

EVERYONE removes it. porsche racing removes it. all aftermarket intakes remove it. i suggest you will see negligible, if any power loss, more than offset by the the other gains you will see.

Thanks TRK. I was hoping you would post on this. :cheers:

Continuous VarioCam came with US MY2003 and the 260 HP Boxster S engine. These engines do have the resonator. But just do what you like.

Good luck.

I like your MAF housing....how did you make it fit up to the 987 air box out let flange? Your air box looks like a work of art....What did you do to it. Its the best looking moded 987 one I have seen so far

My stock 2000 S intake pipe does have a small Helmholtz chamber built into it which I lost upon installing a 74mm TB.

These acoustic devices certainly do have performance enhancing merit. I have seen them in Titanium FI exhaust systems. I would hope that in the case of the Boxster intake pipe that the design intent was a more favourable performance result rather than just a noise reduction effort.

I actually found that I attained better throttle response below 4500 rpm by re-introducing a chamber into the intake tract. I also went from a 3,25" to a 3,0" tract diameter at the same time so perhaps this was the more dominant factor. Anyway this set up seems to work well with the 74mm TB and stock airbox. I measured these effects via 100% throttle position and engine rpm vs. time. Peak HP is a whole other matter!

With the above modifications, I also found that my custom snorkel gave better response above 4K while the stock snorkel slightly improved 3-4K throttle response. Looking at what is termed the "drip tray" on the stock snorkel and the direction of airflow into the side vent, I would guess that the drip tray was actually intended as an airflow director...so I left it on. Sooo if ever I track my Boxster again think I would fit my jaykay snorkel so that I might just pull by that pesky 964 in my run group.....

...yes my air box snorkel tang holes are just about shot!

boxster didn't get variocam+ (continuous variocam) until 2007 (996 got variocam+ in 2002). according to pet, a helmholz chamber was only used on base 986 boxsters; the higher performance 's' models didn't get them *** i stand corrected - my 2000 S did have a small one also!! *** the 987 does have one however it is now located before the maf on the airbox - it is the thing you have to cut off to fit the airbox in the 986. my understanding is that it only has benefits at lower rpm as it contributes to intake pulse tuning; if you can keep it fine, otherwise it is one of the sacrifices you make when building a higher airflow intake.

Thanks. I'm pretty happy with how it came out. I just cut the 987 MAF house, leaving around an inch or more, pulled the wire filter out of it, then used some high strength glue to mount onto the plastic on the 987 MAF house. Filled in the extra area around it with windshield glue. Then I used the plastic iron to melt the 987 MAF house to the 986 MAF house. On the other end I cut the plastic at an angel and use gasket maker to fill that in and coned it to push the air into the 986 MAF house.

This is making me rethink the removal of the Helmholtz chamber. I'm not sure if I'll have the room to leave it on though. You know how tight it is in there when adding the 997 Distribution T. Tomorrow I start the tear down process. Once I get the 987 air box in, knock sensors, starter replaced, 997 Distribution T and 996 76mm TB installed I'll see what I can figure out.

Keep in mind my experiences are with the stock 986 air box. There are quite a few who have lopped the helmholtz chamber on their 987 box ( you have no choice in order to get it in) and seem to getting great results.....even big bores.

The 987 is a lot of work to end up getting bad throttle response....so didn't do it. There are many that now have reported good stuff....I would like some data but hey..

Sorry for the late reply, but that's odd. Got my 987 Air Box, 996 76mm TB, 997 Distribution T and K&N Air Filter installed around 2 or 3 weeks ago. The car has no bad throttle response at all. It's running like a beats right now. Still have my winter tires on which are taller then my summer tires and before on the highway at say 64 mph with the cruise set, the car constantly hunted between 61 to 64 mph. Now she stays right at the speed I set her at. From a stop or rolling, punch to the throttle and she goes like a monster, no hesitation at all.

I couldn't be happier with the air intake mods. I think it put at least 20 hp into the car.

Finally all in with 150 miles on it! Holy crap what a difference. Feels improved throughout entire range. Traction issues in 1st now, occasionally in 2nd even; 3rd and 4th pull HARD on the freeway compared to how they used to.
No real data on anything, sorry. Best I got for you other than butt dyno is this: there is a strip I always floor it along, doing 50 on the dot by the end of it very consistently before this rework. The 2 times I've done it since, I have been at 60 and 63, and that is feathering the traction issue through 1st, which was not an issue before.

***Thanks so much to everyone in this thread that figured all this out!***

Car is a 2000 2.7 5-speed.

Used a K&N filter (no codes), gold wrapped the airbox (no one will see it, and may keep the incoming air a little cooler, so I went for it), kept MAF where it was but added honeycomb, 996TB, 997 plenum.

Other performance mods are Circuit Werks secondary cat deletes, Baluga Racing exhaust, and TechnoPulley.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1429663217.jpg